Marshall 4x12 slant cab recover 101

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by Scumback Speakers, Feb 21, 2005.

  1. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    You're welcome, WinstonN! Always happy to help out if I can.

    Marshall cab corners are finger jointed (at least on mine), and that's how the Scumbag cabs are built as well. Here's an example of what you should see on a finger jointed cab (3/4" 13 ply plywood illustrated here).
    [​IMG]
    As for the piping channels, you need a router, with an appropriate sized bit. I use a 3/16" bit, but I also use 2/16" piping. Marshall piping is 3/32", so you'd need a bit, just under 3/16" to work with the slightly smaller piping that comes in a Marshall. The Marshall piping channels are usually (IME, and measurements) 1 5/8" in from the sides of the cab. You'll need the channel cut to 2/16" depth (at least), perhaps more if you're using elephant tolex since it's thicker and more durable than levant tolex (standard basketweave style tolex).

    The finger joint tool ain't a cheap date...$200 plus. I know, I bought one late last year for my cab guy. But they come out looking damn good, so there you go...

    psychodave... thanks for the compliment.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  2. dave6

    dave6 Member

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    dewd...... your the only scumbag i've ever wanted to say thank you to....

    :dude



    THANK YOU for posting some of your know how...
    people like you keep the world going round.





    dave
     
  3. Tone

    Tone Member

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    Man Scumbag, that is some awesome work! If you did'nt show the "before" pics, I would have no idea it used to be a beater. :)

    In the pics with the corner cutting instructions, it looks like you have tolex overlapping eachother. How do you get it to all blend in with eachother? Or am I missing something? And how would the tolex be put on if there were no channels routed for the piping around the cab?

    Thanks!:dude
     
  4. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    dave 6, you're welcome, hope you can put the info to good use.

    Tone, thanks for the kudos. I've received many compliments on the "seamless" corner look (they're not perfect, but pretty close) of that cab.

    Re: Corners
    You overlap the tolex on the corners (and hold it down tight) when you cut through both layers of tolex with a fresh sharp razor blade or utility knife. If you can have a friend hold your straightedge for you, then it's even better. Then you trim up anything to make it match up with very small (handheld) razor blade cuts. When I say small, I mean 1/64" thick at a time. Then you use the tolex glue to adher it to the wood (don't paint your wood corners! The glue won't stick to them.), and I use a thin bead of Super Glue where the tolex meets in the corners. If you screw up, break out the black Sharpie and color in your mistakes! The tolex will almost always need a swipe of black sharpie since it has a white side edge after you cut it. The tolex will stretch just a little, so if you cut it short in the corner seam, push the tolex together with your thumbs until it meets and then put on your Super Glue.

    If you don't have piping channels, you get to buy ALOT more tolex. That's cuz it goes on in one piece, so you'll need over 120 inches (10 feet plus) of tolex cut to about 19 inches wide by 120 inches. That's four yards of tolex, total, and yes, you'll waste about 1/2 of it even after using the excess for your back panel. The Marshall tolex I buy is 54" wide by however long you order it, so after taking out the long piece for the cab sides, and your own back panel, you'll still have enough for three more back panels. Sorry, that's the way it is.

    Your bottom seam on your cab with no piping is also overlapped and then cut through both tolex layers with a sharp knife. The bottom has to have a straightedge since it's 14 inches long, no including the sides. Make sure that bottom tolex is glued down well, and you should consider clamping the straightedge over the tolex to keep it tight when you cut.

    Good luck!
     
  5. Tone

    Tone Member

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    Thanks Scumbag!

    Do you think you'll ever put up a thread like this on one piece tolexing, for cabs without piping channels around the cab?:D
     
  6. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    Tone, do you mean a tutorial to build something like this? A TGP member owns this one. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  7. Tone

    Tone Member

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    Yeah that would be great!
    That's a really nice cab! What's it modeled after?
     
  8. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    It's my own 2x12 design with a slanted baffle front, and adjustable back panel to tune the bass response of the cab to the room. The TGP member that ordered it wanted no piping around it, so that took three yards of tolex to do it in one wrap. He then injected it with two Scumback H75's, and he has two more to try out to see which of the four he likes best. I'm an evil enabler, but in a good way! LOL
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  9. Tone

    Tone Member

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    Sounds great Scumbag! That adjustable back panel sounds really cool. If you ever put up a tutorial on something like this, please let me know. :)
     
  10. ampman72

    ampman72 Guest

    Great thread! Thanks for the info!
     
  11. Reading this thread takes me way back. Scumbag has done a real good job and covered all the small details to do a first class tolex covering/recovering job.

    For those here that are old enough, you may have wondered about those odd looking cabinets Skynyrd used back in '74. The ones with the red and black grill cloth (Ronnie picked that out).

    Their gear was looking pretty ratty from several years on the road, most of that time without road cases, and they wanted to clean them up. We had about three weeks between tours to redo about 8 4x12 Marshalls and 4 8x10 SVT cabinets. Back then there wasn't any source we could find for "official" tolex but I had found an auto upholstry fabric shop that had a black tolex type covering that looked real close to Fender tolex. I had used it before and It looked really good. The grill cloth selection was also very limited. The authentic styles you can get today just weren't available unless you had some sort of factory connections. Oh yeah, the corners were a real pain in the butt but we did them about the same way scumbag shows you.

    We used these cabinets for about a year until we got the Peavy endorsement.
     
  12. Jet Troop

    Jet Troop Supporting Member

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  13. Knucklehead

    Knucklehead Member

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    Great tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to outline all the steps. I have a Basketweave cabinet, that I'd like to recover and plan to use these step by step instructions to recover and repipe it. Fortunately the grillcloth is 100% and doesn't need replacement. I have a questio that maybe Jim can answer:
    Is it absolutely necessary to use the beltsander to remove glue remnants or is there some type of liquid stripper that will thin out the dried glue so it can be wiped off?
    Thanks!!
     
  14. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    Answer: I just bought a Porter Cable 3x21" belt sander two weeks ago as I'm restoring six old metal handle Marshall cabs (that's right, you heard me, SIX!)...the goop remover stuff would cost you more money than the sander belts and you still have to sand off considerable "gunk" that the remover won't fully take off by hand with a sanding block. I know, I've tried. Stripper is also in the same ballpark, unfortunately.

    On the other hand 50 grit sandpaper takes no prisoners... you'll still need to have some goop remover for the corners, or channels, plus razor blades, and a lot of elbow grease, too.
     
  15. goneracin

    goneracin Member

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    Try wiping it with a rag soaked with laquer thinner. Dont get it dripping wet, just get the glue wet. Let it sit for a minute, and scrape it with a razor blade. The thinner will soften the glue, and let the blade remove it. Just dont soak the wood too much, esp in the corners. You may still have to sand some , but its way less nasty this way.
    bob
     
  16. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    Hey Bob, Merry Xmas... lacquer thinner, eh...fumes a problem? And do you use the big razor blades (4") type, or a putty knife, or what?
     
  17. goneracin

    goneracin Member

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    Ive painted a shitload of cars, so the fumes dont bother whats left of my brain... :eek:
    I used just an old fashioned razor blade, but a wide blade or a good sharp reasonably thin putty knife would kick ass for the big flatter areas of a 4x12. Ive only done a few head cabs, but I swore I wouldnt do it all with a sander, so I had to find a better way.
    Acetone might work as well. Dont use any of the comercial strippers, that **** is non-drying, and will soak into the wood and joints and could cause issues later with loosening the glue in the joints.
     
  18. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    Acetone, I've got a gallon of that here...I'll try that on one of the cabs I'm recovering... get back to you on how it works... go to sleep, would ya? LOL
     
  19. goneracin

    goneracin Member

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    Sleep? WTF is that? :confused:
     
  20. Scumback Speakers

    Scumback Speakers Gold Supporting Member

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    That stuff that we're supposed to do to relax us and rejuvenate our bodies when we're not worried about client orders, where the Fedex/UPS/USPS shipment is, answering emails, gluing, soldering and screwing things together...remember? :) (I realize it's been awhile for you...me, too!) :D

    (I'm going downstairs to pack up a bunch of speakers now...)
     

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