Is the stud spacing for a Kahler Steeler, the same as OFR

Discussion in 'Guitars in General' started by S.A.M., Aug 13, 2008.

  1. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    I just recieved a guitar with a Kahler Steeler where all the saddles have been changed to a non locking style. Kahler doesn't carry the saddles so I think I need to change the bridge if I can find one that fits. Are the studs the same on a OFR as the Steeler?
     
  2. Eagle1

    Eagle1 Member

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    Pics please!
    Yes the OFR is the same but if it is recessed the rout will not fit as the OFR is offset and the Steeler is symmetrical.
    also the Steeler studs are the weakest point and prone to lean in softer woods.
    Also I'd like to see how they got a different saddle on as the threads are in the saddle,(unique to the Steeler.)
     
  3. Darth Tater

    Darth Tater Supporting Member

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  4. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    Here are some pics. Any idea what I can do. I emailed Kahler, and they said the stud spacing ISN"T the same as FR. They are the ones that said the saddles aren't original. They don't sell any sadles either. This guitar won't stay in tune when I use the Trem, and I'm guessing its because they strings don't lock in the bridge.
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  5. Eagle1

    Eagle1 Member

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    Those saddles are modified Steeter saddles and may be able to be modded back .
    The brass block retainer has been pushed up at the front to project the string over the saddle top. It may be possible to push it back. Then you need to remove the hollow bolts from the back and see if the thread is intact to take the 1/8" bolts that lock the string blocks in place .You may need to run a tap through them.
    I would think it's doable.
    As for the spacing being different from an OFR it is only because the OFR is built metric and the Steeler was imperial but close equivalent . I have fitted them on Andersons built with Steelers (due to lack of available spares.) but the rout needs to be changed on a recess like yours . You could use a Gotoh because one of the stud mounts is open to accommodate variance.
    I would try and mod it back first.
     
  6. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    Any idea where I could get those screws and blocks from, other than Kahlerparts.com. They would cost me $78 plus shipping and taxes (I'm in Canada). That seems alot for a couple of screw that I don't know will fit anymore.
     
  7. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    Kahler parts don't carry the stringlock bolts anymore. Looks like I might have to go the GOTOH route, unless I can find a used Steeler somewhere. I really don't want to put another $150 into this guitar.
     
  8. Eagle1

    Eagle1 Member

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    OFR string blocks will fit and you can get bolts the same length 1/8" from a good hardware store . They will work without the tips modding but you can easily file the tip to a flat ended cone. Remember that the Gotoh will need the recess routing to be changed.
     
  9. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    Thanks for the info. I'll take out one of the bolts and take it to a hardware store and see if I can find one (any idea what that type of srew/bolt is called). I've also got a line on a used Steeler.
     
  10. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    Thanks for the help Eagle1. I had to order the parts (screws, and blocks) but it worked out good. Only cost me about $30 (most of that was shipping). Thanks again.
     
  11. Eagle1

    Eagle1 Member

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  12. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    The only thing is now is I have to get a new bar. Mine is pretty stripped.
     
  13. Eagle1

    Eagle1 Member

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    The bar assembly unbolts from the block allowing you to retrofit a Schaller bar mech which is easily obtained from Allparts (under £10.) You may need to slightly enlarge the hole to accommodate the metric bar mech but only a fraction of a mm and the original bar can easily be refitted should you like too.
     
  14. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    I'LL look into that. Thanks again.
     
  15. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    Do you have a link. I can't seem to find it. All I see is the bar and bushing.
     
  16. Eagle1

    Eagle1 Member

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    Thats it ,you need to install the bushing in place or the existing mech that needs to be unbolted from the block.
    http://schaller-guitarparts.de/hp135234/FR-Tremolo-arm.htm
    This is the part.
     
  17. S.A.M.

    S.A.M. Member

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    555
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    Oh, OK. I guess I'm a bit slow, but how does that work? I see how the Kahler is bolted on to the block, but what about that style.
     
  18. Eagle1

    Eagle1 Member

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    The Bushing bolts through the top-plate ,works very well, and because of this difference slightly enlarging the hole in the baseplate (tiny amount) dose not affect your ability to revert it back to the original should you want too.
     

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