+10000Originally posted by MichaelK
Dan Erlewine's book "How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great" is very good, as is his earlier book "Guitar Player Repair Guide." Plenty of pictures and detail, suggested tools etc.
To measure action a short ruler is required that measures in units as small as 1/32 of an inch, 1/64 is better. I use an inexpensive 6" stainless steel ruler purchased at Office Depot.Originally posted by SeeU 22
Yeah I know. Everyone should know how to do their own setups what can I say I've been a little lazy.
Can anyone point me to a good guide for doing setups. Online or other wise.
Besides a tuner what other tools will I need to properly do this.
Possibly, but that's the reason for doing relief, then nut height, then bridge height, then intonation - it's the order in which each adjustment affects the following ones the least. Still, you do sometimes have to readjust things after playing the guitar once it's finished - thoroughly - this is a critical part of the process and very often skipped, since it may seem like 'time wasting', but it isn't at all.Originally posted by spaceboy
John, are there things you'd have to re-do after chaging something else? eg. Mightn't you have to redo the relief after changing the nut height?
It's usually best, yes - but sometimes (eg on a vintage guitar with its original nut) you don't really want to. Then, if the amount it needs to be raised is small, I'll remove the nut if it can be got out in one piece, and glue a strip of paper to the underside (with superglue, it's extremely strong for this kind of thing) - you don't see it once the nut is back in place. Very occasionally if it's just one or two grooves that are too low, I'll fill them (after cleaning and roughening) with a mixture of superglue and powdered bone or plastic pressed hard into place with a knife blade, then recut the groove. This actually works very well and isn't as much of a bodge as it sounds...Oh, and how do you raise the nut...? would you need a new one?
Not so much, but you have to be careful how you do that - a common mistake is to tighten down the six (or two) screws at the front of the bridgeplate too far, which can cause all sorts of trouble. Leaving them too high does too - there's a very precise correct adjustment for them, when the bridge is just pulled perfectly flat on the top. Start with them all too loose, then tighten each one down until the bridge just starts to lift at the back, then back off a tiny bit. If you do the outer two first, it's easy to feel the correct point for the other four as they just hit the top of the plate. This is also the right height if you want the bridge floating, BTW - so you need to do it first in any case.one more thing ^_^ do tremolo bridges still complicate things if it's blocked? (it's only blocked by screwing all 5 springs all the way down though)