DIY Cables! How to chose? Strip? Help!

Discussion in 'Effects, Pedals, Strings & Things' started by strumminsix, Feb 19, 2009.

  1. strumminsix

    strumminsix Member

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    Hey gang, I want to venture into DIY cables.

    My thinking is very practical and I need some help getting my head straight.

    My experience is limited to making a custom jack by stripping a single conductor cable with ground shielding and it took forever.

    Now my first question is why not use a 2 conductor cable like Belden 83393:
    [​IMG]

    Personally I love the tone of my Mogami so I would rather stick to that brand. That brings us to standard single conductor which my experience is none too pleasant.

    How do you properly strip a cable with the shield as ground (Mog 2524) ?
    [​IMG]


    The other part of my asks why not buy bulk mic cable (Mog 2549):
    [​IMG]

    Then have quick guitar cables using the blue and clear as hot and ground and also have the shield for wiring mic cables as needed. Is that just weird lazy thinking?

    BTW, planned on using Neutrik np2c & np2rc straight and right 1/4" connectors. Good?

    Thanks!
     
  2. dosmun

    dosmun Member

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    This from the Canare site but goes for Mogami cable as well.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. strumminsix

    strumminsix Member

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    Thanks. But how do you accurately strip? Why not use mic cable?
     
  4. TieDyedDevil

    TieDyedDevil Member

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    You have to ground the shield even if you use mic cable.
     
  5. Yr Blues

    Yr Blues Member

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    Easy, buy Bill Lawrence Wilde cablesÂ…not the George L's copy. Best cables ever.
     
  6. nibus

    nibus Supporting Member

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    Check this thread I started a while back:

    http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=412730

    I have since soldered all my cables with Mogami and the thin pancake ends. Not one of them has broken (more than I can say for George L's) and they sound great, and are super cheap to make.
     
  7. 155

    155 Supporting Member

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    solder rules!!!
     
  8. dewey decibel

    dewey decibel Supporting Member

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    I just made a board with the Mogami 2524 (much thanks Nibus' thread BTW). To strip the first layer I used a coax stripper I had laying around, so I'm not sure the gauge. For the second layer (the conductive covering you're talking about) I settled on the 12 awg setting on my stripper. For the last layer I think I was using 18 awg. These are all stranded settings.

    I suggest you play around with the tools you have on a piece of scrap to find the optimum settings. The first and last layers aren't as critical, but you'll want to make sure you're not using too small a stripper on the second layer- you have to make sure you're not cutting through the clear shielding. Also, you'll want to make sure you have the second black shield cut back far enough, and then have that clear shield up to the joint (or use heat shrink) as that black layer is conductive (which it seems like you're already hip to).
     
  9. nibus

    nibus Supporting Member

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    I can't tell you how frustrated I was until Jakeddy clued me in on this!
     
  10. mrmjp

    mrmjp Member

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    "best/favorite" Male 1/4" Right-Angle plugs?
     
  11. strumminsix

    strumminsix Member

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    Wow! Thank you everyone! This is the info that I needed!

    That is a great video on tubedepot. Too bad their Mogami prices are $1 a foot over most other places.

    Great tip on the inner conductive sheath!

    mrmjp - my initial choices are: Neutrik np2c & np2rc
     
  12. mrmjp

    mrmjp Member

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    I have been looking at making my own for a while so the Neutrik sounds great to me. Thanks Six!
     
  13. jay42

    jay42 Member

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    I don't understand what the flexible sheath is for. It looks like it might snag since it's a mesh.

    There was a seemingly disparaging comment at the end about Switchcraft which I didn't comprehend. Imo, the Switchcraft 280 is a perfectly good plug, though the insulation can break down over the years. A GP shootout showed that those are lower capacitance than the Neutrik plugs. I've also used Neutrik and G&H, fwiw.

    Canare GS-6 is normally less expensive than that specific Mogami model.
     
  14. LavaMan

    LavaMan Gold Supporting Member

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    Good affordable DIY Cable brands:

    Mogami 2524
    Canare GS-6
    Gepco GLC20

    Good Plugs:

    G&H BF2P-NNN
    Neutril NP2C
    G&H RF2P-NNN

    Steps:

    1. Use two vices or banana clip apparatus to secure both cable and plug
    2. Ues 50W soldering iron - Weller WES51 is best bang-for-buck IMO
    3. Slide plug back shell or housing on cable
    4. Strip outer jacket exposing shield
    5. Peel shield back with small phillips screwdrive or fingers (spiral) and twist underneath
    6. Strip Inner layer of black semi-conductive PVC about 1/6" in front of shield
    7. Strip white or clear dielectric exposing center conductor
    8. Tin center condutor with solder
    9. Cut shield just before where center condutor starts

    Should now see:

    Balck outer jacket >>> Shield >>> Black Inner PVC >>> white/clear dielectric >>> tinned center conductor

    10. Place plug in one vice
    11. Place cable in plug
    12. Secure cable in other vice
    13. Solder

    Note: If black inner PVC layer comes in contact with cneter conductor it will short cable
     
  15. martyncrew

    martyncrew Gold Supporting Member

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    I've been using George L's for a while and still do to connect on my pedal board but for guitar -> amp or other applications where the cable moves, I now use StringDog cables. Very well designed, strong, flexible and seem to be as good as George L in terms of sound quality.
     
  16. strumminsix

    strumminsix Member

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    Lavaman! You rock! Do you sell bulk quantities?

    Also, do you use flux like the video showed?
    Also, do you use heat shrinks when you don't use techflex?
     

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