I was contacted recently by a client to recover their JCM 900 cab, and also make it look older. The client had some specific ideas on what he wanted to do, so we agreed on a price to "makeover" the cab to something a little nicer along the lines of an old Basketweave cab...and he supplied the materials for the recover. 1) Red tolex... (Big Mike, are you following along here?) 2) Gold piping over the top and bottom. 3) Basketweave (Salt & Pepper) grillcloth. 4) Remove the old logos. 5) Remove the anit-skid trays and fill them. 6) Remove the plastic corners and fill the screw holes. My job was to strip the cab, get the wood work done, route the channels, and make it look pretty. I dug in yesterday with the following products: 1) Kleen Strip Aerosol stripper http://www.kleanstrip.com/removers.htm ESR72-18 oz Aerosol available at Home Depot for about $5.39 per can. You'll need two cans to do it right, and you'll use almost all of it. 2) 1.5" wide metal blade putty knife 3) A dropcloth or dispostable plastic sheet to put under the cab while you spray the stripper. 4) Eye goggles (stripper can mess you up, put 'em on!) 5) Weather in the 65 to 85 degree range. 6) Good stripping gloves. 7) Coarse Steel wool. 8) Sanding block. You'll need to remove all of the old plastic corners, tolex and rivets, so refer to this tutorial I did last year on how to get that accomplished, if you need a refresher course. http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=70200&highlight=recover+101 Put down your dropcloth, put on your gloves, goggles and shake up your aerosol stripper real good and start spraying. Try to do one side at a time only. The fumes are nasty, and moving the cab around with stripper is messy, so try to keep your gloves from getting too gunky so you don't transfer stripper via your gloves back to stripped areas later. When you have waited 15-20 minutes, start with the putty knife in the grain direction on the cab, which is from side to side the long way. Use both hands to angle the putty knife at a 30-45 degree angle with the blade TRAILING behind your handle. In other words, lead with your hands and have the angle behind them. You do this so that you don't "gouge" the wood. Lots of times there are imperfections under the tolex from chips in the plywood, or rivet holes, etc. To avoid any unnecessary extra "wood fills" this is the way to do it. You'll see a nice ugly black ball of old Marshall tolex glue form on the edge of your putty knife. Get a plastic grocery bag inside of an old cardboard box and scrape it off as you go, or wipe it on a paper towel, whichever you prefer. When you have scraped the excess glue & stripper off, you might get lucky and not have much to do, but there will likely be problem areas where the glue is heavier than others, so spray the stripper again, and wait. Do not proceed to another side till you have it down to a dry surface, otherwise as you flip it you'll collect dirt, dust, crap and corruption and make it harder to finish off with a sander. Here's where you'll be at when you're almost done: Stripped front: Stripped rear: Let it sit overnight (unless you have a nice hot day to dry the leftover stripper fast), and then clean up excess stripper & glue around your anti-skid trays. I find that 50 grit sandpaper does a nice job of removing leftover gunk around the corners, front edges, etc. When you have finished making the wood look white again, you're ready to measure for your piping channels.They come in EXACTLY 1 5/8" in from the sides. You'll need a 5/32 or 3/16" router bit for the piping channel, and it should be about 1/8" deep as well. Your piping should be the standard Marshall thin gold piping available from www.tubesandmore.com as they have the real Marshall replacement gold piping. DO NOT GET THE VOX STRING! The Vox string is the wrong color. Here's where you route the piping channels. I use an L square to get it even from back to front. I'll proceed on to the routing and anti-skid plate filling this weekend when my cab maker/fixer can do it and I can take pictures.