69 Marshall Small Box Head cab restoration

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by Scumback Speakers, Feb 25, 2009.

  1. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    I've got a 69 50 watt head cab here to restore. Figured I'd better do the usual "restoration" thread for those of you who are inclined to do this to yours.

    This one belongs to a JMP 50 watt, from what I understand. It's got a few issues that I'll go over, how to cut the tolex properly, and how to apply the tolex glue the right way, too. We'll go over the piping and logo installation as well. Basically everything you need to know to recover your own head cab if you want to.

    I've already stripped the cab (50 grit on the belt sander, 36 grit on the sanding block, and you use "Goo Be Gone" one the inside corners/rails for the front and back panels.

    Lots of pics, we'll get started tomorrow around 9 am PST.
     
  2. Jet Troop

    Jet Troop Supporting Member

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    I am looking forward to this!
     
  3. big mike

    big mike Plexi Loving Admin Staff Member

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    Well? It's 5.48 AM in RPV. Get on it.
     
  4. Woozy

    Woozy Member

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    Right on!

    After your 4x12 thread, I have one request about the pics:
    More cabinet, less genitals!

    :rotflmao
     
  5. RussB

    RussB low rent hobbyist Silver Supporting Member

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    subscribing... :)
     
  6. Glide

    Glide Member

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    It starts in 30 minutes and I have to go read to my daughter's class.

    Save a spot for me, Jim - Can't miss this one.
     
  7. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    Hey, I got a lot of good press out of those pics that looked like I was hung like my arm, so you knock it off, mister! :D

    I'm waiting on Fedex to get here with the piping for the cab...whoops I just checked the tracking #...gee...they told me the 26th, now it's pushed back to the 27th. Figures. I hate it when that happens. Well that's crap. Guess I could still do the tolex today, but there won't be any piping instructions till tomorrow. Screw it...I'll just do it all tomorrow, then.

    Tune back in on Friday (Fedex/Mojo/CE Distribution/etc willing!) at 10 am...sorry.
     
  8. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    Decided to get going on this anyway, so here's the starting point. The head
    cab is stripped down to bare wood using 50 grit on a belt sander, then a
    sanding block with 36 and 60 grit is used to strip the inside back corners of
    excess glue. This head cab had been recovered in the wrong tolex with no
    piping so this took some extra work cleaning out two layers of glue and
    assorted gunk.

    So you start with a bare head cab.

    [​IMG]

    I've put glue in the piping channels to keep the tolex firmly glued to the
    insides of the piping channel. When we put the tolex on, we'll use a plastic
    putty knife to wedge in the tolex tight to the piping channel sides, making it
    easier to put in the gold thin piping that will fill these channels later.


    [​IMG]

    This trim painting tool with replaceable sponge heads is used to apply
    tolex glue in the corners where it's hard to reach with the 4" roller.
    This is available at Home Depot for $3, three replacement sponges
    are another $2.

    [​IMG]

    Get the plastic paint tray to fit the 4" roller. You can wash it out with
    soap and warm water and re-use if you do multiple cabs. The roller
    itself is good for one session, sorry, they just don't work right after
    the glue gunks them up so they're a one use roller.

    [​IMG]

    Put the end piece of tolex on first. You'll cut this piece to 11" x 12 1/2".
    After rolling tolex glue on it, it needs 20 minutes to "flash off" or "setup"
    before you can apply it the cab, which you will also have rolled tolex glue
    on 20 minutes before and allowed to setup. The long side goes over the end,
    the short side from back to front. Place this piece in the channel bottom,
    snug to the side closest to the end of cab, then roll it over the end and
    down the other side. Be sure to press out any bubbles as you go. My advice
    is to hold one end and smooth the other end on carefully, as this stuff bonds
    on contact. You can pull it off if you do it quickly if you make a mistake, but
    don't let it set too long or you'll pull up wood layers with it.

    [​IMG]

    Flatten down a couple inches at a time with one hand while holding the
    other end in the air until you're ready to press down some more. You'll
    be able to roll the cabinet since the tolex is sticking to the wood already.
    Smooth it over the other end. There should be about a 3/16" overlap on
    the other side.

    [​IMG]

    Take your putting knife and force the other end in, then
    cut it off down the center of the channel.

    [​IMG]

    Cut the tolex in the corner back to where the rolled edge stops and lays
    flat. You'll want this cut on the very corner to make cleaning up the
    corners easier later.

    [​IMG]

    Pull down the side and cut it off flush with the inside lip of the head cab.

    [​IMG]

    That results in this, a 45 degree angle cut, with the tolex wrapped inside the head cab.

    [​IMG]

    Pull the other piece over and cut if off in the same way.

    [​IMG]

    Cut the edge off even with the previous cut at 45 degrees. You may need to make some small cuts to get it just right. Just go slow and use a really sharp razor blade.

    [​IMG]

    Then put some more glue (or superglue) in the corner before pressing the tolex into place for good.

    [​IMG]

    What your finished corner should look like.

    [​IMG]

    You'll cut the back of the cab's tolex in the same way, at a 45 degree angle.

    [​IMG]

    Looks like my camera auto focused on stuff in the background, so some of these pics aren't as sharp as they could be. Sorry about that!
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2009
  9. RussB

    RussB low rent hobbyist Silver Supporting Member

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    Thank you for taking the time top post this! :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2009
  10. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    Get a bottom or top piece next. These should be cut to 22 1/2" x 11".
    Place these in the piping channel as before and then smooth down the
    tolex to the opposite end. Wedge the tolex in with your putty knife then
    cut off the excess tolex going straight down the channel, as you did on
    the end piece.

    [​IMG]

    Roll the trimmed piece over the lip making sure to smooth out any
    air bubbles and pull the tolex down over the edge to get a tight fit.
    Then press in the tolex with your fingers about a 1/2 inch.
    We'll use the putty knife to push it into the corners for a tight fit.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Staple in your thin gold piping, then pull it tight in the channel,
    smoothing it down flush with the tolex, and staple on the other side.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You'll use this same technique on the front valance with the piping
    down the center from side to side (below where the logo goes).

    It will look like this when you're done.

    [​IMG]

    Put on your bottom piece as you did the top piece, using the same
    technique, then put in your piping in all four channels on the top and
    bottom of the cab and you'll wind up with it looking like this.

    [​IMG]

    I'll continue this tomorrow after the piping has shown up that goes
    around the valance.
     
  11. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    I'm going to put a 6" Marshall gold logo on the head cab valance today. To drill this out properly takes a good layout of the logo pins on cardboard. I've started with a piece of cardboard cut to fit the logo and pins.

    For brevity sake, the logo pins on these newer repro logos are spaced as follows starting from the ruler edge. They are spaced to start with the pin under the "M" on the left side going from left to right to the last L on the logo.

    0 1st pin (Under the M)
    1 1/16" 2nd pin (Under the a)
    2 3/8" 3rd pin (Under the s)
    3 7/16" 4th pin (Under the 2nd a)
    4 5/8" 5th pin (Under the last L)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You'll need a drill and a 1/8" drill bit for the logo pins which are 1/2" long. I'd advise that you put a 2" wide piece of masking tape down on the cab valance, then carefully measure out where the logo looks best to you.

    These older Marshalls varied on where the logo was positioned, so I'll be going with a recommendation from someone who's got an original to measure for me. In the HOM book, it shows these old logos sitting right above the gold piping, but you may want yours (or it's been drilled differently) somewhere else.

    The next step is to place the cardboard template where you want it and drill the holes for it. Then press the logo in gently, about 1/8" at a time until it's fully seated. You could put superglue in the logo pin holes if you want to hold it in place or if you drilled the holes larger than you needed (accidentally I'm sure!).

    I'll show the tolex cuts for the valance later when I complete the piping install around the valance, too.
     
  12. big mike

    big mike Plexi Loving Admin Staff Member

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    Looking good Jimbo.

    Color looks funny though. Black? Really?
     
  13. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    My last nerve...and you show up to trample on it. Have you no respect for your elders, you PITA? :)
     
  14. reddgeetarzan

    reddgeetarzan Supporting Member

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    I was going to go with Sublime Green but Jim talked me out of it....:jo


    LOOKING GOOD MY FRIEND!!!!!
     
  15. big mike

    big mike Plexi Loving Admin Staff Member

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    Everyone knows they sound better in red, orange or purple.

    :D
     
  16. reddgeetarzan

    reddgeetarzan Supporting Member

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    What about Fawn??? Now THAT'S a MAN'S color!!!! :messedup
     
  17. Lespaulsignature 74

    Lespaulsignature 74 Silver Supporting Member

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    Yeah...don't you know that Black Tolex is a tone suck!!!
     
  18. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    I'm setting the remote detonation timer on all of you guy's speakers...sheesh!

    <puts on "Mother" voice from Alien>

    "You now have five minutes to reach a safe distance from your personal Scum explosion. Four fifty nine, four fifty eight..."
     
  19. Woozy

    Woozy Member

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    Ow!!
    Damn, I should've read the FAQs:
    So the warranty covers medical, right?

    -=-

    Nice tolexin' there!
    Thanks for the article.
     
  20. big mike

    big mike Plexi Loving Admin Staff Member

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    I'm telling mrs. Bag on you!!!!
     

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