Blocking The Tremolo On A Strat !!!!! Where to buy hardwood?

Discussion in 'Guitars in General' started by Jawsjr2, Aug 20, 2008.

  1. Jawsjr2

    Jawsjr2 Supporting Member

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    Does anyone know where I can buy a piece of hardwood (Maple or Mahogany) to block the tremolo in my Strats? I never use the trem and am fed up with my low E going flat when I do double-stop bends?

    Someone must make and sell these somewhere?
     
  2. devilrob1979

    devilrob1979 Member

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    You can make it yourself out of any piece of scrap you find lying around just make sure can get it out without damage when you're done.
     
  3. GibbyFan

    GibbyFan Member

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    Be resourceful. I used a brass striker plate from a door. Worked like a charm and can be easily removed if needed. It fit right in the cavity perfectly.
     
  4. angelo

    angelo Member

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    Now, knowing a risk involved, there is another way.

    On all my strats, I have simply gone 5 springs and tighten that claw as far as needed. Rather than the block going against the wood in the cavity, it is the TOP of the trem sitting flush against the top of the guitar. I personally feel, the string vibration transfer is much better (tried the "normal" way on one, then did it this way - big difference to me).

    THe risk is that the trem sitting on the top can potentially mar the finish. I never worried about that and haven't noticed any problems. But I don't care about a scratch or chip like that to be honest....
     
  5. frank62

    frank62 Member

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    You don't need a block. Put all 5 springs in it and tighten them until the bridge is flush with the body. You will get better sustain like this over using a piece of wood in there.
     
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  6. Strat81

    Strat81 Member

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    You could crank down the claw, untill it's flush, but you may run into issues with the action being to low and not enough saddle screw travel to compensate, if your guitar is anything like mine. YMMV
     
  7. guitarman_nebr

    guitarman_nebr Supporting Member

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    try a Tremel-no. quick and easy install.

    this allows you to lock the trem for use as a "hardtail", you can set it for dive only to return at a locked in zero point, or go fully floating.

    i love it and no wood to block with and your trem is still useable if you want it.
     
  8. skydog

    skydog Supporting Member

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    PM me your address, and I'll send you one. (yellow pine)
     
  9. John Coloccia

    John Coloccia Cold Supporting Member

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    I just put lots'o'springs and crank the claw too.
     
  10. walterw

    walterw Gold Supporting Member

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    +1 to skipping the wood blocks. there's no need for them, and jamming a piece of wood in there just lifts the thing off the 6 screws it's supposed to press against.

    crank the claw down, add a spring or two, and adjust the 6 screws so that the plate sits flat on the body. that's all you need to do.
     
  11. pennylink

    pennylink Member

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    If you absolutely want to block it with a piece of wood it doesn't have to be hardwood. It can be any old scrap. Besides, wood such as pine is much easier to work and shape than hardwood.
     
  12. Jawsjr2

    Jawsjr2 Supporting Member

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    I was told that you DO want to use hardwood vs soft such as Pine. Hardwood will give you much better sustain. Kind of like the Callaham steel trem block over regular zinc will give you better sustain and clarity.

    In terms of adding springs and tightening claw screws, I've been told that that can throw off your intonation and such.
     
  13. OminousPoultry

    OminousPoultry Member

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    ahem....you're going to have to re-intonate if you block the trem fully anyway.....
     
  14. TooManyHobbies

    TooManyHobbies Member

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    TREMOL-NO. Be all end all.
     
  15. PFCG

    PFCG Member

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    use a 9 volt battery its the best!
     
  16. Kelsey

    Kelsey Member

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    I replied to your other thread with the method my guitar tech has used successfully, including on my AmDlx and AmSe Strats.
     
  17. mistercoffee1

    mistercoffee1 Member

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    For those that don't use a block, but rather crank the claw down and use 5 springs and set the bridge flush against the body:

    Did you find that the neck had to be shimmed because the action became too low even when raising the bridge saddles?
    I've been wanting to do that since I don't really use the bar.
     
  18. John Coloccia

    John Coloccia Cold Supporting Member

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    I personally never had a problem. The saddles don't really move that much unless you have the bridge set really high to begin with. I did have to raise the saddles a little, and the intonation certainly changes as well (it'll go flat).
     
  19. hudpucker

    hudpucker Supporting Member

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    I strongly disagree.


    I once put a pine block into one of my strats and it sounded much worse afterwards. I then replaced it with a good piece of hardwood and the tonal difference was like night and day.

    My bandmates called the pine block the 'tonesucker.'
     
  20. TooManyHobbies

    TooManyHobbies Member

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    Batteries leak.. I would seriously advise against that.
     

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