Fender 62 RI strat neck radius

gregory70

Member
Messages
889
I have a Fender 62 RI Strat that I love, but am often frustrated by the vintage neck radius (7.25" radius). I love the size, shape, and feel of the neck - I just have the standard problems with fretting-out.

Are there replacement necks of the 62 shape, size, and finish with more modern radius's? Should (can I) I have the neck "re-radiused" (sp)?
 

gkelm

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
3,758
I know what you mean. Best be would be to try a Warmoth, Allparts, or similar with desired specs. I'd keep the stock neck for resale.
Greg
 

Ayan

Member
Messages
831
Originally posted by gregory70
I have a Fender 62 RI Strat that I love, but am often frustrated by the vintage neck radius (7.25" radius). I love the size, shape, and feel of the neck - I just have the standard problems with fretting-out.

Are there replacement necks of the 62 shape, size, and finish with more modern radius's? Should (can I) I have the neck "re-radiused" (sp)?
I have a vintage reissue Tele which originally came with a 7 1/4"radius. I had the radius planed down and the guitar refretted and I never looked back. Since we're talking rosewood boards here, you don't run the risk of having to refinish it (to match the original finish) and having that come out badly.

A good refret job may cost you as much as a new neck though, but if you're into having the guitar read "Fender" on it and all of that (hey, I'm guilty of that), then you should consider it.

Cheers,

Gil
 

mattmccloskey

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
5,730
just get it re-fretted and have the tech re-radius it then. It will cost a little less than a new neck, unless the tech is real expensive. If you got a new neck from warmoth it would be 157 for a neck plus 80 bucks for vintage tint finish. Then you would still have to have a nut installed and cut, around 50 bucks, plus a string tree. Then you also run the risk of it not quite fitting your neck pocket as cleanly. All said and done you would spend 300 bucks. For that a good tech will refret and re-radius with a new nut and set it up.
 

gregory70

Member
Messages
889
I'm thinking I might just buy a new neck - Warmoth? USA Custom? Whose are better? I want quality even if it costs a bit more...
 

alderbody

Member
Messages
682
Warmoth necks are exact Fender copies.
USA Custom necks have a slightly different headstock shape, which could be filed and sanded to look like the originals.

Both have great quality.

I have a Warmoth and it's perfect!
 

alderbody

Member
Messages
682
if you want it finished, Warmoth doesn't use nitro, while_i think_USACG do.

I got my Warmoth unfinished and had it nitroed at a local luthier's.
 

OWENMUSTANG

Member
Messages
69
Originally posted by alderbody
if you want it finished, Warmoth doesn't use nitro, while_i think_USACG do.

I got my Warmoth unfinished and had it nitroed at a local luthier's.
USACG does not finish guitars/necks. (they tell who they use. roxy, i belive)
oh, usa stuff is top quality...
 

gregory70

Member
Messages
889
Looking at the Warmoth and USACG websites has (foolishly?) inspired me to undertake a "project guitar." I was thinking about buying a neck/body from Warmoth and USACG, having them painted (by Roxy if I go USACG) and finishing the project out with Callaham parts and nicer pickups - I've heard good things about WCR. My local luthier has offered to do assemble the guitar.

Has anyone done this? Would this be any better than just buying a Suhr or Grosh?
 

gkelm

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
3,758
Originally posted by gregory70
Looking at the Warmoth and USACG websites has (foolishly?) inspired me to undertake a "project guitar." I was thinking about buying a neck/body from Warmoth and USACG, having them painted (by Roxy if I go USACG) and finishing the project out with Callaham parts and nicer pickups - I've heard good things about WCR. My local luthier has offered to do assemble the guitar.

Has anyone done this? Would this be any better than just buying a Suhr or Grosh?
If you search around you'll find several guys who've done this...some love their final product, others take a big hit on resale. You really never know exactly what it's going to sound & play like when it's finished. You might take it a step at a time...start with a neck for your current strat. If you dig it, proceed to get a body, etc. Just a suggestion...I tend to err on the cautious side. :)

There are a couple Melancons in the emporium that seem like excellent deals, probably even less than a project would cost you.

All the best in whatever you do.
Greg
 

mattmccloskey

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
5,730
It will not end up as good as a suhr. I have built many strats from warmoth and also one from USACG. It can be good, but it won't be as detailed as a suhr. The neck pockets are never as flawless because they are not fully detailed and sanded prior to finishing like on a suhr or anderson. The neck pockets are usually too tight on usa stuff, and you need to sand some to get it to go in smoothly. This is a pain if you have it prefinished in gloss.

Another issue, a warmoth or usacustom 1 peice maple necks are fretted before finishing. This means you have to remove the finish from the top of the frets, which is a pain, and won't look as nice as suhr, where they finish then fret, for a super clean look.

Suhrs come with buzz feiten tuning system, the others do not.

Fingerboard edges- usa custom will 'roll' the edges for a broken in feel, warmoth does not. Suhr, anderson, etc, do this of course.

Even if you buy great hardware, some things, like the pots and trems suhr uses, are not really available to the general public, so you can't get them.

Finally, if you add the cost of a usa custom project with all the goodies that come standard on a suhr, PLUS you pay a really great guy to cut a nut, plek the frets, etc., it will end up more expensive than a comparable suhr.
 

CS'56

Member
Messages
1,256
I'm very surprised no one has mentioned your set up. The 7.25 radius is not causing your fretting-out. I'm sure it's not helping either. I own a '55 and '56 Custom Strat with 7.25 radius and 6105 frets. They NEVER fret out. I've played way too many Time Machines Strats to count. None of these guitars even with the tiny frets ever fretted out.
You also might consider that changing the neck will probably change the tone.
 

CS'56

Member
Messages
1,256
Originally posted by Suhr
Fingerboard radius is directly related to Choking/fretting out when you bend the strings. Nothing to do with fret height. This of course depends on the height of your strings. IF you set the action at 1/16" from the top the the last fret to the bottom of the string with 7.25" radius you WILL fret out when bending the notes around the 12th fret high E string. On a 14" you will NOT fret out.
I didn't mean to insinuate that fret size made a difference. I guess I didn't need to get that detalied. Like you pointed out, it's all in the set up.
 




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