BK Butler TubeDriver Owners/Techs Please Help- Mine not working - switch problem?

Discussion in 'Effects, Pedals, Strings & Things' started by GASaholic, Feb 14, 2012.

  1. GASaholic

    GASaholic Member

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    Hi all
    I bought a BK Butler Tube Driver (henceforth referred to as BKBTD) second hand but when it arrived it wasn't working! Now I had been looking for one for a while so I want to try to repair it. I'm not an electronics whizz so I'm asking for help. (Please this isn't a thread about what i should do to the dishonest seller - technical opinions only if you care to comment)

    I'll detail the sympoms:
    All LED indicators work
    I plugged it in first. Effect off - clean signal passed
    Effect on - no sound except a very low 'farting' noise for a second if I struck a few strings hard.

    I opened it up hoping to see something obvious like a loose wire - nothing obvious. Checked the tube to see if was loose - it wasn't (there is silicon I think, creating a holding seal around half the bottom. Plugged the effect in with the pedal open so I could see if the tube was 'on' and saw the tube's plates low glow so I presume the tube is ok.

    Put the back back on the pedal and plugged it in in again and nothing. Not even a clean signal. (LED's still work though)

    So I've read various builders/techs say 90% of pedal problems are a faulty switch. I got out my Fluke multimeter and checked the terminals for continuity after researching online (cables still soldered onto the terminals)

    I knocked this up on Microsoft Paint. The diagram below shows where I got continuity (indicated by connecting blue lines) between terminals in the On/Off positions. I've also shown the ohm readings I got between each terminal beside each blue line.
    The short colored lines coming out of each terminal represent each cable soldered to each respective terminal - color correct.

    The diagram below the BKBTD switch is a regular DPDT switch, again the terminals with continuity between positions ON/Off indicated with the same blue line.

    The BKBTD terminals which have continuity show differently to a standard DPDT switch. There are no short bridging cables connecting any terminals on the BKBTD that might be obviously making the extra connections.

    My request is can any other BKBTD owners check if they get the same continuity readings between the switch terminals? I don't know if I am getting the extra continuity between the terminals through the circuit at the board which I can't follow, or if the switch is broken and is responsible for this.
    If it's the switch that's a simple fix. I'll just find someone who has a soldering iron and can solder. if not I'll have to try to contact Mr Butler himself, and see if he can repair it.
    Any pedal techs are welcome to profer their opinion also.
    I hope I made everything clear, albeit longwinded, in text and illustrations.

    Thanks in advance for any effort made to help/advise, it will be greatly appreciated.


    *tl;dr - should the terminals of a DPDT switch from a BK Butler Tube Driver in the diagram below have continuity between them where indicated by blue lines, while connected into the pedal?




    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2012
  2. GASaholic

    GASaholic Member

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    Also photo's of the back of the switch

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. GASaholic

    GASaholic Member

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    Bump for the US crowd
     
  4. Dog Boy

    Dog Boy Member

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    I wouldn't assume the tube is ok. Its simple to check.
     
  5. GASaholic

    GASaholic Member

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    I don't have another 12AX7 tube to change out. How would I check the tube?
     
  6. GASaholic

    GASaholic Member

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    Surely there are some Tube Driver people out there that can help me out?
     
  7. GASaholic

    GASaholic Member

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  8. mondo500

    mondo500 Member

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    Sorry I can't help, but do you have any tubes in an amp that you could pull out just to test? 12at7, 12au7 and 12ax7 will all work in a BK Butler pedal — many users prefer the lower gain of the -at and -au.
     
  9. Dashface

    Dashface Member

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    Exactly. You must have a tube amp hanging around. Pull a pre-amp tube.
     
  10. Deck

    Deck Member

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    The footswitch looks different than the stock ones I had in my TDs.
    I bought two of them to Bk.Butler, but both switches died two months after the purchase. He sent me three new footswitches - same models - which also died quickly.

    The one in your pedal looks different. Either Butler found another model, or it has been replaced with this one.

    I agree with everything that has been said here: try to get another 12ax7 tube to see if the stock one is the faulty.
     
  11. kakev

    kakev Member

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    Same here, original switch went south, butler sent me new, but it was different. Maybe one like in the pics, can't remember. One thing i remember about the switch: the lugs didnt have holes for the wires, little PITA to install.

    What i would do is externally switch on with jumper wires (or alligator clips) just to see if the switch is faulty or not. Use 2 wires to make connections between poles 3-1(or 5) and 4-2(or 6). If it works this way replace switch. If you're not getting even clean signal through it must be jacks, wires or the switch or any joint between those.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2012

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