Hand-painting & Guitars

Discussion in 'Guitars in General' started by m4tt, Jul 5, 2006.


  1. m4tt

    m4tt Member

    Messages:
    450
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2005
    Location:
    Toronto
    After going gaga over the crash strats (http://www.crashocasters.com/), I've been thinking of doing a similiar design with hand-paint. Although, I'm not sure what kind of paint I should look for.

    Recommendations? Instructions?

    While we're on this topic, feel free to post pics of your hand-painted guitars.

    edit: Forgot to mention that I would probably just tape off the body and use reranch paint as the base... handpaint for stencil/brush work.
     
  2. Luke

    Luke Senior Member

    Messages:
    11,903
    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2005
    Do not use acrylics, they never dry. Most guitars are painted with automotive finishes.
     
  3. photoguy

    photoguy Member

    Messages:
    2,533
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2005
    Location:
    Everybody's gotta be somewhere.
    Crash's background is as a graffiti *artist*. My guess is that Krylon is his medium of choice.
     
  4. MartinPiana

    MartinPiana Supporting Member

    Messages:
    3,870
    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2006
    Location:
    SoCal
    Just finishing one -- literally. Started with a new, unfinished swamp ash tele body from Warmoth. Used Stew Mac grain filler. Gave the body and Stew Mac's number to an artist friend. She used nitro base, adding and mixing tints. She sprayed the whole thing first, for a base coat (a dark gray blue) (not primer, but the background color). Then she did some light highlight spray, which left flecks (intentional). Then she went to the brush. The nitro chewed up her first brushes. Don't know what she ended up using. Painted with as light a hand as possible. ... The guitar had sat a month before I started with the clear coat nitro. Probably 18 coats in all. After the first three, waited a week. Light sand until I hit paint -- the problem with handpainting is that if you want a mirror smooth finish, you have problems in that some of the handpainting will be higher than other parts. So I sprayed another five coats, sanded until I hit paint again (very careful not to sand thru the paint!!!). Then another five coats, sand. By this point, it was mirror smooth -- I'd built up enough clear coat on the lower parts of the paint job.... My sanding was 400 grit, then 600 grit wet 0r dry, until the final sanding phase. I've let it sit a month before that final sanding. Start with 600 and will got 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000 etc.... You can read more on finishing elsewhere. The decision you have to make is whether you want a glass-smooth hand-painted guitar -- if so, it's going to take a lot of clear coat and careful sanding.... Art, btw, is from Joan Miro. Gorgeous.
     
  5. gururyan

    gururyan Member

    Messages:
    4,854
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2003
    Location:
    south of hell
    I gotta see this.
    I am a Miro fan.
     
  6. pfflam

    pfflam Silver Supporting Member

    Messages:
    7,057
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2005
    Location:
    PDX: The Rose City
    I painted mine: first, after sand/sealer I put two kinds of primer: sandable car primer-grey and a sort of dark burnt Sienna, I wanted to take into account wear and the brown will wear down nicely and show well with the colors that wear-off.

    I then taped off areas and used Krylon and Rustoleum spray . . . the colors were not absolutely right but they provided a good base.

    I then used enamel Railroad model paints (not highly recommended but, in the small town from which I am soon moving, that's all I could get in the right colors) I then added layers of lightly sponged color-over, to provide a kind of faux-styling and allow you to see into the lower layers of color, keeping the undercoat visible sporadically. The light blue has three different scumble-color layers.


    I then sprayed light layers of Nitro over that - warning: if you didn't want it too wear-down or eventually chip then you should probably consider Poly to really lock the colors tight.

    I have a few quams with the Orange, but all in all, I love it. In the future I will probably use a better primer - there are luthiers in Portland (where I am moving) that can probably point me to truly archival-guitar finish material.

    ANyway, the pictures don't really show the layers well, but I grey-out the background in some o show the colors better:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. m4tt

    m4tt Member

    Messages:
    450
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2005
    Location:
    Toronto
    thanks guys :)

    love to see pics of that Miro aswell...
     
  8. The Golden Boy

    The Golden Boy Member

    Messages:
    19,352
    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2005
    Location:
    upyerasskickinfootballs
    Krylon- the guitar finish of champions.

    :p

    (my Tele is done with Krylon "almond")
     
  9. paintguy

    paintguy Long Hair Hippy Freak Silver Supporting Member

    Messages:
    5,450
    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2005
    Location:
    Los Angeles, Ca
    I'm glad to see someone understands what kind of sanding is involved in refinishing. Wow!!! Final sanding= 600, 800,1000,1200,1500, 2000 etc....
    And that's just the final sanding:AOK
     
  10. MartinPiana

    MartinPiana Supporting Member

    Messages:
    3,870
    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2006
    Location:
    SoCal
    I suspect I'll be posting the Mirocaster all over the place once it's done! Finally in the home stretch of a long project. Happy to hear of the interest.... May be asking directions in loading a jpg onto the discussion board when the time comes.... I'll second PFFLAM's note that poly is more durable and it doesn't yellow like nitro. If I do another "art" guitar intended for playing, as this one is, I'll prolly go poly....
     

Share This Page