Installing George L's...A little help for an Idiot?

Discussion in 'Effects, Pedals, Strings & Things' started by granite, Jul 29, 2006.

  1. granite

    granite Member

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    OK...I must be an idiot. Can someone explain to me how to install George L's?

    I have right angle plugs. I cut the cable to length (straight cut/no stripping), insert the cable into the little hole in the bottom of the plug, bend it slightly toward the right angle notch, screw the end cap back on. It appears to pierce the cable slightly.

    I connect two pedals, plug in....nothing. I try connecting the two pedals with a pre-made cable. It works.

    What am I doing wrong?
     
  2. Serious Poo

    Serious Poo Armchair Rocket Scientist Graffiti Existentialist Gold Supporting Member

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    How funny, I just built a pedalboard an hour ago with these. I usually never have probs, but when I do it's always because I failed to do one of these things:
    • Making sure the cable is cleanly cut before inserting it.
    • Making sure the cable is completely inserted before capping it.
    • Making sure the cap is tightened all the way.
    When in doubt, recut the wire by 1/8" and trying again.
     
  3. Flyin' Brian

    Flyin' Brian Member

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    Don't cut it with diagonal pliers...they will crush the cable before they cut it. Use a shear-type cutter, a very sharp knife or even a sharp utility knife with a good razor blade. Make sure you get the cable in all the way and don't be shy about how much you bend it before you screw the cap on. Works for me every time.
     
  4. jbert58

    jbert58 Member

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    If you have a nice straight clean cut (I use an exacto knife), your problem is most likely caused by not pushing the cable all the way in. It has to be pushed to the very bottom of the cavity in the plug in order to sit on the center pin before you bend and screw the cap on.

    A little practice and it becomes easy and foolproof.

    Good luck!
     
  5. Matt F

    Matt F Member

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    Yup.. Used the poultry shears. No problems :AOK
     
  6. cvansickle

    cvansickle Supporting Member

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    After inserting the cable into the plug, don't hold it down while you tighten the thumbscrew. Instead, let the cable ease up as you tighten the screw.

    I used to have troubles too until somebody enlightened me with that tip. I use George Ls frequently, and I always get a good connection first time every time.
     
  7. LavaMan

    LavaMan Gold Supporting Member

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    You're not using solder...:D It's a cable thread....I just haaaaaad to chime in....
     
  8. granite

    granite Member

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    If I can't get the George Ls to work on my own, I'll give you a ring. You can make a couple of an inch and a quarter George L right? :)
     
  9. LavaMan

    LavaMan Gold Supporting Member

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    That is really tight...2-3" maybe...the G&H plugs I use have a little bigger profile (not much) than the George L ones...it's important to have a little stress relief...
     
  10. StompBoxBlues

    StompBoxBlues Member

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    I recently went over to George L's. Since then, I calculated the other day, because of board rearranging, I think I have made about 40 cables so far.

    Of those, I have had a couple that weren't right, right off the bat (haven't had ANY go bad though after first being good). Behringer makes a little cable tester that costs very little and can test virtually ALL (except the speaker Quick-on or whatever they are called) cable which is really essential because you can plug ANY plug into any other plug, see the LED matrix to see all connections are like they ought to be, and this is the best part...you can then jiggle, beat, slam the cable all you want and if there is an intermittent short or open, the intermittent LED lights ans stays lit, saving you putting in a nightmare cable.

    On the George L's...I use cable cutters sometimes, but because they flatten the end a touch, I just use my fingers to squeeze it back "round" before inserting in the right angle connector. Also, I tend to twist it (or "screw it in") slightly to feel that it "hit bottom" there. But then it is just as you wrote, you bend it...JUST enough so that cap screw thingy can thread on there...so it is just a slight bend, then screw it down WITH ONLY FINGERS...no pliers or anything like that. I take it as far as I can then try one more half turn. When putting the other end on, I make sure it is alilgned the way it will sit...so I don't have to twist any cable or anything.

    Then I test it in the Behringer cable tester. 99% of the time, it is fine.

    That's about all I can help with, just try a couple of times (use the same wire, just cut off again and again, and retry) and you'll get it.
     
  11. stompbox

    stompbox Member

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    when was the last time you checked your batteries in your pedals? :) (stranger things have happened)
     
  12. Babaji

    Babaji Member

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    I've used George L's since the mid 1980's. Do the following:
    1) After you cut the cable, inspect the end to see if any shield wire is touching the center. Use some needlenose plyers to make the end round.
    2) Push the wire into the jack. Tighten the screw/end cap to snug.
    3) Now, unscrew the screw/end cap. Pull the wire back out. The wire will be marked where the threads cut into the outer jacket.
    4) The G.L's system relys on the thread or screw cutting into the jacket to make contact with the shield to make the ground connection. It is hit or miss.
    Take an exacto knife and cut away the jacket where the threads marked the cable(on the right angle, about this much O more or less ). Replace the cable in the jack, tighten the end cap, making sure that the threads contact the exposed shield area. For straight jacks, repeat the above. The screw will cut a little circle on the jacket. Take an exacto knife or small screw driver and pop the jacket circle out of the jacket to exspose the shield. Put the wire back into the jack and align the screw with the hole in the jacket. Tighten the screw or cap and you are done. This technique makes sure that the ground connection is solid vs one thread or the screw head(usually a very small area of ground contact, or none at all!) piercing the jacket.
    It is good to have a multmeter to test continuity when you are done.
    Bill
     

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