Burned by Precision Guitar Kits

I'll say first, I have one other PGK that is excellent. This one, a complete mess.

So i bought a tele thinline looooooong ago. It took a while for my friend to paint it etc... So this has been a few years in the making because, well, stuff happens. Anyway, I've tried american hardware, I've tried metric. All the holes for the bridge are off. With American hardware the low E is barely on the board, with metric, the low E is off the board.
The bridge pickup slot is so tight that the pickup can't move properly, so I'll have to go in and route that better.
The actual top itself is too thick for the pickup selector. So the plastic knob pops off when going from the bridge to neck selection. If I add a control plate over the area the problem becomes even worse.
It's a $350+ kit that is useless at this point. I make a decent amount of money, so when you factor in my hourly take home pay that I'll have to invest my time into getting this thing working properly, I could have just bought an "off the shelf" top of the line fender and probably saved money. Just a total mess as my friend did an amazing job with the paint on this.
Looking for sympathy? Nahhh. Putting them on blast? Kinda. I don't know who did the QC on this, but they screwed up royally.
 

cap10kirk

Member
This is why I always put everything together and make sure it's right when I first get parts. Then it comes back apart for paint. That way if something is wrong, I can take care of it immediately...instead of being stuck with something that's wrong and not realizing it until it's too late to fix the issue. Taking 10-15 minutes to test fit parts when you first got the kit would have saved you a lot of time and trouble.
 
Did you contact them and let them know of all these problems before putting this on the Internet?
I contacted them about sending a 21 fret neck instead of the 22 fret. That was their chance to make things right. They basically shrugged their shoulders and I decided it would be fine. All of the current issues are a bridge too far and I decided to post this. As said in the opener, I do have one other PGK that is excellent... This one is possibly going on the scrap heap.
 
Parts, assembly, setup, then to finishing, reassembly, final setup, rock. Don't follow this process and...

Sorry for the troubles, I’ll bet it could be salvaged w some creative works.

Good luck!
All the medical stuff would be under the bridge assembly... So it'll be ugly, but doable. I can sort out longer shafts on the pots and pickup selector more than likely. If I can be everyone else's cautionary tale, it'll be worth it, ha!
 

Rod

Tone is Paramount
I contacted them about sending a 21 fret neck instead of the 22 fret. That was their chance to make things right. They basically shrugged their shoulders and I decided it would be fine. All of the current issues are a bridge too far and I decided to post this. As said in the opener, I do have one other PGK that is excellent... This one is possibly going on the scrap heap.
I contacted them about sending a 21 fret neck instead of the 22 fret. That was their chance to make things right. They basically shrugged their shoulders and I decided it would be fine. All of the current issues are a bridge too far and I decided to post this. As said in the opener, I do have one other PGK that is excellent... This one is possibly going on the scrap heap.
I hear you.... good to know....
 

Guitarworks

Member
Not really understanding how you got “burned”. Making the E strings fall in the correct places on the board is just a matter of giving the neck a pull; this has to be done on a number of Fenders. For the bridge holes, take some measurements, purchase a bridge that fits. Hardware manufacturers make a variety of bridges with different spacing; it’s not necessarily a this-or-that proposition. There is no one single ‘American’ or one single ‘Metric’ bridge unit that it must be. If the precision-cut bridge pickup cavity is feeling tight, maybe your hardware is not positioned correctly. Maybe move the hardware 1/32” forward or back. Guitars are not snap-together model kits; they require test-fitting and a little persuasion sometimes. The switch problem, I’m having trouble envisioning, since the switch on a tele thinline is mounted to the guard. I don’t see what Precision could’ve done to screw that up; they’re just routing a big cavity underneath. Not seeing how this build is a “complete mess”. Maybe post some photos to help clear up any confusion.
 

joelster

Silver Supporting Member
So... ‘A few years’ ago you bought a kit from these guys and you are just now figuring out that your hardware doesn’t fit? I think you got burned by you. And what does swapping the neck have to do with anything? They have no obligations to you after that much time.

Oh, and IBTL.
 
Not really understanding how you got “burned”. Making the E strings fall in the correct places on the board is just a matter of giving the neck a pull; this has to be done on a number of Fenders. For the bridge holes, take some measurements, purchase a bridge that fits. Hardware manufacturers make a variety of bridges with different spacing; it’s not necessarily a this-or-that proposition. There is no one single ‘American’ or one single ‘Metric’ bridge unit that it must be. If the precision-cut bridge pickup cavity is feeling tight, maybe your hardware is not positioned correctly. Maybe move the hardware 1/32” forward or back. Guitars are not snap-together model kits; they require test-fitting and a little persuasion sometimes. The switch problem, I’m having trouble envisioning, since the switch on a tele thinline is mounted to the guard. I don’t see what Precision could’ve done to screw that up; they’re just routing a big cavity underneath. Not seeing how this build is a “complete mess”. Maybe post some photos to help clear up any confusion.
When they pre-drill all of the holes for you and they don't line up with being able to properly get the low E string on the fretboard, how are you supposed to move things back and forth? The "persuasion" here is going to be filling in all of the holes and drilling again. I'm not as concerned with the control cavity as I can just sand down the inside of the cavity to make things fit, but once again, more time invested on a kit that probably shouldn't have left their warehouse at the time.

So... ‘A few years’ ago you bought a kit from these guys and you are just now figuring out that your hardware doesn’t fit? I think you got burned by you. And what does swapping the neck have to do with anything? They have no obligations to you after that much time.
The description, and what I ordered at the time, was a 22 fret neck. They sent a 21. I contacted them about this immediately afterwards and they would not send a different neck. I said screw it, I'll be fine with 21. And it is fine, but it is one more issue with this entire build. I'm also not really asking anything of them as, I agree, their obligation is done. However, absolutely no part of the body of this kit is seeming to be spec'd properly. (and as far as the neck is concerned, it's a really nicely done neck carve and excellent fret job. So like my other PGK guitar, that is as expected)
 

Fitzer

Supporting Member
You were not burned. You waited 3 years, found out your parts don't fit, asked for a new neck for some reason along the way, and you're now slandering the company's reputation publicly. It sucks your parts didn't fit, but that is on you to figure out and then contact right away for assistance or to see if you can make it work yourself. You didn't do that until years after the purchase. That is not their fault and this thread ain't cool. I'm not affiliated with them.
 
You mentioned trying metric and American bridges but there are more types than that. Depending on type, your American could have string spacing as wide as 2-1/4". A humbucker spaced bridge (Warmoth has one for $40) brings the spacing down to 2-1/8". Hipshot offers a 2.08", and Callaham offers a little more narrow still at 2-1/16".
 

Germi

Member
Anyway, I've tried american hardware, I've tried metric. All the holes for the bridge are off. With American hardware the low E is barely on the board, with metric, the low E is off the board.
Isn't the metric spacing typically narrower?
I like this page for comparison:
https://www.callahamguitars.com/tech_compatibility_strat.htm
Seems odd that the low e with metric would be even further off the board.

Bump that neck over to the treble side help any?
Doesn't help with the bridge pickup slot though, I know...
 
Last edited:

drbob1

Silver Supporting Member
So, this is a solid top guitar that's not designed to have a pick guard-the controls go thru holes in the body? A picture would have helped to clarify that and probably done more to get people on the same page.

It'd also be worth seeing a picture for the "string falling off the side of the board" problem-that can be holes drilled wrong, but it can also be the paint or general direction of the neck cavity favoring the neck being deviated a little to the treble side. As someone else mentioned, snugging down the neck plate then bumping the headstock to the treble side and tightening it down the rest of the way MAY fix that problem. Could you take a picture of the assembled guitar from the bridge end showing bridge and strings going up say 1/2 the neck?
 


Trending Topics

Top