Advice on possible BF Deluxe Reverb purchase

post a pic of the chassis if you can, I think some folks sub the rec tube for more sag. I would use a GZ34.

 

I can't comment on the value... but the 5Y3 in there, in itself, is not a problem. I would take a look inside the chassis as at that price, you are paying for an unaltered BFDR.

You would simply need to readjust the bias when you revert to a 5AR4/GZ34 recto... assuming no other changes have been made.

 

The 5Y3 draws 2A filament current, same as the GZ34.

It's "dicey" to change rectifier types and not re-bias... but probably no harm done if the amp is still working.

 

I'm no authority, but the value of all amps including the Deluxes have dropped some. I think for a recone and incorrect speaker thats on the high side, but I dont buy and sell good stuff often.

 

I think the 5Y3 has a lower current output than the 5AR4 so no harm to the amp. Less headroom and probably breaks up faster than the 5AR4. Hard to say on the price without
going over the amp and seeing what's what.

 

Hard to tell from thread so far whether you know what to look for in the amp. You want original transformers (check stamped date codes), a fairly unmolested chassis w/ no drilled holes and a bunch of the old blue Mallorys, a good chart, a clean face plate, and decent original tolex. That amp is one of the few vintage Fenders as to which I wouldn't worry about the speaker much. Cause those Oxfords weren't very good. So the question is what's mkt a decent price for a good BFDR. There's probably a difference of opinion, and my number is below alot of asking prices, but I think a fair price is 2k. As above, it would be good to post some pics of the amp unless you know about this stuff.

 

If by C12 you mean a C12N that's a good thing.

 

It's only a problem when switching to a HIGHER rated (lower voltage drop) rectifier. He went the other way.

 

I would need to look at the chassis , if I see blue tubular caps missing, I start to get a bit uncomfortable.

 

Great idea to let your tech have a peak. If it's had a cap job that's a good thing. ALL amps that age that will be played should have one done, otherwise you're risking your investment.

 

Tubes mean nothing. IF the iron is good and there's no cutting/modding, then I'd jump on it and IMMEDIATELY take it to a great AB763 guru like Dave Foxx and have him "do his thang".

 

Agreed, especially if they're old and worn. If they're in good shape they definitely mean something but not compared to having the correct transformers.

I don't know Dave, but Fender handwired amps aren't rocket science. Anyone worth his salt knows what to do.

 

Seems a little high on the price for what you are getting. Basically you are paying a premium for it being a collector's item (because lets face it you don't need to pay that kind of money for the sound it makes).... and a collector wouldn't value it that high with a different speaker, non USA glass, wrong pedal...I'd expect an original cover at that price as well.

Even if it did have all those things. Now you have an amp you can't gig with for fear of damaging and devaluing it. Those amps start to become something totally different from a tool to make music.

 

You can take them out and gig with them, just observe common sense and keep drunks at bay. Besides, anyone who knows anything about amps will think it's just another RI anyway...
Back to the OP, I agree it's a priced little high, but if the chassis checks out with all the blue molded caps and absolutely no mods, 1800-2K is fair these days. Tell him you have to track down a footswitch and a cover...