Gibson guitar tuning stability hack. Does this really work??


Silver Supporting Member
I used to get frustrated by strings binding in the nut slots of my brand new Gibsons , especially the G and B strings. Finally realized what an easy fix it is . The nut sauce, graphite, etc only works temporarily . Just widening the offending slots just a tiny bit is all that is required. You can use torch tip cleaners or a guitar string and you wont have that problem again. Works on every Gibson ive had the problem with.


One of the reasons I eventually came to the conclusion that I am a Strat guy was because of tuning and intonation issues on every Gibson or Epiphone I ever owned. However, in my case, tuning stability represented only about 25% of my complaints. Intonation was always the bulk of it.


Original design does not have this issue.
Original design has Nylon 6/6 nut.

It is physically impossible to make string bind in slots of Nylon nut. It has 'self lubricated' surface.

Free market likes ignorant customer more. Cause ignorant customer generates more profit. So, market teaches customers hacks instead of teaching them facts.

CNC produced pre shaped Nylon 6/6 nuts, unlike those manually shaped for originals. Just sand the bottom for optimal action, if needed.

But why bother. Let the customer solve the non issue, while spending more money and doing these forum threads.

Some might call it exploiting the ignorance.

Ask youself a simple question - why you never read that original LP nuts were made of Nylon 6/6?

Surely, you can estimate what you just read in this post is irrelevant and by doing so you will prove the claim by which free market operates is correct- there is no exploiting the ignorance, it is nothing but a punishment well deserved.

Do not believe. Go play any post 2009 Gibson Custom Shop LP and make it's factory stock Nylon 6/6 nut bind string in it's slots.

CNC. 2020. Makes no sense that any LP has nut made of material that is not Nylon 6/6.

Free market is desgned with intent to exploit incompetence. It is customer's obligation to self protect and prevent it by becoming competent.


Just don't do any string bends or vibrato. Your music will be soulless, but you'll be soulless in tune.


Nobody is thinking it's by accident but I've never heard a compelling reasoning to why they do this. Maybe it's because some people think more break angle equals more sustain or something (it doesn't). I personally think the strings fanning out is much more of a problem.
It is curious. I'd say it was a holdover from the pre-pickup years, but they flattened the angle in the 1960's for a while. It looks unusual to not have that Gibson step angle but they have less issues. And then they went back to the step angle - for a reason?

Dr. Tinnitus

So after 11 minutes, the point is to keep the string moving off the tuner at the top of the winds. If that's it, this could be a 30 second video and is easy enough to try.


So after 11 minutes, the point is to keep the string moving off the tuner at the top of the winds. If that's it, this could be a 30 second video and is easy enough to try.
That and I've always assumed that this was fairly common knowledge since the day that I learned about it in 1968.:rolleyes:


So after 11 minutes, the point is to keep the string moving off the tuner at the top of the winds. If that's it, this could be a 30 second video and is easy enough to try.
Yeah, that's guy's videos have increasingly become loaded with filler material and BS. He's clearly a decent player but he's falling into the clickbait trap, like so many others.


Platinum Supporting Member
Not a terrible idea presented- a simple way to lessen the break angle.


Basically, when you string the G, B, and E string, you simply string/wind up rather than down...
It's more of a problem on Gibson because of the high angled headstock (17deg), less of a problem on Epiphones (12deg), and even less on PRS (9deg). This changes the downward pressure in the nut slots. It also reduces the propensity to break the headstocks off.

The 'splay' of the tuners away from straight string pull on Gibson is higher, less on Epiphones, and all straight string pull on PRS. This changes the side loading pressure in the nut slots.

Avoid greasing the nut slots -- greases attract dirt and grit that over time increase the friction. Use dry graphite 'lock lube' or the #2 pencil trick, as a better long term solution.

Gibson guitars main early products were mandolins .. then they just carried over the headstock/neck design to steel string instruments -- so it wasn't designed to hold up against the modern rigors and thus they snap easily. Gibson needs to redesign against breakage and tuning but are fearful... and enjoying the number of players who buy replacement instruments.

Whenever I see Gibson guitars being played ... they have begun to take on the appearance of the antique Lutes for the super high headstock angle compared to PRS and Fender necks.

Most youtuber's know that Youtube pays the most for videos that are over 10 minutes long. So they edit all content to fit just over that minimum or longer.



Silver Supporting Member
There are far cheaper ways to sound out of tune!!

Just teasing. I played a Gibson classic for a decade and I loved them and had no tuning issues. Not sure what happened but now I much prefer the 25.5” scale. I’ve had 4 different Gibson’s the past couple years trying to bring back that love I had for them. Weird how preferences change.
I understand how preferences change, and although I'm full on Les Paul fan (I own three historics R4 R7 R0, and two Heritage H150s), I have been playing my Zemaitis guitars lately which are 25" scale, and a PRS Custom 22. The neck position tones are quite a bit different than Les Pauls, not better, just a fun diversion...

I did change the tuners on this one, not because of instability, I just didn't like the way they work or look:)

1994 Zemaitis Custom 22 - this one stay in tune quite nicely (schaller top locking M6 tuners)

ZemaitisCS22 DCP NT - pretty much defines the term "stays in tune" (gotoh SG510 tuners)

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