Discussion in 'Guitars in General' started by Killcrop, Jan 3, 2006.
Bill really talks this bridge up on his website. Before I get sucked in is it really all that?
Which one? I got a 3 barrel direct fit assembly to replace the 6 saddle that came on my Am. Deluxe Tele. Made a very noticable difference in sustain and resonant qualities. If that's the one you're asking about, I strongly recommend it.
Yes, they are. Probably the best currently available, along with Barden and Vintique. They do sound different than the stock Fender however. Generally more sustain, but less twang. The saddles are excellent, everything fits and adjusts perfectly, with no adjustment screws sticking out.
I have a set of his steel intonated saddles on a guitar & they sound great.
Have one- very high quality & good sustain, but: the angle of the E/a saddle was too extreme to intonate properly. Had to replace it with a Stew-Mac piece, which is how it sits tonight.
Yeah, they're pretty sick....I've got the version with the six individual saddles. Really really nice bridge, heaps better than a stock Fender bridge....
I've got the vintage brass 3 barrel and it is all that and a bag a chips...more sustain/volumn and rounder tones with less plink-plink to the notes...IMO one of the best tontal investments I have made...I also use his strat Block/bridge/saddles and feel the same way about it...
Glad to see this thread. I'm local to Bill and have been thinking of picking up the 3 barrel for my AM standard. I'm also going to ask about a custom control plate as well...
I put one on an am. dlx. and I am thrilled with it. ( + a set of Lollar specials) bridge p-up rocks with the corsa.
Folks also like the more expensive Glendale as well.
I guess I'll be the sole cautionary voice here. And not cautionary to Callaham per se, their products are fine, but to Tele bridge "upgrades," generally.
When I first copped my '52 RI, I immediately switched to a Vintique stainless steel bridge because "it's the best, right?" Well, it did change the tones and not entirely for the better. Two years later, I finally returned the super cheapo stock pressed metal magnetic Fender bridge. And you know what? It improved the guitar's tone.
That bridge is still on the guitar today, the only changes are that Phil Jacobby - www.philtone.com - removed half of the lower lip to facilitate my chicken pickin' and drilled the neck side of the bridge for a pair of wood screws (both just like on the Vintique bridge).
Disclaimer: Discussing Tele preferences is probably as close to discussing religion as you can get on a guitar forum. I see that glendaleguitars offers both magnetic and non-magnetic replacement bridges. These are just my preferences. Others may vary and that's great.
+1000 Callaham user with both Strat and tele replacement bridges, same experience as Seegs, better tone, more volume from the guitar, more resonance, more sustain, better defined low end with snap, not muddy sounding, fuller sounding treble, less plinking sounding and sweeter etc... There really is no reason to leave your old stuff on the guitar unless it was made prior to when they started using cheaper materials for these components.
I've used Callaham bridge and hardware on a project and I really liked their stuff and the project came out great, but don't know how the Callaham would compare to stock Fender ...
I'm ready to jump on an AMS tele bridge replacement with the 3-barrel saddles. The reviews received here have only furthered my desire to replace the current USA bridge on mine right now.
I was also thinkin' about swapping the control plate for Callaham's pre-wired assembly. Is that a good investment, and does it make a considerable difference in sound, volume roll-off, etc.?
Boy Jon....I could not have said it better myself! Teles ( as other guitars ) are highly personal and what one likes another will not. I have spoken with 2-3 players who bought and installed Vitique/Callaham bridges only to switch back to stock. They had nothing but compliments on the quality, but preferred the tone of the stock bridge. Since I play mostly blues on my tele, the Callaham would probably fit my needs to a T. However, being the cheap ass I am, the stock one will suffice!
If you have no problems -w- intonation and it is stock...........leave it be
If it is on a Nocaster or CS series leave it. I never minded the screws
sticking out. I kinda liked the dried blood on the body and bridge and got used to the hole in my palm. Almost matched the one in my head!!!!!
Where do the Wilkinson bridge plates rate among those mentioned here?
Hi guys, a long time '52 reissue / Nocaster GAS victim here...
I've wondered about the intonation with the three saddle brass bridge which I'd really like to stick to 'cause I've read so many times that brass sounds great... How are the intonated replacement saddles? How do they work, can you adjust the intonation somehow, 'cause I've seen saddles that are just angled and wonder how this could work since the gauge of strings has a huge impact ofcourse and so does the relief and so on.
I use 10-52 strings and cant quite get used to 10-46 as are used on the '52 tele and custom shop models as well.
Could someone explain this to me in a real "intonated saddles for dummies" manner? Thanks!
Right now, I use Glendale compensated saddles on each of my Teles. In the past, on other Teles, I've used other makers' compensated saddles -- MannMade, and whatever compensated saddles Fender installed on the original Relic Nocasters. (I had a Cunetto Relic that came, stock, with compensated saddles.) All of these intonated perfectly, and they'll do so with just about any normal string set. While the 10-52 is not exactly abnormal, it might not work with the typical set of compensated saddles. Glendale offers a different formula for those out-sized gauges. Their "Wide-Intone" version provides a different saddle angle for the low E/A strings. This ought to do the trick.
I wonder whether a Glendale/Callaham bridge would have any advantage over a Fender vintage reissue bridge if the Fender bridge were modified to a) have compensated saddles, b) lower part of plate removed to increase fingerpicking access, and c) two screws added at the front of the bridge plate to increase the contact between plate and body?
I'm planning on buying a Muddy Waters Tele which comes with a vintage bridge. Music One Workshop, in Montana, will modify the stock bridge to do a) - c) above for $75. If it's all the same, I'll have them do the mod since they also set up the guitar at the same time. Anything I would be missing by not getting the Glendale/Callaham?