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[Line 6 Echo Park] - An ode to a great, small delay that is often overlooked

Boba7

Member
Messages
420
A possibly easier way to do the external tap mod is to install a mini 1/8" jack near where the battery goes. I did it in a spot where the battery could still be used. And the wires just attach to the internal tap switch.

Of course you'll need a 1/8" male to female 1/4" to use with a regular instrument cable. But that way you don't loose the stereo inputs.

Yeah that sounds good, but I don't have the right tools to drill a hole in the pedal...
Do you have any pictures of this mod?
 
Messages
969
Hey guys I've owned one of these for years but stupidly reverse polarised it and made it u/s.
Can anyone here fix them?
I've tried a few places local to me but no one will touch them..
Would love to resurrect it :)
 

feet

sexual visionary
Silver Supporting Member
Messages
6,066
thanks for bumping a fun old thread. haven't seen it yet. it inspired me to dust off the old echo park. i relived why i bought it, why i replaced it and why i stopped using it. :) some findings:

-first and foremost, its not bad!

-second, and probably why i replaced it: can't really murk up the repeats in any setting. they are always equally apparent (and thusly, a little digital to my ear) in tape, analog or digital mode. maybe i'm doing it wrong, but even at the most ambient of settings, repeats were pretty clear.

-lastly, mine is intermittently working. it lights up, it responds, but no signal gets through, whether its on or not. its very much an old one. i cracked it open an the date codes seem to date it back to 07, if i understand them correctly. i gave it a once over with contact cleaner and put it back together. still nothing.

so i tried the "check your version" trick as in the first post. i got nothing. but if i plug in a cable (i used mono in), hold the switch down, plug the cable back in and release the switch, i get two flashes of red and then the green light goes solid. i can now hear the clean, unaffected signal. by moving various knobs and switches i can get the solid green to turn red. you can't tap in a delay time or hear any delay at all, regardless of setting. if you unplug and plug the cable back in, it reverts back to its normal state, but again, with no audio coming through. not sure what i did or what that's all about. any ideas?

and i've read a billion times here that it sounds exactly like a dmm, but i never got that impression. i a/b'd it to the closest thing i had, a memory toy, to unsatisfactory result. maybe that's the toy's fault, i can't say. but for the brief moments it was working, i got the same impression as i had back then. like it a lot, don't exactly love it. a cheap, very useful/useable jack-of-all-trades, but does nothing better than a really good dedicated delay pedal. all the same, i'd like to get it up and running again for some further experimentation now that i understand it better.
 

feet

sexual visionary
Silver Supporting Member
Messages
6,066
since we are reliving the past in other threads, a little bump couldn't hurt. :)
 

Nick Sorenson

Rocketfire Guitars
Silver Supporting Member
Messages
1,088
I've owned 3 now. The first worked well. The second died. The 3rd is now working sometimes. Sometimes it works, other times there's no sound when the effect is on or just loud white noise. I can get it to come back sometimes but not usually.

They sound great when they work, but only 1 of 3 continuing to work is a problem!!! The line6 support has always said tough luck when I've called them. I realize that what they're building leaves a lot of room for bugs electrically and the fact that they're using microprocessors. So I will give them that. Still it's too bad because I think the Echo Park is the best delay pedal in it's form factor.

EDIT: After posting this I decided to see if I could revive mine. I soldered a ground wire from the power jack to the input and output jack ground terminals and sanded the paint off where the housing contacted the ground terminals on the PCB and it seems to work now.
 
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Gibs210

Member
Messages
8,702
Boy I wish I had found this thread a while ago!

I just recently finished up some DIY work on my board. Built a pedalboard controller (tap tempo, buffered ABY output, amp channel, fx loop on/off, and expression knob all in one package) modded my deluxe memory boy delay and shape shifter tremolo for external tap tempo input, and bought a tapestry audio wife for isolated multi tap tempo outs.

After finishing this project up, I started thinking: I've got extra taps left on the wife for additional tap tempo pedals, why don't I mod my old echo park and throw it back on my board? My only issue was attempting to figure out where the heck do I put another 1/4" jack on this pedal, for one there aren't many flat surfaces to drill through, let alone space inside the pedal to accommodate the jack itself.

So before I posted another thread, I figured I'd look into if anyone has done this before, sure enough I come across this thread and found what I needed, I like the idea of using one of the stereo jacks, but was unsure about going that route, I might try the 1/8" jack idea, but I know I already have the material to do this if I just use the stereo jack.

The big surprise was the internal dip switches! I've got 3 stereo tonedocks, and 5 modules (echo park, Liquaflange, Space chorus, roto machine, and tap tremolo) The echo park was always my favorite of the bunch, but i did notice a lack of unity gain on all of the tonecore products, this was a big disapointment for me with the rotomachine, liquaflange, and space chorus, the tap tremolo I never bonded with because of its lack of subdivision control, which would have made this pedal more useable for high speed trem settings. I could use the liqua and space, but was never that into there sound, the rotomachine was always pretty impressive, just hated the volume drop. So I start opening up all my docks and come to find that only one of them has the dip switches, so Im guessing that I have a combination of the first and second versions of these, can't say I noticed any difference in weight between them, not in hand at least.

I flipped the dip switches and started experimenting, and sure enough, they brought the volume back to unity, why didn't line 6 ever tell people about this!?!?!?!?! This fixed one of the big issues that I had with these pedals (the other biggie being the inability to diasy chain these pedals without getting a lot of noise). I just wish that all my docks had the dip switches, I might have started using the rotomachine again, but for now, I think I'll mod the dock with the dipswitches and put the echopark in it, and start rocking this pedal again. Maybe flip the modules out every so often and see if they "feel" any better now that the volume seems to be at unity.

As others have said, the tape mode is where it is at on this pedal, and since I already have an analog delay, this is the mode that this pedal will most likely stay in, forgot how much fun it is to stack delays, and change the subdivisions around so that you get a gilmour like multi delay sound. And honestly its a pretty cool combination of tape and analog repeats when I do this. I forgot how reverb like the decay on the tape emulation can get when the repeats are set high, this may have put my need for a reverb on hold for a bit longer!

I didnt realize how many people actually like this pedal as much as me, never thought some would pick it over an el cap for tape delay! I have always like this pedal for its intuitiveness with the bypass/tap tempo. Way better than the way that boss accomplished this, as others have said, probably the best single switch style delay with onboard tap tempo, just because of how easy it is to use. And I also loved that the delay mode, and delay voicings were separate, something that a lot of other companies out there haven't figured out yet.
 

Boba7

Member
Messages
420
Well I sold mine a year ago and have regretted it ever since... Just got one back (v2 of course, to switch off the volume/treble boost), for $60, and it sounds really good. Had a Memory Lane Jr, a Cusack Tap-a-delay, both fantastic delays, then built a tap tempo PT2399 based delay that sounds quite good (and with a tone knob so now I can use it more for dark delays after the Echo Park), but really, the Echo Park is an amazing piece of gear. It sounds awesome. V2 mandatory. :)

I use it after my Madbean Fat Pants (Echoplex Preamp), it's just perfect for my needs.
 

Boba7

Member
Messages
420
So I modded my Echo Park again, and this time I put a tap tempo input where the battery was supposed to be. Last time I disconnected input B to use it as a tap input. This time I have both stereo ins and outs and tap in/out!
I can now connect it to an external tap or another delay with a tap input.

It wasn't easy to find the right jack, I had to go through 4 different ones.
(and it needs to be isolated of course)





 

Gibs210

Member
Messages
8,702
Reverb did an article on some pedals, the Echo Park included. Expect the prices to go higher now.
I saw that article as well.

Might be time to sell mine, may get a little extra scratch since mine has the external tap mod :D
 

Gila_Crisis

Member
Messages
1,171
I just got one, and it's brilliant!
At some point I decided I needed a small print delay beside my Eventide Timefactor (which, btw, will soon go, since I decided to switch to a Strymon Timeline), so in the last year or so I had first a TC Alter Ego 2 and then a Digitech Obscura. Both where good cool pedals, but i felt something was missing.
Finally I was able to get my hands on an Echo Park, and wow: now I see what was missing: that stereo imaging and fullness I remembered from my trusty Line6 M9, also when using a simple delay (no stereo, pingpong or whatever)! And the double action bypass/tap switch is just genius brilliant!
 

roseblood11

Member
Messages
9
Has anybody ever tried to find out, why so many Tonecore pedals die after some years of use? In most cases, the problem seems to be in the module, not the dock. So, it might be the pots, but I saw dead pedals that were only used in the living room, some looked like new. Could it be oxydation of the metal contacts the connect the module to the dock? maybe some contact cleaner and/or sand paper will do?
 

Ibanezer

Active Member
Messages
71
I guess I'm kinda reviving this thread because with all the talk about the EP and information on TGP, there isnt anyone who posts what each of the internal DIP switches specifically does... just that one of them drops the volume a bit...

I just got one of these killer delays and it's both HEAVY and has the DIP switches so I guess..version 1.5?

If anybody's out there, with the knowledge, what does each DIP switch do, specifically?

I'm not so sure if the boost and brightness bother me yet. Seems better than a BOSS buffer so far. I just would like to know before I bother opening it and risking my clumsy ass killing it. Cheers!
 

LikeAMotherF

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
4,318
I guess I'm kinda reviving this thread because with all the talk about the EP and information on TGP, there isnt anyone who posts what each of the internal DIP switches specifically does... just that one of them drops the volume a bit...

I just got one of these killer delays and it's both HEAVY and has the DIP switches so I guess..version 1.5?

If anybody's out there, with the knowledge, what does each DIP switch do, specifically?

I'm not so sure if the boost and brightness bother me yet. Seems better than a BOSS buffer so far. I just would like to know before I bother opening it and risking my clumsy ass killing it. Cheers!
I recently opened mine up and flipped the switches. They were hermetically sealed beneath a thin plastic/rubber membrane, and I couldn't figure any way to move the switches without puncturing it, so I just pierced it with my mini screwdriver.

To be honest, I couldn't say which ones which. I actually forgot that one was for "brightness"- I just knew one of them was designed to address the volume bump. I just turned them both on because I couldn't tell what was what.

The reason I bothered with the switches in the first place is because I've been using the EP on my gigging board, mostly for slapback sounds, and I found that my signal seemed to disappear in the mix when I kicked it on. Now that the switches are engaged, I get a small volume bump that puts leads *just* on top of the mix. It's kind of perfect, at least for my needs.

The Echo Park never ceases to show and prove!
 

Ibanezer

Active Member
Messages
71
I recently opened mine up and flipped the switches. They were hermetically sealed beneath a thin plastic/rubber membrane, and I couldn't figure any way to move the switches without puncturing it, so I just pierced it with my mini screwdriver.

To be honest, I couldn't say which ones which. I actually forgot that one was for "brightness"- I just knew one of them was designed to address the volume bump. I just turned them both on because I couldn't tell what was what.

The reason I bothered with the switches in the first place is because I've been using the EP on my gigging board, mostly for slapback sounds, and I found that my signal seemed to disappear in the mix when I kicked it on. Now that the switches are engaged, I get a small volume bump that puts leads *just* on top of the mix. It's kind of perfect, at least for my needs.

The Echo Park never ceases to show and prove!
Nice! I didnt realize one DIP was for brightness... that helps a bit . I thought it came stock in ON position, so you switched back to original state or both to other state?

I have never opened it up. I was told by the seller that they were in there but he never used them.

So far, this pedal is very impressive. I'm putting it last in my chain receiving a stereo phaser and a double tracker to two 100w amps, and it sounds incredible on my studio monitors. I've owned probably 5 or six nice/spendy delays of all kinds and this one still holds it's own and even the unusual modes are great and totally useable. Thanks for your input!
 




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