DIY Soldered Cable Options --

Discussion in 'Effects, Pedals, Strings & Things' started by nibus, Jul 4, 2008.

  1. nibus

    nibus Supporting Member

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    I'm looking into some DIY soldered cable options. I'm thinking about just getting some Mogami guitar cable and some flat ends and soldering everything myself to save money.

    Does anyone know where to find mogami cable in spools?

    What about these flat ends seen in this photo?

    Any suggestions other than Mogami?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Ed Reed

    Ed Reed Senior Member

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    Thank you, that's my board.

    I am a Horizon dealer and they make some silver stranded Mogami clone wire, it's not really any cheaper than Mogami though. They are both about .70 a foot. I'll post the link for the ends and the cable in a minute.
     
  3. Ed Reed

    Ed Reed Senior Member

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  4. DoobieK

    DoobieK Member

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    I think Mogami sounds pretty good, but not the clearest cable available and I had one go bad somewhere between the ends after only about a year. Have you thought about soldering ends on George L's cables? I did that on mine and have been happy with them for years. I do use a Lava ELC cable between the guitar and first pedal though. They are pretty thick in diameter, like a Monster Cable, but more flexible. The GL's are too stiff between the guitar and 1st pedal for me.

    If the flat ends in the photo are Switchcraft, those are good. They are my preferred 90 degree plug. Neutrik is good too, but they are huge. G&H are nice if you need a narrower plug, but they are not as flat. If that makes sense. I will use a Switchcraft and a Neutrik side by side if the pedal has two outputs that are too close together for Switchcrafts.
     
  5. Ed Reed

    Ed Reed Senior Member

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    The ends http://stores.ebay.com/www-SpeakerRepair-com

    They are not Switch Craft but knock offs. SC cost $3.00 each, these can go as low as 0.59 each if you buy 100. That's what I did. They are still very good quality though.
     
  6. nibus

    nibus Supporting Member

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  7. Ed Reed

    Ed Reed Senior Member

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    You're more than welcome. You are on the right track this will save you some real cash.

    Be sure to use Kester 44 solder, I found a roll at my local Car Quest auto parts for $14.39, way less than advertised on the net.
     
  8. rogue.guineapig

    rogue.guineapig Member

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    I did those ends that jakeddy posted, the RA ones
    and used Lava ELC mini cable...wonderful deal.
    You can cable up a pedalboard for $30-$40 total, and that's a LOT
    of cables.
    I love my ELC.
    lavabcables.com
     
  9. nibus

    nibus Supporting Member

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    Just thought I would add a couple things.

    I bought some mogami cable from here:
    http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/product_view.cgi?products_id=5598

    And I used the ends from the ebay store that Ed posted:
    http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...=http://stores.ebay.com/www-SpeakerRepair-com

    I spent most of the weekend making broken cables because I was missing one valuable bit of information that Ed pointed out to me yesterday -

    With Mogami cable, you have to peel back the second black layer away from the clear plastic layer underneath. The reason is the black layer is conductive and will short out the connection if you do not. I made approximately a dozen cables that didn't work before I found this out.

    Big thanks to Ed Reed (jakeddy) !!
     
  10. bmenary

    bmenary Member

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    Thank You guys- Some great ideas-
     
  11. Ed Reed

    Ed Reed Senior Member

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    Your welcome. I learned about this from John Suhr so cudos must be passed on to where they are deserved. The issue with the black inner core running part of the signal to ground making the tone weak and muddy is very real. This is often overlooked on even some high dollar aftermarket cables. Take a minuite and check those tone sucking store bought cables and sometimes you'll find about 3 seconds with an exact knife and carefully removing that black core will give you free tone.

    If you doubt this take a multi meter and check a piece of the insulation for conductivity.
     
  12. rawkguitarist

    rawkguitarist Member

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    Also guys. Looks like the OP found his solutions. Another suggestion if you want some different cable options, is Lava Cable. Mark sells many of his cables bulk. I recently got tired of my George L's crapping out on me. I hunted down a good deal on some G&H right angles, bought some Evidence Audio Melody bulk from Mark and made some really nice patch cables.

    Although I'm not a major solder jockey, it sure is nice to be able to DIY some stuff. (cables, pedals, mods) This place is great for getting started...
     
  13. teefus

    teefus Silver Supporting Member

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    i used canare gs-4 which is made for pedlaboards. it is similar to the canare gs-6 but thinner like george l. i used swithcraft straight and right angle ends, models 226 and 228. i just found a resource for the flatter switchcraft right angle ends. they are $2.82 if you buy 10. even less if you buy more. this is an old photo but i think you can get the idea.
    http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a131/teefus/1744.jpg
     
  14. Ed Reed

    Ed Reed Senior Member

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    Absolutely! Learning to do basic soldering is a must for the gear head.
     
  15. trumpus

    trumpus Supporting Member

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    Anyone got a good step-by-step, pictoral resource for DIY cables? I'm the kind of person that needs to see things spelled out step by step!

    Brian
     
  16. frizbplaya

    frizbplaya Member

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    +1, that's where I get mine.
    Also
    +1 for youtube soldering videos, that's how I learned!!!
     
  17. Ed Reed

    Ed Reed Senior Member

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    I watched those too.

    Go to radio shack and buy a cheap iron and start trying. Be prepared to screw up, don't give up, think about what you did wrong and start over. My first cables were crude and took way too long to build. By the time I finished the board the OP put up, I had a system figgured out and my soldering looked nice.

    I'll say it one more time, buy some Kester solder, made all the difference for me.
     
  18. rawkguitarist

    rawkguitarist Member

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  19. dick wiewy

    dick wiewy Member

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    What appears to make some solders easier to work with than others with
    the exact same ratio of lead to tin is it's quantity of rosin flux. The flux
    is what establishes the ease of "wetting" action as the solder flows across
    the heated components.
    Remember to keep your iron's tip "tinned" and wipe or shake off any carbonized accumulations so everything's shiny and hot. Always wipe away the flux puddles when everything's cooled with denatured alcohol on a toothbrush or other plastic bristled brush. Flux will corrode soldered joints
    over time.
    It only took me a year or so to make uniform solder joints that flowed evenly through braided sheild, solder lugs or amp parts that retained their
    shiny appearance after cooling. Don't despair, keep after it to develope your skills.
    Be thankful some NASA inspector isn't grading your work. Some folks
    can be really demanding.


    [​IMG]
     

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