Cavity shielding - always necessary ?

vortexxxx

Supporting Member
Messages
10,076
that's a hell of a guitar to "completely forget you have"!

you should just send it to me.
It's actually a very nice guitar. I bought it from the forum on a whim because I had never seen one of there before. I was going to show the back as well but I chose the wrong picture. When you guys were talking about aluminum guitars, I was imagining some of the all-aluminum ones. I think one brand was called Normandy.

It plays great and it has a very nice neck. I never set it up yet, so it might sound better set up with new strings. The pickups are Lollar Omni-Trons which are a cross between a Dearmond and a P-90. It sounds very midrange-y right now. They don't quite sound like either pickup they were inspired by. In this case, there's no way to know what the guitar sounds like without aluminum. I would be interested in looking under the aluminum but the amount of screws daunt me.

 

donnyb

Member
Messages
531
I must ask more questions and start more threads.... lol ! Great stuff, thank you.

I have purchased some cavity paint from the UK, but the jury is still out on whether it gets out of the can. Until I read all the posts again at least.

Just to remind Posters, that in my particular case, its a Classic 57 at the neck, and a Schaller Flagship pre amp and Shaller tuneomatic piezo bridge.
9 volt battery in the cavity with the pre-amp, 5 way switch (comes with the Schaller pre-amp) and pots.

Perhaps there's more yet to be said here ?
 

walterw

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
37,524
I have purchased some cavity paint from the UK, but the jury is still out on whether it gets out of the can. Until I read all the posts again at least.
if ya got it, use it!

there's certainly no harm, and you might benefit from a bit lower noise when you let go of the strings.
 

KGWagner

Member
Messages
3,243
That's what I usually say, too. Doesn't hurt anything to do it. Doesn't help anything either, but sometimes it makes people feel better.
 

KGWagner

Member
Messages
3,243
I've always used shielded cable for everything carrying signal. It's a bigger pain in the ass to wire with but much more effective.
 

walterw

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
37,524
I've always used shielded cable for everything carrying signal. It's a bigger pain in the ass to wire with but much more effective.
ooh, have you found a good skinny shielded cable for internal stuff?

the vintage braided can be bulky and awkward, and you risk the shield touching something it shouldn't in there. the single conductor i've gotten from the likes of stewmac looks and acts like skinnier george L and is kinda tough to strip and work with.
 

KGWagner

Member
Messages
3,243
ooh, have you found a good skinny shielded cable for internal stuff?
No, but not for lack of trying. Been looking for years. I know it exists - I've seen in assemblies - I just can't find it for sale anywhere. I want it for the same reason you do - keeping the braid on the traditional cable out of harm's way is something you need to pay attention to, and being able to get into tighter spaces would be nice as well. But, in the meantime, I keep buying reels of the outer braid stuff.
 

ahhlou

Member
Messages
778
When using shielded braided cable in guitars (mostly Gibson), I use heat shrink to cover it as it goes into the control cavity. That prevents the shield from touching things it shouldn't. I final route the wires and final assemble them before applying heat so the cable maintains the curves and routes I want it to have.

I agree that it would be nice to have access to smaller diameter shielded cable to work with like the george L stuff (only softer) as traditional shielded cable is bulky.
 

KGWagner

Member
Messages
3,243
I've tried the heat shrink trick, and it's unavoidable at some points, but overall it just makes the stuff even stiffer/bulkier. Instead, I've taken to using self-adhesive anchors and cable ties to keep things out of harm's way. $7/100, so not too painful.

 

Dave Weir

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
1,220
I've been useing this single conductor with shield.
Belden Single Conductor Shielded Wire
MfgId: 9396
It is easier for me to work with than the vintage braided cable.
You can get 3' from GuitarElectronics.com if you want to try it.
You can buy bulk from Anixter or places like that. Search BELDEN 9396
 

walterw

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
37,524
I've been useing this single conductor with shield.
Belden Single Conductor Shielded Wire
MfgId: 9396
hmm.

the spec sheet says 75pF/ft capacitance, which is really high (regular dimarzio guitar cables are 33pF/ft), but that might not matter for like 6" of cable in a control cavity.

is it easy to strip and solder? it's not like that thin crap you find in all the import guitars is it?
 

Dave Weir

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
1,220
I don't have any trouble stripping or soldering, and that's certainly not my strong suit.
I couldn't speak to what's in imported guitars, it could be the same thing.
It's outer shield diameter is .100", compared to .075" for a gretsch filtertron and .175" for what I think is George L Cable. I only have one Dimarzio in the box and it's four conductor.
I don't know about the Capacitance issue. I can't tell any difference when I use the vintage braided cable. I run the pickup directly to the jack, and if I shield the jack connection, it's perfectly quite with all the amp controls turned up all the way, and the guitar laying in front of the TV, hands off.
 

walterw

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
37,524
I couldn't speak to what's in imported guitars, it could be the same thing.
It's outer shield diameter is .100", compared to .075" for a gretsch filtertron
OK, that sounds like it's a little beefier than the stuff i'm talking about; i'ma have to try some, thanks for the tip!
 

Antmax

Member
Messages
1,719
I noticed they have 28 AWG shielded wire on Amazon. You can buy it in sets of 3 or 4 colors, 6 foot each. I'm thinking of getting the 4 color set.

http://amzn.to/2kNkNc5

Should be enough to do all three of my guitars. See if I can reduce any rf noise even more. Single coils are pretty bad in my study with the computer and what have you.

It doesn't tell you the resistance of the wire. But small lengths like this shouldn't make much difference.
 

Mighty Melvin

Member
Messages
2,713
I recently bought what amounts to a toy guitar (plywood body) and the cavity was shielded with paint. And I'm sure that the previous owner wouldn't have done it. If the paint wasn't so expensive I'd shield them all.
 

vhollund

Member
Messages
3,519
I'm re-reading this old thread from the days where John Suhr shared his wisdom here. It doesn't get any better.
 




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