HELP: Did I Make a Mistake?

Discussion in 'The Sound Hound Lounge' started by deandavis, May 11, 2015.

  1. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Hey all,

    I recently received a replacement Fender decal for my guitar and I'm looking to get some feedback.

    I followed all the instructions but it looks as though the decal didn't apply as uniformly as I would have liked.

    As you can see in the below picture it looks like in some parts there is a whitish film behind the decal, whereas in other areas it does not seem to be the case.

    This photo was taken about an hour or so after I applied the decal:


    [​IMG]



    Two questions:

    1) Do you think this whitish film behind the decal will disappear as the decal dries over the next 24 hours?
    2) If not, do you think I'll be able to hide this whitish film by lacquering over it?


    Thanks,
    DD
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2015
  2. filtersweep

    filtersweep Member

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    Is that even cut right?
     
  3. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Yep! It is as. Anyone know if the whitish backing will disappear as it dries or with lacquer?
     
  4. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Thanks ripple - but it looks like Decal Set is pre-treatment and I've already applied the decal.

    Anyone else have any ideas?
     
  5. ripple

    ripple To keep fresh, keep capped & cold. Silver Supporting Member

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    Oops - I tried to edit my post and deleted by mistake.

    How about Liquid Decal Film, Dean?? (by MicroScale Industries)

    I just checked the bottle (I had the name wrong) and that is what Ive used on my last bunch pedal builds to clean up the decals when I first put 'em on.

    Its not the same as Decal Set (which I think is basically distilled vinegar), and is used to rescue old decals, as well.

    Good luck!
     
  6. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Thanks ripple - but I don't think that will work either as Liquid Decal Film just applies a film over the decal to protect it. Also, since I'm lacquering over it this might react to the lacquer.
     
  7. ripple

    ripple To keep fresh, keep capped & cold. Silver Supporting Member

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    Sorry Dean - that's all I got...

    Good luck!
     
  8. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Not a problem ripple; I appreciate your help!

    Anyone else ever run into this in the past? Will lacquering over it help hide this?
     
  9. SteveO

    SteveO Member

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    The whitish areas are air gaps.
     
  10. ggwwbb

    ggwwbb Member

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    I'd give it a day or two to completely set up and dry out....I wish I could tell you that it definitely will, but unfortunately I can't say that..... I'd be willing to bet that it will go away.
     
  11. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Thanks for your input SteveO; but I'm not certain that they are. I've rubbed them out with paper towel when applying and moved all their air bubbles out. I'm thinking its more likely that the whitish areas are non-disolved glue.
     
  12. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Thanks ggwwbb; do you think it will go away with time or once I bury it with lacquer?
     
  13. sanrico

    sanrico Member

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    Please post a pic of the decal tomorrow. It's a great learning experience for anyone who uses these (unfortunately at your expense). I'm curious as to whether those white spots will clear up...kind of like window tint does after a few days.
     
  14. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Here's one comparing right after application, to five hours later:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    And here's to add some more frustration, it looks great straight-on:

    [​IMG]
     
  16. ggwwbb

    ggwwbb Member

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    Personally, I'd give it a few days or even about a week before lacquering it......I wouldn't be surprised to see that they disappear by then.....if you lacquer it now, there's no way it will disappear as it will be trapped under the lacquer.
     
  17. deandavis

    deandavis Member

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    Hey all - after 2 days the decal didn't dry out any further. I've determined that it's likely a result of the glue not having been fully melted/separated from warm enough water. On my first attempt I used water closer to the colder end of the "warm" spectrum to avoid a shrivling up of the decal. This go-around I used a hotter end of the "warm" spectrum. I first used a test piece of decal material to make sure it wasn't so hot that it would shrivel. On the second application it went flawlessly!

    TLDR = if you use too hot of water your decal will shrivel, but if you use too cold of a water your decal glue won't separate right leaving a whitish background on your decal.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2015
  18. Rockinrob86

    Rockinrob86 Supporting Member

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    I usually put warm to hot water in a bowl with a little wood glue mixed in well. I drop the decal in the bowl, while at the same time sprinkling hot to warm water on the headstock. The backing comes off the decal, it will curl up, and I careful transfer it to the water on the headstock. This allows you to move it around, get it into position, etc.

    I use the paper towel to absorb most of the water, then push out air bubbles.

    At this point it looks perfect.

    Also, back in the day these were not lacquered over and would be left at this stage. I've left all of my partscasters like this and it works fine.
     
  19. swiveltung

    swiveltung Member

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    Looks like air gaps to me. Do you know if the surface was completely clean? Any wax, oil residue is a problem. On newly finished wood even the smallest roughness or non level surface will be a problem also. I doubt that will go away.
    The other issue is if it soaks in water just a touch too long, the sticky surface goes away and it wont lay down flat and stick. That could be your problem. I under soak if anything now. I test it and as soon as it starts to slide at all get it out of the water. If it curls you've left it too long.
     
  20. sanrico

    sanrico Member

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    Thank you for sharing this information. This is super helpful.
     

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