Hamer Finish Repair

Discussion in 'Luthier's Guitar & Bass Technical Discussion' started by magpie74, Apr 3, 2015.

  1. magpie74

    magpie74 Member

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    My Hamer USA Studio P-90 recently fell face first out of its guitar stand and suffered what I first thought was a broken headstock. After inspecting it more closely, I'm not convinced the wood is damaged; it looks as though the headstock flexed forward on impact, lifting the finish away from the back of the neck and shattering it, but the neck itself seems intact.

    The problem is, I'm not sure what to do next. I'm not that concerned about cosmetics, so I could just glue the finish back in place, sand it smooth and call it a day. However, if the wood is cracked after all, it needs to be fixed, and it seems the only way to know for sure is to remove the finish around the affected area.

    Unfortunately, a touch-up or refinish won't be in the budget for quite some time. What would you guys suggest in the meantime?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. B. Howard

    B. Howard Silver Supporting Member

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    Looks a lot like a crack in the wood from what I see.
     
  3. AdmiralB

    AdmiralB Silver Supporting Member

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    I would suggest taking/sending it to a good repair person to make sure there's no wood damage - and to repair it if there is.

    Hamer used, starting in '92, a catalyzed finish similar to basecoat/clearcoat auto paint. Someone here like Stike will know the details.

    If it were me, for a finish repair, I'd mix some lacquer to color-match, then airbrush something like DuPont 2K clear over it.
     
  4. magpie74

    magpie74 Member

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    Thanks for the replies, guys. I removed a small area of finish and there is a very tiny crack in the wood underneath, so I'll need to repair that after all.

    First, any suggestions for removing the finish? I talked with the owner of the shop I teach at, who is one of the best when it comes to horn repairs, and he recommended I apply paint stripper with a q-tip to the affected areas. If there's a better way I'd love to hear it, along with recommendations for specific products.

    Second, I'd imagine it'll take a pretty thin glue to seal the crack; there just isn't much of a break to work with. What glue is best in these situations? Given the nature of the break, I'm wondering if it even needs to be glued -- if reapplying the finish wouldn't essentially do the same thing.

    Thanks again for all your help!
     
  5. B. Howard

    B. Howard Silver Supporting Member

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    Finish is not glue! It will not bond things or hold them together. If it is a poly finish I would use a heat gun to soften the finish and remove the section of finish that has already popped loose.

    I can't examine it from here but in some cases the break must be forced open a bit to get glue in. Titebond type 1 wood glue is good for these repairs. You can thin it with a few drops of water but if you make it too thin it will not bond. Sometimes I use a small suction cup as a pump to force glue into cracks. The break is at least in an easy spot to clamp up.
     
  6. RCM78

    RCM78 Member

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    Send it to Greg Platzer at BCR Music in PA.
     

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