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IEC Connector, Rivets?

Discussion in 'Amps/Cabs Tech Corner: Amplifier, Cab & Speakers' started by aortizjr, Dec 12, 2005.

  1. aortizjr

    aortizjr Member

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    Nov 24, 2004
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    So as many of you may remember I am working on a Sunn 200S. Just finished the cap job and now replacing the extremely old cable.

    The new cable I bought doesn't fit with the strain releif. So I figure while I am drilling I might as well make the amp more conveinant and put an IEC connector on it (Removable power cord). So I pulled one off an old computer power supply.

    Now attaching it... if I rivet it, do you think the plastic will hold up to the pressure? Or should i try and actually screw it in?
     
  2. Shea

    Shea Member

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    Sep 7, 2004
    Have you considered getting another strain relief? They come in a variety of sizes, to suit different cable thicknesses and hole sizes.

    Shea
     
  3. aortizjr

    aortizjr Member

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    I have... I even considered just doing the good ol' tie a knot in the cord trick.

    But I figure by the time I do the research on the strain relief (would have to be online since I don't have good suppliers locally), buy probably a couple and such, I might as well dremel it out, drill the holds, and rivet/screw it in.

    Rivets have handy, screws that size I don't, nor do I have the tools to thread it properly. So nut and bold's it will be, if I go that route and take a trip to the hardware store.

    I considered trying to keep things original for the value of the amp. But stock the thing is a death trap, and an IEC would make it easier to use/carry/etc.
     
  4. Shea

    Shea Member

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    Sep 7, 2004
    Here's all the research you need: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/624/1336.pdf

    Well, it's not like your only two choices are keeping the original cord or installing an IEC socket.

    Are you going to try to make a rectangular hole with that dremel, or did you find an IEC socket that mounts in a round hole?

    Shea
     
  5. RL in Fla

    RL in Fla Member

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    I'd use a rubber grommet on it to go thru the chassis hole to keep it from skinning or rubbing and then put one of these on it inside , that way you drill one hole for a screw/nut and you're done . Ace hardware oughta have em both .
     
  6. aortizjr

    aortizjr Member

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    Nov 24, 2004
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Thanks for the link. I will look and get measurements. I was planning on making a rectangular hole. The existing hole is almost an oval. More like a rectangle with rounded top and bottom.

    (--------)
    (----------)
    (--------)

    or something like that (yay for ASCII art) take out the middle -'s the forum won't do spaces. The cord is a 16 AWG 3 conductor cable, I think SJT. Molded power plug, raw end.
     
  7. aortizjr

    aortizjr Member

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    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Ahh I noticed that they do have some for unusual sizes. I will do some measurements and see.

    Another question though.... is there something wrong with using an IEC connector instead of going hardwired?

    It just seems that all the suggestions have been to continue to hardwire.
     
  8. Shea

    Shea Member

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    Sep 7, 2004
    I don't think there's anything wrong with IEC connections per se.

    I just think leaving the hole as it is and getting another strain relief would go a long way toward preserving some of the value in that amp, at least compared to trying to dremel out a rectangular hole. I personally would never buy an old amp that had a dremeled-out hole like that, unless it sounded really, really awesome and was selling for really, really cheap.

    But just replacing the cord and the strain relief, and leaving the hole original, should have only a negligible effect on the value or no effect at all.

    If the amp is one of those models that will never be worth much anyway, then go about it however you want. Well, that's your right regardless.

    Shea
     
  9. aortizjr

    aortizjr Member

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    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Yeah I agree to that...

    It is a Sunn 200S which are rare and pretty good sounding with a lot of work.

    This one has seen better days... but even in perfect condition most people get ~$300 for them right now. This one is missing so much stuff and is in pretty bad shape overall.

    Plus the amount of mods necessary to make them usable will do interesting things to their value already.

    I don't really see the value of them doing well, but I guess you really never know.

    If this one still had the name plates and all the markings were still in tact I wouldn't even consider touching the chassis. However, since it has previous mods (by other owners) to the electronics and most of the outside is trashed, I think in this case chassis work is ok.

    But I will see if I can find a strain relief that will fit first, I would rather not drill/route if I don't have to.
     
  10. Richard Guy

    Richard Guy Member

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    Location:
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    I would use machine screws and lock washers to mount the IEC. Some of them 'press-in' having tabs that lock in place as long as your IEC opening is made correctly. A second thought would be a rubber grommet and a ty-wrap behind it. :)
     

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