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GLS or Nuetrik locking chassis mount connectors for PT2

WhoJamFan

Silver Supporting Member
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2,573
Wanting to add locking chassis connectors to my Pedaltrain 2 and it seems both the GLS and Nuetrick locking 1/4 inch chassis mounts will work. Looking for the solder yourself ones, not the barrels. Anybody tried or seen both? They both appear all metal and heavy duty, and I just want to make this purchase once. Thanks for any advice or other options.
 

WhoJamFan

Silver Supporting Member
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2,573
Wow, finally find that the GLS are plastic-well, I guess I answered my own question. Any advantages over going long barrel on the Nuetriks other than no soldering? Need a heavy duty solution to taking the stress of the guitar and amp cables off of the jacks of my pedals.
 

stinkfoot

Member
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6,138
The Neutrik locking connectors come with the chassis isolated from the signal ground (which is what you want, but you can remove the isolation if you for some reason want to change). I don't know if the GLS ones are isolated, but it's something to look into. If they aren't, I'd go Neutrik. If they are, I'd imagine either should work.
 

stinkfoot

Member
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6,138
Wow, finally find that the GLS are plastic-well, I guess I answered my own question. Any advantages over going long barrel on the Nuetriks other than no soldering? Need a heavy duty solution to taking the stress of the guitar and amp cables off of the jacks of my pedals.


Are the GLS ones plastic? That would solve the isolation need, of course. But I'd probably go Neutrik anyway. I'm not familiar with the long barrel ones, so I can't say if they're isolated too.
 

CodeMonk

Member
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1,676
The Neutrik locking connectors come with the chassis isolated from the signal ground (which is what you want, but you can remove the isolation if you for some reason want to change). I don't know if the GLS ones are isolated, but it's something to look into. If they aren't, I'd go Neutrik. If they are, I'd imagine either should work.
FYI (Although I'm sure stinky knows it), you DO NOT want those connectors grounded to the pedalboard chassis. That will cause a noisy ground loop.
And I speak from personal experience.
 

WhoJamFan

Silver Supporting Member
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2,573
I had planned on grounding through the cable to the pedal connector. Is there a better way? I'm using a pp2 + and an ISO-5, so every pedal is isolated.
 

CodeMonk

Member
Messages
1,676
I had planned on grounding through the cable to the pedal connector. Is there a better way? I'm using a pp2 + and an ISO-5, so every pedal is isolated.
That should be fine.
You just don't want your main input and output jacks grounded to the pedalboard chassis.
In my case, I had originally used standard jacks and attached them both to a piece of angle aluminum and screwed that into my Pedaltrain.
Ground loop hell.
I ended up getting a cheap plastic project box from Radioshack and mounted them both inside that and no more ground loop noise.

But if the ground on the sockets you use are electrically isolated from each other, I see no problems.
 

WhoJamFan

Silver Supporting Member
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2,573
Yeah, wanted to avoid a little box with jacks for this. Grounding the jack to the cable shouldn't be any different than plugging into the pedal directly right?
 

stinkfoot

Member
Messages
6,138
FYI (Although I'm sure stinky knows it), you DO NOT want those connectors grounded to the pedalboard chassis. That will cause a noisy ground loop.
And I speak from personal experience.
Yup - that's what I thought I said :) The Neutriks can be set up either isolated or with chassis and signal ground connected. They come isolated from the factory, and that's how you want them.

Yeah, wanted to avoid a little box with jacks for this. Grounding the jack to the cable shouldn't be any different than plugging into the pedal directly right?
As long as the jacks only transfer the two connections (hot/tip and ground/sleeve) through, it'll be the same as plugging right into the pedals, yes. The signal grounds in the jacks will be connected through the pedal chain, but should not be allowed to take a shortcut via the two jacks directly - hence the need for chassis isolation.

Looking at the image, the red plastic sleeve on the screw on the side provides isolation. If you remove the sleeve (putting the screw back without it), the jack will no longer be isolated. Also, the NJ3FP6C is a stereo/TRS jack - to use it with mono/TS cables, just skip the "ring" connection.
 

jnepo1

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
15,563
Use the Neutriks, they are solid. And also get the boot for the jacks so the wires and solder joints are covered.
 

WhoJamFan

Silver Supporting Member
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2,573
Boot? Is that the long silver barrel I see on some folks boards? I plan on installing these on both sides of the board so the connection to the pedal is shortest and there's minimal loss.
 

jnepo1

Gold Supporting Member
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15,563
The boot is a nylon boot that slides over the rear of the chassis. It covers the back end and all the terminals.
 

stinkfoot

Member
Messages
6,138
Das Boot (also known as the SCDR):



Cut off the tapered end to fit the cable diameter (before soldering ;)). I'd also try to secure the cables to the board rails (using standoffs and cable ties) so the solder joints won't come under stress when wiggling the cables around.
 

CodeMonk

Member
Messages
1,676
Oops, made an error.
Actually, I still do use the angle aluminum to mount my input/output jacks on the pedaltrain.
But I use plastic cased jacks (Yeah, they cheap ones that are supposed to be PCB mount).
But they have worked for over 5 years so far.
 

WhoJamFan

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
2,573
Anybody know a store in LosAngeles area that I could walk in and buy some at? Need to get this board rollin this weekend and shipping on these little parts costs more than they do and will take a week to get. Thanks!
 




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