Best Wood For pedal board (and case) build?

Discussion in 'Effects, Pedals, Strings & Things' started by Muzik4Machines, May 9, 2016.

  1. Muzik4Machines

    Muzik4Machines Member

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    I'm at the stage of buying the wood for the build, and i was wondering what are you guys using?

    i was planning on 3/8 or 1/2 russian birch plywood which is what my brother suggested, but i'm really open to every idea

    the board is 36x18x8 (with a second tier) and will either have a separate case(worst case) or be the bottom of a case (best case, but way more complicated to build especially waterproofing the patchbay part)

    i thought about building it in aluminium, but i think it will be harder and more expensive, especially at 36 inches wide, i would need lots of support trusses and cross beam, making it way heavier

    here's the previous design (so forget the front mismatched angles, i'll go full height till the front)



    and here's exactly how the pedals will go on it (the isolated power will be under the shelf, as will be the talkbox amp (caliber 22) and mic preamp)
     
  2. mamm7215

    mamm7215 Member

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    I used 1x4 and 1x6 (for sides) pine from local Home Depot. Cheap, looks good and lighter than plywood.
     
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  3. Muzik4Machines

    Muzik4Machines Member

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    but what about the board itself, i'm worried it might bend if i don't use super sturdy plywood
     
  4. Chrome Dinette

    Chrome Dinette Member

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  5. 0018g

    0018g Member

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    I made mine out of dimensional pine, and angled the legs on a home made jig on my tablesaw. I think pine will be plenty sturdy at 36"
     
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  6. tanee

    tanee Member

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    depending how you make your board pine may or may not work. If you do use pine I would integrate more support.

    I think any plywood would work.. just get the cheaper pine stuff.
     
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  7. Muzik4Machines

    Muzik4Machines Member

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    thanks, i'm still torn, any other advices?
     
  8. Billy Moss

    Billy Moss Member

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    Yeah, hundred year old Brazilian Rosewood. :drink
     
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  9. Muzik4Machines

    Muzik4Machines Member

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    cause we all know it's really light AND cheap!
     
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  10. bobbyatomic

    bobbyatomic Member

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    After seeing the size it's going to be, I would recommend bricks and mortar.
     
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  11. Cerpin Taxt

    Cerpin Taxt Member

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    In a situation like this, there's really no excuse not to go ahead and invest in a C&C router and carve the whole thing out of one huge block of aluminum. Nothing less will do.
     
  12. rickenbackerkid

    rickenbackerkid Member

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    I think you'll get better tone and resonance from a hardwood such as cocobolo. If you do use plywood, get the void free stuff, or a large portion of your tone will be sucked into the voids
     
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  13. c7sus

    c7sus Member

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    For a 36" span using 1/2" ply you will likely want at least one support if not two. I'm partial to 3/4" shop grade plys and would likely build at least one support under the center with that product.

    The higher-end shops in my area will sell half sheets of shop-grade plywood, but probably not quarter sheets.

    The clear pine product from Home Depot is decent. Poplar is nice too, but it is heavier than pine and most of it has a green or green/tan tint.
     
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  14. Muzik4Machines

    Muzik4Machines Member

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    thanks for the useful information, and ROFLMAO at the others :)

    I don't mind the weight, it's a studio board, it will only move when i move, the live board is small enough for my EHX pedal bag
     
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  15. Bob T.

    Bob T. Member

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    Mahogany with a maple cap is a tried and true combination. Rosewood handles would tame some of the high end response. Otherwise, you may want to consider ebony for the sides.
    :sarcasm
     
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  16. Muzik4Machines

    Muzik4Machines Member

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    i'm surprised nobody suggest morning wood yet
     
  17. Dr.Picklebottom

    Dr.Picklebottom Member

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    id buy a pedal train and never think about it again. expertly made aluminum alloy, cheap for what it is relative to all competitors (assuming your time isnt worthless)

    i cant believe i just watched a time lapse video of someone making a pedalboard out of cardboard.

    good god, good bye tgp.
     
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  18. Muzik4Machines

    Muzik4Machines Member

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    what would you have used to make the cutouts?
    and i will not buy a pedaltrain as i HATE angled boards (and board that have my wha not on the floor +/- 1/2 inch (and i already went this route, and my time is not worthless but i really like building things)
     
  19. GMGM

    GMGM Member

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    Same here. But I couldn't look away. This is a monster!

    OP - Will the upper level have some sort of hinge to access the switches/controls of the lower pedals? What about a loop switcher? I see a reference to a channel selector and a global bypass, but is it your intention to have direct access to each individual pedal with audio passing through each pedal in series? It seems that something like a bypass looper from someone like Loop-master would streamline not only the switching and accessibility, but also clean up the audio path a bit.

    This is ambitious, to say the least. I am humbled.
     
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  20. Muzik4Machines

    Muzik4Machines Member

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    actually the shelf will be hinged for changing pedals, but the switches will not need accessing (and the knobs will be accessible from the back if need be

    the pedals underneath are: the superfuzz and bigmuff from the supermuff bigfuzz (with the ls2 on top to choose 1, 2 or parallel) same for the 2 FZ2, under shelf but the LS2 to choose 1, 2 or parallel on top)

    those 2 LS2 are on a true bypass looper (plus the mammoth) and i also have a channel selector to go from the dirts and fuzz to the "clean" path (dd3 (still wonderng if i should keep it there) the XT2 set to fake a blackface and the GE7 to remove lows and boost highs a bit (all 3 under the shelf, always on)

    there is also 2 DI, a caliber .22 micro amplifier and a mic pre under (talkbox), plus the power

    the front row have all i need to access quickly (wha, fuzzface, channel selector, triple looper, klone and main tempo delay (dd5)

    the shelf have pedals i need to switch, but not while playing (rat, PW2, etc) and the other utilities (tuner, global bypass, EP booster, cheapo pre dirt modulation in case)

    i'm still thinking about a loop switcher, but beside a switchblade, with my ****ed up signal path none of them would do (and i kinda don't want to re buy a switchblade and go back to roadcase full of pedals, that's why i'm building a board)

    i might be able to shave 6 inches on the width if I let go of the rotary and slicer, but damn it, i like those a lot, tho the depth and height are pretty set if i want to DI and PSU to live there)

    I was thinking since the bottom will always be on the floor it won't bend even at 1/2 inch, and the shelf will have 1 full width support on the back for the hinge and legs in the front (1 behing the wha, 1 between the 2 loopers, 2 other farther left between the power cables of the front row pedals, 1/2 inche should be enough

    The sides, back and top of the case i my use 3/4 to make sure it's really solid for the 2 times a year i will actually carry it (like moving to a new house)

    i also have a small live board with just 4-5 pedals (including the WP20g hex synth) for jam sessions/fun time since i don't plan on ever touring as a guitar player again


    and if you think this is overkill, you should see what i gig with for my electronic shows, so many patchbays and MIDI routing i need a binder to remember it all lol


    signal path will be as follow

    guitar - DI - master bypass looper input - EP booster

    in the loop:
    Cheap modulation - clean/dirty looper - Insert for the talkbox - RT20 - SL-20 - DD5

    Clean/dirty looper
    clean channel: DD3 (slapback) - XT2 - GE7
    Dirty channel:Volume - Fuzz face - triple looper (1 supermuff bigfuzz // 2 hyper fuzz squared // 3 wooly mammoth clone) - Rat - Crybaby from hell - PW2 (still not sure if i keep it, sounds pretty much the same as the turbo rat ans is noisy as hell) - klone

    so basically i can have direct guitar to amp (with ep booster) sat the push of a button, and i bypass most Boss buffers with the TB looper (except in the "clean" but i don't care, it still sounds good) and in the dirty side my first buffer is the wha, and it's pretty good sounding)

    also, for the people talking about wood color, it doesn't really matter as it will be painted black anyway
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2016

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