Confusion regarding Rectifier Tube on Deluxe Reverb

[Telemach]

I have been puzzled over a few charts that differ in what the right rectifier on a DR should be.
The amp's sticker inside the cab sys 5U4GB while other sources in the net, even w/o mentioning modifications, state that it was GZ34.
I'm not intending to modify my DR. I want it just stock. Anybody knows why there are different recommendations?

 

[pokey]

I'd use what the tube chart says to be safe.

more on rectifiers

http://acruhl.freeshell.org/mga/main/rectifiers.html

 

[wyatt]

Blackface and RI's use GZ34, most Silverface used 5U4. Fender probably made the switch to the 5U4 because of price, but the higher current draw and bigger voltage drop of the 5U4 probably meant a change in PT specs to use them.

 

[Telemach]

.........., but the higher current draw and bigger voltage drop of the 5U4 probably meant a change in PT specs to use them.

Sorry for my ignorance what does this mean? PT? And what does current draw affect tonewise? Is it more a question of impact and wear on the tubes when higher voltage draw occurs?

 

[Telemach]

Ouups, looks like pokey's link is going to shed some light on my question

 

[riffmeister]

Blackface and RI's use GZ34, most Silverface used 5U4.

Right, Fender switched from GZ34 to 5U4 in the Silverface era. If the tube chart says 5U4 then that's the one for the amp in question.

 

[SkippyD]

This may be interesting to you
http://www.kcanostubes.com/content/rectifier-comparison-and-interchangeability-chart

Last sentence is probably most important to you. Now if you choose to use a lower rated rectifier(which I like for a bit more sag in a DR)most of the warnings don't apply.

 

[Telemach]

Thanks guys, no experiment from my side. I'll get me a new 5U4 rather than a GZ.

 

[zenas]

With a 5u4 look into an NOS tube. That tubes not priced to high in NOS a NOS GZ34 on the other hand is around 200 bucks.

 

[Telemach]

With a 5u4 look into an NOS tube. That tubes not priced to high in NOS a NOS GZ34 on the other hand is around 200 bucks.

Well, I'm fortunate to have a friend who usually has a large stock of NOS tubes. Not sure if he can get me this one. I'll try to call him later nand see what>'s up. On the other hand I play music and do lead a local jam where we, the opener band let all the other musicians play over our gear. I only play about 10% of my gear's playing time. The rest of the time guest musicians play my gear (except most of the times, not my guitar) So I don't really opt. for really expensive NOS tubes unless I'll have any studio jobs.
I'll see what I can get.

 

[mad dog]

Just a thought:

A buddy of mine has the best sounding BF deluxe reverb I've heard. Two things he's doing different, might be responsible. One is using a weber silver bell ceramic speaker. The other is using a Philco 5R4WGB rectifier, the odd-shaped "potato masher" tube. This same tube has proved to be the magic for me in a Sewell Wampus Cat. They're on the cheap side for NOS, might be worth checking out. Be sure to rebias if you do try one.
MD

 

[Telemach]

Philco eh, ...I'll ask for that one too. With the speaker I'll have to do more research. Every tip is much appreciated. Thanx for the pointers.

 

[megatonic]

Thanks guys, no experiment from my side. I'll get me a new 5U4 rather than a GZ.

You should try out the Weber "Copper Cap".

http://www.webervst.com/ccap.html

 

[zenas]

I don't think an NOS rectifier will sound better than the same type of new one. Just that the NOS ones last longer. So if the price ain't much more for NOS that's what I'd get.
And by all means try a few different types. Just keep an eye on bias and current draw. Good info on most of the tube venders sites.

 

[Telemach]

You should try out the Weber "Copper Cap".

http://www.webervst.com/ccap.html

Well, I've already built me a device that did exactly what the Copper Cap is doing long before I knew of its' existence. A friend of mine who knows things very well, once draw me circuit and made me a list of what resistors that should be involved. I took it a step further and had implemented a rotary switch that could choose between different grades of sag. All that went into my Hot Rod Deluxe which was my trunk amp at this time. It worked pretty well and with my custom made 2 X 10" panel w. Jensen speakers this brown tolex version of a HR Deluxe was very sweet and a lot more Fenderish in sound than w. its' orig trim. I ebayed the HR Deluxe to Finland which was a major hassle regarding wrapping it up BTW. The guy was lucky having stolen it from me at a very decent prize. Ouups, old men talk too much, anyway,.....aaahm yeah, 5the copper cap has a wire in cooperated to simulate tube heat which is absolutely nonesense and only good for the fuzzy warm feeling of the customer.
Anyway, I thought that it was sounding O.K., but for some irational reason I prefer the orig. tube as long as I can use a tube. With the Hot Rod this wouldnÄt have been possible. Thanx for the pointer though.

 

[megatonic]

Well, I've already built me a device that did exactly what the Copper Cap is doing long before I knew of its' existence. A friend of mine who knows things very well, once draw me circuit and made me a list of what resistors that should be involved. I took it a step further and had implemented a rotary switch that could choose between different grades of sag. All that went into my Hot Rod Deluxe which was my trunk amp at this time. It worked pretty well and with my custom made 2 X 10" panel w. Jensen speakers this brown tolex version of a HR Deluxe was very sweet and a lot more Fenderish in sound than w. its' orig trim. I ebayed the HR Deluxe to Finland which was a major hassle regarding wrapping it up BTW. The guy was lucky having stolen it from me at a very decent prize. Ouups, old men talk too much, anyway,.....aaahm yeah, 5the copper cap has a wire in cooperated to simulate tube heat which is absolutely nonesense and only good for the fuzzy warm feeling of the customer.
Anyway, I thought that it was sounding O.K., but for some irational reason I prefer the orig. tube as long as I can use a tube. With the Hot Rod this wouldnÄt have been possible. Thanx for the pointer though.

Whew! You're way ahead of me on that curve.
I tried the Copper Cap with my Lonestar Classic and ended up using it for the durability factor. Took a degree of tube failure worry out of the equation, and my amp still sounded good. I like your rotary switch feature,it's a great idea.

Anyway, good luck with the tube thing.

 

[Custom Deluxe]

I don't think an NOS rectifier will sound better than the same type of new one. Just that the NOS ones last longer. So if the price ain't much more for NOS that's what I'd get.
And by all means try a few different types. Just keep an eye on bias and current draw. Good info on most of the tube venders sites.

Not sure about this. I don't think any of the new production tubes are "true" GZ34's. There are some differences that may matter, just exactly sure what they are off hand.

 

[Baxtercat]

Over here the original 5U4s aren't too dear. I have a large recent and decent Russian one too. I think this is one [a shot from another TGP thread]...nice big glass appearance [half the fun, right?]

 

[Telemach]

Looks like a Chinese built.

 

[slider313]

Just a thought:

A buddy of mine has the best sounding BF deluxe reverb I've heard. Two things he's doing different, might be responsible. One is using a weber silver bell ceramic speaker. The other is using a Philco 5R4WGB rectifier, the odd-shaped "potato masher" tube. This same tube has proved to be the magic for me in a Sewell Wampus Cat. They're on the cheap side for NOS, might be worth checking out. Be sure to rebias if you do try one.
MD

Yes. I had been using a 5V4 in my DR, bringing the plate voltage down to about 425v-430v, but recently went with a GE blackplate 5R4GYB. This brings my plate voltage down to about 400v-405v. It's not only easier on the 6V6's but it sounds great too. The highs are smoother due to the extra sag and compression of the 5R4.