How to mount speakers in new empty cab

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by joebor, Jan 22, 2012.

  1. joebor

    joebor Member

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    I looked around for something on this and had limited results, so I thought I'd check with you guys. Does anyone have a good link to share, or even some tips? I am using a new Seismic 2x12 cabinet (1/2" plywood), and installing a GT12-75 and a Vintage 30. I know I'll need to drill pilot holes. What I'm not sure is:
    • Whether to front or rear mount the speakers.
    • What sort of gasket material (or RTV sealant?) to use if front mounting. The speakers already have a gasket on the outside of the rim, presumably for rear mounting.
    • Whether to screw the screws directly into the wood or use some sort of mounting hardware. I doubt I'll be swapping speakers in and out, if that makes a difference.
    Thanks!
     
  2. Floyd Eye

    Floyd Eye Member

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    The gasket is not there for rear mounting. It's there for the screws/bolts that will go through the rim. Rear mounting is a pain in the ass. I would front mount them and simply run wood screws with washers. No sealant or gasket. Or you could drill holes, install threaded eyelets through the rear of the hole and use bolts. Whatever you use, think about the probability of needing to remove the speaker at some point in the future. You will gain very little by using any sort of sealant that will be difficult to remove ( plumbers dope may not be so bad I guess).
     
  3. Floyd Eye

    Floyd Eye Member

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    Also DO pre-drill the holes and use a hand screwdriver for mounting. Using a screw gun is just asking for it.
     
  4. wgs1230

    wgs1230 Fully Intonatable Silver Supporting Member

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    The above is good advice. Also, rear-mounting to 1/2" plywood places additional stress on the apertures that can lead to cracks in the wood between them with every-day mechanical shock.
     
  5. SteveO

    SteveO Member

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    Since you have to drill the holes anyway, you might as well use T-nuts & machine screws and do it right. :)
     
  6. cap'n'crunch

    cap'n'crunch Member

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    Check the speaker hole cutout diameter to make sure they can be front loaded. Not sure if Siesmic cuts the holes big enough. Also, does the grill cloth frame come out to allow for front mounting?

    Agree with a previous poster who said to do it the right way with T-nuts and machine screws.
     
  7. Floyd Eye

    Floyd Eye Member

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    :agree
     
  8. cap'n'crunch

    cap'n'crunch Member

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    I don't see this being a problem as long as they are mounted with t-nuts and machines screws. You may be under estimating the strength of 1/2" plywood especially if its birch ply like they claim as the wood grains in the plys are alternated making it pretty tough. Anyway, use T-nuts (aka hurricane nuts).
     
  9. rockonomics

    rockonomics Member

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    I agree with the T nut posters. I'm surprised the cab didn't come with T nuts and proper screws.
     
  10. joebor

    joebor Member

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    Thanks to you all, this all great information and very helpful. So I think I know what you mean by t nuts, but are those generally available at a hardware store?
    Thanks again!
     
  11. SteveO

    SteveO Member

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    Yes, they are pretty easy to find. The Ace Hardware near me carries them.

    Some people drive them in completely with a hammer, but I prefer to use an allen-head screw with a fender washer to sink them in place. The allen head handles the torque required (using a hex wrench), where a standard phillips screw will strip out before you are halfway there.
     
  12. joebor

    joebor Member

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    Thanks, I just found some at home depot. They are 1/4-20 and have the little spikes to hammer in. Guess I'll need to be real careful with the screws!
     
  13. woof*

    woof* Member

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    I'm suprized a new cabinet didn't come with holes drilled, T nuts installed, and the proper machine screws. I've never heard of that before.
     
  14. joebor

    joebor Member

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    Well, I received the cab--it's perfectly acceptable quality, actually better than I expected. It did have t-nuts installed, but only for rear mount, and did not include the machine screws. But the jack was all wired and ready to go, so that was nice. I ended up installing t nuts for front mounting as you guys recommended--thanks again for the advice!
     
  15. TimSt.L

    TimSt.L Member

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    Very true... no reason to take an easy way out. You will want to do it right. There have been theories as to why rear mounting is sonically "better" but I don't know how much I believe it if they're properly installed in the front.

    And great speaker choice by the way! That's exactly what I put in my 4:12's! And I love it. I'll never go back to all vin 30's or all g12's.
     
  16. GearHeadFred

    GearHeadFred Member

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    Important:

    - Don't over tighten the screws! They don't need to be super tight - just snug +1 !
    - Tighten the screws gradually in a X pattern so you don't warp the frames
     
  17. stratovarius

    stratovarius Supporting Member

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    This idea that speakers should always be front mounted is a new one to me. There are quite a few manufacturers out there who are doing it the other way around. What is the thinking on this, other than to get easy access from the front?
     
  18. TimSt.L

    TimSt.L Member

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    I would think that is exactly it. Many of my cabs were front mount. And I would bet in an assembly line, front mount is easier, which in turn means quicker, and then ultimately means cheaper to produce. Some don't compromise on this though, insisting it has a better seal due to air pressures inside while the speakers are acting. Which kinda makes sense I guess.
     

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