Well, let's see. We have to unscrew the baffle board, and take off the old cloth. It's pretty faded, to say the least (fade resistant black, huh? Oh yeah sure! LOL) and it's got ALOT of staples, roughly 40 per side. Get out one of the #1 small straight tip screwdrives and start prying them up. Those cheap computer toolkits have the perfect size for this, and they also fit the really small piping staples exactly, so break out the small straight tip screwdriver, slide it under the old black cloth, center under the staples and start prying them up. Then get out the pliers and pull them the rest of the way out. See ya in about 1/2 hour. Boring work, but... you have no choice.
Man, this cloth is OUTTA HERE, huh? Yuch!
Staples freaking everywhere.
How your white, gold or silver piping is cut to go around corners inside. This is the lower lefthand corner (looking from the backside). Notice the cut to the corner thru the piping bead? That's to allow it to bend at the corner and stay flat. Use extra staples here when you reattach it, too. Keeps it in place.
Upper righthand corner (from the rear view) of the piping where it starts and ends (notice there's no cut to round the corner as in the previous pic?)
The tolex should all just peel off with your fingers, or with a little persuasion from a screwdriver or knife blade now. Rip it all off... go ahead, get nuts!
Get the bottom, too. No half assed stuff here!
Someone asked how they get the angle on the baffle board for a slant cab. Here's how, take a good look. A precision angle cut I guess.
In the next installment, we'll dowel up the extra holes, and sand the cab smooth with a belt sander, and sanding blocks for the inside corners, etc. We'll get going on this on the weekend. Check back in two or three days for more instructions! Have a good afternoon, OK?
OK, we left off with stripping the cab, and now move to the most enviable task of all... taking off the glue residue. Thrilled, aren't you? (Yeah, me neither...barf!)
My advice is get one of the workbenches you can raise and lower, get two clamps, an electic belt sander of 4" or wider, a hand sanding block, 40 grit & 80 grit sandpaper for the sanding block. Outfit your belt sander with 50 grit, get two belts in case you find that hidden staple, screw, whatever. It happened to me during this..
OK start by getting your workmate bench up to a comfortable height you can reach WITH the cab on top. At 6'2" I had my bench about the height of my upper thighs, then added on the 30" of the cab height and got just around shoulder height. Do what's comfortable for you. Then clamp your cab with diagonally so it won't flex. Or use more if you want, it's up to you.
Make sure your clamps are tight, no deviations. Get out the belt sander. Keep two things in mind right now.
1) 50 Grit sandpaper cuts quick. Do not push in, let the sander's weight be your only force. I'll show you why later...
2) Hold on tight! The 50 grit paper will grip the wood and take off if you're not holding on. Forget the gym today, I did!
Use the belt sander going with the grain (side to side the long way, usually) of the wood. Move quickly, go back and forth. Typical time to do one side with FRESH paper, 2-3 minutes.
Back sides of the cab, you can do with the belt sander the long way only, and very sparingly, it will strip these small width pieces LIKE THAT, and if you hang on too long you have ruts, or rounded edges where you don't want them. We'll fix with wood filler, but it's easier NOT to make that mistake.
After 20 minutes of sanding your cab you should be looking like this on all four sides, but here's the top for reference:
Now you get to clean out the back indents. That's where the back panel fits in flush to the back of the cab. You have to get that goop, glue, sawdust, and crap out of there to finish the tolexing. I knew you'd be thrilled. Get a single edged safety razor, the 40 grit sandpaper, and a sanding block. Put the 40 grit in the block. Sand a little of the indent to get it warm, then take the razor and scrape the goop out. Here's the area I'm talking about:
After you get going on it, you'll get a feel for how much sanding you need to do, before it needs to be scraped with the razor. The glue will dry up alot, but still be sticky, but you can still get a nice little ball of crap each time you scrape. Anyway, angle the blade to scrape the goop off, and angle it into corners, press in and scrape those corners out good. When it starts looking like this, you're close. Remember to alternate the sanding block and the razor. Neither does it all, but they do well in tandem.
This operation should take around 30 minutes to an hour. Depends how diligent you are, and how many beers you've had, right? Stay focused, razors are shop, belt sanders can tear your skin off and screw up your hands, so let's celebrate after we're done, OK?
While you're tired of moving your hands with the sanding block and razor, take the time to brush off your baffle board with a whisk broom or similar, get the dust off, and the lint, then spray paint it FLAT BLACK. Get it looking like this, and you're good to go. The edges where the screws are don't show, so don't waste any extra paint on them, unless you want to.
OK, when you're done, it should look alot like this. That's right THIS WHITE! All of that black goop was glue. Make sure your back indents, and your inside cab edges are all this clean. We need that area to wrap new tolex around, so if the old glue is there, it won't stick as well. Want your tolex to unroll? Didn't think so. We'll reconvene shortly for new cloth for the 4x12 baffle board. Thinking of BluesBreaker reissue cloth with white piping... whaddya think? Here's the cab before today...
Check in with you later for the grill cloth installation...
great guide, I finally got it after seeing the pictures. Thank you.
Do you, by any chance have some tips on how to do inside corners too?
Hi Jim,whooops, my bad, I wasn't clear enough.
Thanks for the pic, my fingers hurt just by watching.
What I meant was, how to apply tolex to a radius like this:
Thank you, cheers.
Yep, it sure was. I had to fix a few things on that one! LOL It's solid now, though, although after 3 years plus of shows, travel and demos it's starting to get a little frayed around the bottom corners. Oh well, there's always super glue and a black Sharpie to fill in the nicks and abrasions.wow that cab in the original post was truly "used" in its lifetime. yikes
While they should be the exact same size, the only way to tell for sure is to try the baffle board in the cab.Does anyone know if a straight baffle out of a 70's cab in the same dimentions as one from say a 90's cab? I'm looking for a marshall 4x12 straight baffle (for a bottom cab). Thanks in advance, Matt.
B Money, were the plastic recesses on the top of your B cab originally riveted in place? Do/did they have the Marshall logo on them? How about the original handles on the side (did those have the Marshall logo on them)? Thanks in advance... Matt