Getting a no-drag, mirror finish is a lot easier and much faster if you don't get deep scratches to begin with. Take a little extra time using finer grits in the leveling and crowning processes, and you should find that getting that fine polish is much easier. It only takes a few extra passes when using 400- or 600-grit on your leveling beam to get the tops perfectly level, and you don't get deep scratches that take forever to polish out with a finer grit, and can actually ruin that level plane. Likewise with the crowning process. I think I used my nice 150-grit diamond crowning file once! It was way too coarse! Three hundred grit is even more aggressive than I really need, and if I am working on small, delicate frets I won't even use something like that to crown. I will rather use a fine, triangular file by Waverly, so I leave behind a fairly smooth surface that is much easier to clean up. One of these inspection scopes can make the process a lot less mysterious, until you get a feel for a really effective and efficient polishing schedule: It takes a little practice to get them focused on the work plane, but they give you an extremely detailed picture of what all those different grits and media are doing. I found I started using less steps after I could actually see what the surface looked like. It saved time and money, and got me to a surgical-grade surface. Final polishing can be done with a felt wheel on a Dremel, but you want to shield the board well, and move up and down the neck several times, because those soft little innocent-looking wheels can generate brutal heat, quickly! Here's a quick-and-dirty polishing medium, for the very experienced hand who is in a hurry. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-.../rubber-abrasive-wheels/wheels-prod41793.aspx https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ints/replacement-bullet-points-prod41792.aspx https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...rasive-accessories/abrasive-kit-prod5180.aspx Practice on scrap with these babies! You can cut through railroad rails with these things if you are not careful, but if you feel the need to remove material in a hurry, this is one way to do it. They are typically used on steel, so... I probably shouldn't have even mentioned the Cratex.