Changing Tubes and Speaker in a Deluxe Reverb

Both are the easiest mods a do-it-yourselfer can make to an amp.

The biggest issues are that the power tubes (6V6GTs) must be biased and you may have to solder speaker wires (if you don't have lugs on the speaker end, or they don't fit your new speaker terminals) onto your new speaker terminals. Some care is required as too much heat can destroy the internal speaker connections.

For biasing, check out www.webervst.com for a Bias Rite bias probe. This (and other similar products) allow you to bias your DR without pulling the chassis. There's a bias control (screw driver adjustment) underneath the chassis, in front of the transformers, near the power tubes.

 

I upgraded my blackface deluxe reverb with a weber ceramic silver bell 50 watt, which give it a nice bottom end and rounder highs.I replaced the power tubes with JJ 6V6S and they really made a big difference. Better note seperation, tighter bottom, smoother highs. To my ear, these are one of the best sounding 6V6's in a blackface circut I have ever heard. And I have more than a few matched sets of NOS stuff: GE, Sylvania black plates w/smoked glass, Sylvania grey plates w/clear glass, Raytheons etc. As for a tweed circut, I think the NOS stuff sounds better.

 

Was the model number of the Weber speaker you got 12F150 by any chance?

 

When buying speakers, remember to check mounting. Fenders normally have 8 speaker mounting screws. Some manufacturers (Celestion) only put 4 mounting holes in their speakers. If you pick a speaker with 4 holes you got to either drill holes or remove/cut screws. Be sure the replacement speaker's impedence matches the original (8 ohms for DR).

To change the speaker in a DR expect to remove both back panels, chassis (too close for comfort) and at least partially unmount the reverb tank. When yanking the chassis, take out the big tubes at minimum (note where they go) and remember to remove the speaker and reverb cables and the outlet cord cabinet mount before pulling the thing out. Goofy stuff but I have forgotten a time or two. And be sure to hook em back up when you're putting everything back together (especially that speaker jack). The reverb cables only work one way - be sure you get em right. And don't plug the speaker into the extension jack hole by mistake.

If you don't simply unsolder the existing speaker wires and use them with the jack on the new speaker, you'll need a new jack and some wire (lamp cord is OK by me but others may recommend something a little nicer). Soldering the new right angle plug to the speaker cable can be a pain and it needs to be right. If you don't have the soldering thing down, you might want to pass on this.

Electronic issues aside, pull tubes out and put new ones in (after they cool off). MESA used to have a little beginner tutorial on how to pull and replace tubes. You might check that site if you aren't comfortable.

hunter

 

NO, THE SPEAKER IS IN THE BRITISH SECTION OF HIS LISTINGS. IT'S A CERAMIC SILVER BELL. IT COMES IN 15, 30, OR 50 WATT VERSIONS. IT STILL RETAINS THE FENDER "SPARKLE" BUT THE LOW END IS MUCH TIGHTER, CLEANER, AND THE HIGHS ARE SMOOTH. I A/B THIS SPEAKER WITH A CELESTION VINTAGE 30 AND IT SOUNDED MUCH BETTER AND EVEN HAD MORE LOW END THUMP!!