Technically yes, but when a power tube goes bad, unless it's a sudden early death, it usually is due to cumulative wear. The other pair is very likely to benefit from a swap to.Thanks so much for getting back to me! I can confirm that when you run it in 2-tube mode you only need the inner tubes (Jeff Genzler clarified that in a response years ago, link if you're interested).
So, for example, if I only had one bad power tube, and it was one of the outer ones, I could replace only the outer tubes with a matched pair and that would be fine?
That makes total sense, thanks for the addTechnically yes, but when a power tube goes bad, unless it's a sudden early death, it usually is due to cumulative wear. The other pair is very likely to benefit from a swap to.
Unless your valves are 6 months old and have barely been played, I would look to replace the quartet myself.
Peterm, you are in university/research academia aren't you?Hi Everyone,
I've been putting together a sort of user's guide for the amp for myself, and it seemed like it might be worth sharing, so I cleaned it up and you can check out my first pass here (in two formats): Word, PDF. I'd view it in Word if you can, since I couldn't get the hyperlinks to work in the PDF...
It's LONG -- 33 pages, plus a 7-page appendix (just a TDPRI post from @Les Paul Lover copied in case the photos stop working), but it includes a one-page summary of what I consider the most interesting and/or important points (on p.2). I've copied that summary below, as well as the guide's Table of Contents below it.
If anyone's open to giving me feedback on it I'd be thrilled to fix anything I've messed up, etc., just send it over however's easiest. I'm also going to send it to Jeff Genzler (and maybe Andy Fields) to see if they're open to providing any feedback.
I could also copy the sections into individual posts if y'all thought that would be helpful (at least it'd be more searchable), but I didn't want to flood the thread unless people thought that was a good idea. Let me know.
I'm going to ~replicate this post over on the Black Pearl Pirate's Den thread on TDPRI as well.
Thanks to everyone for being so helpful over the years! And thanks especially to @ruger9 , who by my various estimates contributed 19%-24% of all information across the TDPRI and TGP owners club threads!
Summary of Most Helpful Items (p. 2 of the guide)
- Genz Benz Contact Info: this section in the document contains contact info for Jeff Genzler and Andy Fields if you need to contact someone from Genz Benz (e.g., for a repair question)
- Manual & Schematic: here are links to the Manual and Schematic (via here)
- Powering Amp On: when turning the amp on, let it warm up in standby mode for at least 30 seconds to prevent cathode stripping and extend power tube life
- Tone: some find the Boost too bright; you can increase the value of cap C6 to let more lows and low-mids through (stock is 0.0047uF)
- Replacement Footswitch: Can use any footswitch that shorts a mono cable tip to sleeve
- Tone: the reverb is dark and cavernous, and does not sound like a Fender spring reverb
- Jon Dickinson at Dickinson amps in South London modded [rze99]’s BP30 to make the reverb “bright and lush”, probably by removing C26, C28, or both
- Feedback: you can get feedback within the reverb circuit at high Master Volume settings and Reverb above ~2 o’clock; reduce Master Volume and/or Reverb levels to mitigate
- Replacement Reverb Tank Part #’s:
- Accutronics 9FB1C1D (initial production pan)
- Ruby RRVL3FB1C1D (subsequent production pan)
- amprepairparts.com part # 4FB2C1D (Fender-recommended alternative)
- Master Volume: amp can become very bright when Master Volume is above ~1 o’clock
- V2: only use Chinese tubes (e.g., Ruby) in V2 – half of V2 is a cathode follower, and Russian (and possibly Czech) do not function well in this application
- Rectifier: broad support for using any NOS rectifier
- Effects Loop:
- Designed for line-level effects (e.g., rack effects, outboard effects)
- Requires a line level shifter to run typical effects pedals
- Speakers: the stock Red Fang takes ~20-40 hours to break in
- Amp Troubleshooting and Repair Tips:
- Commonly noted causes of amp problems include:
- Bad power tubes
- Bad pots and solder joints, with bad solder joints often being near pots
- Blown fuses – typically a symptom of other issue(s) (e.g., bad power tubes)
- The choke coming unscrewed from the chassis
- Commonly noted solutions you can try before taking the amp to a tech include:
- Let the amp warm up in standby for a few minutes before powering on
- If fuse is blown, replace it – see note on replacement fuses at [10.c] below
- Try replacing the power, rectifier, and/or preamp tubes, likely in that order
- Clean the inside of the chassis and pots w/ compressed air and/or detox
- Genz Benz recommends increasing the fuse value to either 1.5 or 2.5 Amps (not sure which) when replacing; later production amps may already have this higher fuse value
User Guide Table of Contents
- Genz Benz Company & Brand History
- Genz Benz Team and Contact Information
- Misc. Amp Details (Release Date, Measured Wattage, etc.)
- Comparisons to Other Amps
- Manual & Schematic
- Powering Amp On
- Voicing Switch
- Master Volume
- Effects Loop
- Speakers & Cabinets
- Speaker-Compensated Line-Out
- Volume and Headroom
- Configuration Sound Differences
- Amp Troubleshooting and Repair Tips
- Shipping and Transport
- Amp Clones and Digital Models
- Trivia and/or TGP/TDPRI folklore
- Appendix – [Les Paul Lover] Post with Loose Choke and QC Date Photos
Ha! I'm not not in academia, but I do try to pursue as accurate and neutral an understanding of the truth and reality as I can in most everything... and all to frequently when i re-read references I realize I've misrepresented things a little, hence the references...Peterm, you are in university/research academia aren't you?
This is thorough and well referenced.
I enjoyed the section about valves a lot. Useful to read all of various users preferred valves without judgement, or what valves didn't work for various users.
There really is no consensus. Tone is in the ears of the player.
By the way, as you noted, I can confirm all the ruby valves in my BP30 were sovtek. All of them. Just prechecked by ruby for obvious failures I presume.
I was impressed by the ECC83 actually. Top pick outside of NOS valves I've had.
Really pretty well. I think mine (made in 2008 so early run) is great. Beside a lose choke when I bought it 3rd hand, no technical issue yet, and the capacitor should be good for another 10 to 15 years before needing preventative replacement.I was looking at these on Reverb recently. How are they holding up with age?
To be honest, it really depends on how long your document will be available for at the link provided.Ha! I'm not not in academia, but I do try to pursue as accurate and neutral an understanding of the truth and reality as I can in most everything... and all to frequently when i re-read references I realize I've misrepresented things a little, hence the references...
Thanks for the tip on your ruby tubes. I'll add your comments into my document and re-upload at some point in the future. It does seem like the answer is to put the guide in a Google doc and just work through the formatting issues...
You have an opinion on posting the sections directly in the thread as individual posts?