Acoustic panels for sliding glass door

Teleking

Silver Supporting Member
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2,919
I’m getting too much leakage out of a sliding glass door. I want to be able to apply and then remove for each rehearsal.
Any suggestions? Has to be able to be removed.
 

Captngeetch

Silver Supporting Member
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910
I made a few out of 1x4’s, thick fabric and Rockwool. They are 2’ x 4’ but you could easily make them 4x8 or 36” x 80” to fit the doors. They would be lightweight and have excellent absorption. The Rockwool is 2” thick and comes in 2’x’4’ pieces and isn’t very expensive. The fabric I bought at a local store. I have them covering a sliding mirror door in my room. I also hung heavy winter curtains over them to make it look nicer



 
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Teleking

Silver Supporting Member
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2,919
I made a few out of 1x4’s, thick fabric and Rockwool. They are 2’ x 4’ but you could easily make them 4x8 or 36” x 80” to fit the doors. They would be lightweight and have excellent absorption. The Rockwool is 2” thick and comes in 2’x’4’ pieces and isn’t very expensive. The fabric I bought at a local store. I have them covering a sliding mirror door in my room. I also hung heavy winter curtains over them to make it look nicer




That's interesting. Where did you find the fabric and the rockwool? So you make the frame by 1X4s, slide the rockwool inside, and then cover it with the frabric? If the rockwool is only 2 inches thick, do they slide around a lot inside the 1X4s?

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

Captngeetch

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
910
That's interesting. Where did you find the fabric and the rockwool? So you make the frame by 1X4s, slide the rockwool inside, and then cover it with the frabric? If the rockwool is only 2 inches thick, do they slide around a lot inside the 1X4s?

Thanks for the suggestions.
The fabric is almost like a felt, I bought it at a local fabric store. After completing the frame and putting the rockwool inside it’s just pulled tight and Stapled around the back. Completely covered on both sides but the staples are on the back and sides. The Rockwool I got from the local Home Depot. I made the frames out of 1x4 spruce (cheaper) and I put two braces in the back. They are screwed in flush so they take up around 3/4 of an inch on the inside. That way it doesn’t flop around inside..plus I made the frames so the rockwool fits snug.

I actually made bass traps and other panels out of foam I had laying around. That’s what I bought the fabric for in the first place. Then decided to make the panels with the left over fabric. They work great
 
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Crowder

Dang Twangler
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19,082
Who is complaining about the noise? Are there particular elements of the sound they say are bothering them, like bass? This is essential to know before you go down the road of buying materials.

As you can see from the Roxul data posted by @Captngeetch most acoustic panels do a fair job on higher freqs but do almost nothing on the low end (noise reduction coefficient of .32 @125hz versus 1.04 @4000hz).

If it's the bass that's annoying the neighbors, panels are going to be a waste of money. I mention this because the bass is what travels a long way and sounds super annoying in isolation. Think of being a bit too far away from a festival stage or standing outside a club. What do you hear? Bass. Bass not only leaks out the glass door, but also leaks through the walls. It is really difficult to contain.
 

Captngeetch

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
910
Agree with Crowder on bass frequencies. Like I mentioned in my first post..the initial reason I bought the fabric was to make bass traps. My room is fully treated, the panels I made were to cover the 6’ sliding mirror closet doors along with the heavy curtains I put up over them. I made 6 bass traps 1’ wide and 2-1/2” long for the corners and areas that needed it, as well as some other foam panels 1’x2’ and 3” thick. The traps I made are being swapped out when the better design ones arrive next week. The ones I made work, but aren’t ideal. The panels for the door did make a huge difference though. My room is dead silent and it works for what I do now days.
 

Teleking

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
2,919
Agree with Crowder on bass frequencies. Like I mentioned in my first post..the initial reason I bought the fabric was to make bass traps. My room is fully treated, the panels I made were to cover the 6’ sliding mirror closet doors along with the heavy curtains I put up over them. I made 6 bass traps 1’ wide and 2-1/2” long for the corners and areas that needed it, as well as some other foam panels 1’x2’ and 3” thick. The traps I made are being swapped out when the better design ones arrive next week. The ones I made work, but aren’t ideal. The panels for the door did make a huge difference though. My room is dead silent and it works for what I do now days.
i've never worked with Rockwool. Is it something that is easily cut? Should be easy enough to make the frames, but worried about cutting the rockwool to fit and then it moving around inside the frame.

Thanks
 

Captngeetch

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
910
i've never worked with Rockwool. Is it something that is easily cut? Should be easy enough to make the frames, but worried about cutting the rockwool to fit and then it moving around inside the frame.

Thanks
it’s like working with Insulation. You cut it very easily with a utility knife. The best way is to lay a piece of the 1x4 across it, press down and cut along the edge.
 

Vcaster

Member
Messages
1,438
i've never worked with Rockwool. Is it something that is easily cut? Should be easy enough to make the frames, but worried about cutting the rockwool to fit. ...
The 10 bucks (was on sale) for this electric carving knife:

https://www.proctorsilex.com/electric-knives

... was my single best expenditure on a tool for the recent build-out of my amateur home recording studio/practice-jam space. Cut through mineral wool like buttah. I installed several hundred linear feet in the rafters.

(And I used the old tried-and-true drywall T-square or 2 x 4 and utility knife technique, as mentioned by @Captngeetch, for the fiberglass and shredded jeans batting insulation I installed in the walls.)

When working with mineral wool and fiberglass be sure to cover all exposed skin and scalp, and to wear eye protection and a dust mask or respirator. Trust me on this :D

... and then it moving around inside the frame.
For this situation ^ I ensured the dimensions of the cut-to-size mineral wool batt made for a tight fit inside the wooden frame of the acoustic panel. Then, I lightly sprayed the inside of the wooden frame with 3M Spray Adhesive, and carefully laid in the batt. Last, I covered the frame with acoustically transparent fabric, pulled it tight and stapled down the material. Worked well. Refer to the video I've linked, below, for a good pulling/stapling technique.

Good luck!

 
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Crowder

Dang Twangler
Messages
19,082
I used a steak knife to cut Roxul Safe'n'Sound. It cuts super easily. It also breaks super easily if it is bent too far. It's harder to keep it from breaking than it is to cut it.
 

Captngeetch

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
910
I used a steak knife to cut Roxul Safe'n'Sound. It cuts super easily. It also breaks super easily if it is bent too far. It's harder to keep it from breaking than it is to cut it.
Lol. Was that the recommended tool ?

I had no issues cutting the Rockwool the way I described. Key is to compress it as much as possible and have a new blade in your utility knife. It cut clean and straight. I like the spray adhesive idea. The cross members I used worked well. I also forgot to mention I put angled pieces in the corners too.
 




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