A Wondrous Adventure: SLO Clone Build (Now with Clips)

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by FourT6and2, Jun 5, 2014.

  1. bob-i

    bob-i Member

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    Just a suggestion. Instead of running the heater buss right through the terminals, run them next to the terminals and wrap a wire around the buss and through the terminal. I had a socket go bad on me and it was a bear to get out, I had to cut the buss in pieces and replace them both.
     
  2. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    lol flat black for me. ;) I keeps it classy.

    Hmm... that is a good suggestion. I think I've seen folks just solder the buss to the lug. No wire, not even through the lug. Not a very good mechanical joint that way, though. I'll think about doing it with a wire though. What about the socket went bad? It's not like the physical socket does anything other than holding the tube in place. Pin broke? Socket itself actually cracked?
     
  3. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    This is how they look after degreasing and lightly sanding with 400 grit. You'd be surprised how much dirt, oil, and grease are on transformers straight from the manufacturer. They probably do that so the iron doesn't rust.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. wizard_23

    wizard_23 Member

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    Interesting. Did you take any shots of the transformer internals/construction?
     
  5. Jason_77

    Jason_77 Member

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    This is going to be good! I'm looking forward to this one!
     
  6. Stonebandit

    Stonebandit Supporting Member

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    Be staying on top of this one. Nice choice of amp! Look forward to the build.
     
  7. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    I didn't. But I can throw a few up tomorrow. Just looks like a normal transformer though. Nothing special about it from what I can tell.
     
  8. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    Paint came out a little on the glossy side. Not sure why. The can said flat black. But whatevs, looks a little better than before :) I should have used VHT Engine Paint. But that **** takes 7 days to cure...

    [​IMG]
     
  9. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    Most of the parts arrived today.

    WOW! The PCB boards from C3 are very nice. I wasn't expecting them to be this good. The only thing that would make them better is if the preamp board's holes were thru-plated. But they are supposed to be true to the real SLO, which doesn't have thru-plating either. The power board is thru-plated with solder pads on both sides of the board. And Rob @ C3 installed some mini turrets in key locations.

    Power tubes didn't survice shipping though. And two of the pots are super-crazy-uber long shaft by mistake. :) Will have to get two correct ones.

    I just got off a plane from the east coast so I'm beat. Pics to come tomorrow!
     
  10. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    here are some parts shots. I didn't take photos of everything. Just a few key items.

    Preamp Board:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Power Board:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Panasonic Filter Caps:

    [​IMG]


    Resistors. I have both Dale/Vishay (I think that's what they are) and PRP. I haven't decided which ones to use yet. But I have some options.

    [​IMG]


    Coupling Caps and such (Sprague 716P and Illinois):

    [​IMG]


    The same blue dipped/molded ceramic disk as used in the real SLO:

    [​IMG]


    Chassis from C3 (very nice!):

    [​IMG]


    Pics of finished power board to come tomorrow morning.
     
  11. eddy999

    eddy999 Member

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    Looks like Rob has changed his PCBs - the ones I got from him were all through-plated, great quality.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. eddy999

    eddy999 Member

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    He also used to supply/recommend F&T filter caps. Did he supply the Panasonic or did you source them?
     
  13. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    Yeah, Rob changed the boards. They are now very much a direct clone of the ones used in the real SLO. The power board is still thru-plated. But the preamp board isn't. Still very high quality as far as I can tell. F&T are nice caps. But the Panasonic are good too and they are also what the real SLO currently uses. But yeah, Rob supplied them. They are rated for 3,000 hours, 105 C, and have an ESR pretty close to the F&T I think. I haven't looked at the data sheet in a while. If I wanted the best, I could have gone with EPCOS. Rated for 10,000 hours! The lugs on the F&T also won't fit standard 10mm hole spacing. I would have had to drill out the holds in the PCB if I used them. So I went with the Panisonics.
     
  14. big mike

    big mike Plexi Loving Admin Staff Member

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    Nice. So forgive me, I'm not up on PCB. Is it more difficult to solder if it's not thru hole PCB?
    Do you ahve to solder from the top instead?
     
  15. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    It's not more difficult hot per se. But it does make for. Better mechanical joint to have more surface area soldered. But the big difference is if/when it comes time to replace components or swap values for mods. Without thru holes you have to pull the entire board to unsolder from the underside. With thru holes you can des older from the top.
     
  16. big mike

    big mike Plexi Loving Admin Staff Member

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    gotcha.

    Seems like they should offer that as standard on teh clone boards..but then again...they're trying for a super accurate clone.

    Appreciate it...pondering an SLO build for myself.
     
  17. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    Power Board is populated. This is fun! If I could just populate PCB boards for a living I would. I could do it all day :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. BoogieEngineer

    BoogieEngineer Member

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    Awesome soldering skills. Can't wait to hear some clips after it's finished.
     
  19. eddy999

    eddy999 Member

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    Yes I like panasonic and epcos caps too - I've used them both in builds and they are cheaper than the F&T. Populating those boards is definitely fun! Nice to have a great quality PCB to work with.
     
  20. FourT6and2

    FourT6and2 Member

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    Yeah, soldering was pretty easy on these things. And the Hakko iron works quite well :)
     

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