Hello First post .. be gentle. I've been looking at Taylor 714CEs for a couple years whenever I stop in my local stores. I like the size, playablity, and the warm tone of the Cedar top. I'm drawing closer to purchasing one, but I've been told by a knowledgeable source that Cedar doesn't age as well as spuce. I'd like to know if anyone has an opinion on this. Thanks kindly
It's BS. Classical guitars have had cedar tops for a very long time, and they age as well as any guitars. The nice thing about cedar is that it's warm sounding. The only downside is that spruce is a little bit harder wood than cedar. Figure it this way. By the time something bad happens to the guitar from aging you will be long dead.
thanks for your input I went to Buffalo Bros today to compare differentTaylors I also took a look at several high end acoustics - Froggy Bottoms, Huff & Dalton, Collings, and Goodalls. After being impressed with the Goodalls, I came home and took a look at his site. He had some interesting comments regarding spruce, cedar, and redwood tops.: ---------------------- "For the sensitive fingerstyle player, I might pick a cedar top Grand Concert cutaway. It depends on what gauge strings one uses. If a person has a light attack and uses light gauge strings, then Engelmann would be an excellent choice, or even possibly redwood or cedar. But for the one who is going to use light or medium gauge strings, or isn't sure, then it's best to go with Sitka; it's stronger, and will probably hold up better over the years. Sitka spruce, for its weight, is one of the strongest woods in the world." With regard to cedar and redwood, "That's a whole different story," James says, "I like to find the stiffest cedar and redwood I can, first, because of strength concerns, but also because I'm gaining a whole other spectrum of sound that some fingerstyle players like. It's very focused and very clear and very filled with harmonics, but again, coupled with our design, you're also getting that lyrical, fundamental tone. It's a very impressive sound, But you've got to be careful with cedar, because it is a soft wood, and you cannot use medium gauge strings on those guitars."
Yeah, I mentioned that cedar is softer than spruce. But on a well made guitar it shouldn't matter in terms of aging well, as long as you aren't gonna bash the guitar around. BTW, I play a Collings SJ with a Sitka top. However, I had two Taylor W 14s with cedar tops, and tho there were no problems with the tops, I had other problems with the Taylors. Imagine a guitar that needed a neck reset in order to be playable...when new. Or that had its bridge pins drilled at an angle, so the correct tension on the bridge couldn't be maintained...or one that the finish started flaking off after a few months... And imagine paying over three grand for the thing...
I've had my Taylor 1995 GAMC (Grand Auditorium Mahogany Cedar - predecessor to the 514) since I bought it new 10 years ago. As one might expect, the guitar has simply improved over time and it's tone has "spread", in a very nice way. Nothing wrong with the cedar top at all after this much time - no deterioration in tone, no unexpected bellying of the top, guitar performs well overall. No worries on Taylor cedar tops for me.
I've had a Taylor 815 CE since 2000. I purchased it new for just under 2K. It is a beautiful sounding guitar and very playable with a great neck. The Fishman blended pups on it sound great when on a PA. I have only good things to say about the guitar. Yossi PS. Sorry to hear that you had a lemon, Les
Curly, did you play any of the Huss and Daltons or the red Taylor 610? I was very impressed with those. I was disapointed with the guilds.. What say you?
I may have a looked at a Huss & Dalton, but they didn't leave an impression on me. Same with Froggy Bottoms - although I like their aesthetic, I didn't find them really that playable. Loved Goodalls, consistently. Didn't try the maple Taylors - not really my thing - I'd probably get mahogany before maple.
Interesting, I was disapointed in the Godalls. In the past I have played much better examples of their guitars. I didn't think that the maple Taylor dreds were up my alley either but that one was a very nice guitar.
I've had my 714CE since 1999 and it just gets better and better. The guitar is easly over driven with my pick so I have to keep that in the front of my mind. Does not do a good job for Pete Townshend songs but for finger picking and the Praise Music I play it is perfect. Now I just have keep working on that finger picking. Taylor makes very good guitars!!
If you are interested, my friend Gary at Western Guitars in Spokane,WA. has a used Taylor 714-CE for sale in mint condition!
I've had a cedar-topped 710 CE since the mid-90's. No problems and it has only gotten better. It was my main stage guitar for a number of years and got pretty thrashred at times but the guitar in general and the top in particular have held up well.
I have a Martin 0-15 from 1959,that I got for a song,that being said,the week before I got it,Iwent to the local Mom&Pop music store.I played through every accoustic guitar in the store,inckuding some very expensive guitars-upward of 5 grand each...the guitar that sounded the best was a Taylor 514ce,the thing sounded amazing.In fact if anyone wants my Martin,and has a Minty 514ce with the Fishman and some cash...a PM should be considered...
Yes, cedar is a softer wood. That is inarguable. HOWEVER- My 714ce (sold it not too long ago to fund my electric) took one of the hardest hits to the floor that I've ever seen- including purposely smasshing a guitar Pete Townshend style. I would've expected ANY guitar (cedar, spruce...cast iron even) to have shattered to pieces as a result. I'm not exagerating. Not at all. It hit the floor HARD. If you saw video of it, you'd bet big money that the guitar was toast. Well, I brushed off the flaked pieces of finish in the small .25"x.75" area that chipped away, re-tuned, caught my breath, wiped my tears and played the gig. Never did refinish it, either (and it never spread.) And I confirmed that there was absolutely no structural damage whatsoever. So, uh, who says cedar is soft? (Oh, and mine aged beautifully, too. No, I didn't have it for 50 years, but I did own it for 8 years and I've yet to play a model that I like better.) You made a fine choice.
Spruce vs. cedar...here's what the deal is. Many people have heard the rumors over the years about how spruce ages better and is superior to cedar. The problem is that's all they know, and as Paul Harvey would say, here's the rest of the story... Cedar comes out of the workshop sounding really nice and open. It doesn't open up much more. Spruce on the other hand, has a lot more sap in the wood fibers that take years to dry out. As the sap dries, the soundwaves from playing the guitar fracture the sap and help open up spruce much more. So, yes, spruce will open up more over the years, but they are two completely different tonewoods that both sound awesome in their own respect. It's like trying to compare rosewood or mahogany, it depends what sound you're after. So next time somebody tells you spruce ages better, ask them why and see if they have a clue. Cheers!
Curly.....here's my cedar top powerhouse, a Lowden O-23..........make sure you play one and physically feel one before you make a final decision.....the satin finish is truly a work of art. Sonically balanced from string to string in both brilliance and amplitude with grand piano like basses. Fingerstyle sensitive yet you can hammer a pick into it also.
