MarkF786
Silver Supporting Member
- Messages
- 2,186
Since my quest to determine the SOL schematic was based on the soul purpose of fixing the "fat" switch so it wasn't "obese", now that I see the schematic, I see it's an easy fix even if the pedal is gooped.
First, to understand how the fat switch works, please read this article by Jack Orman: http://www.muzique.com/lab/fatt.htm. On the SOL, the SPST is doing the the exact thing as in the second-to-last diagram; in the "fat" mode, the switch bypasses the .047uf capacitor.
Keep in mind that when putting capacitors in parallel, you add their capacitance, so instead of bypassing the capacitor and adding maximum fatness, you can just increase the capacitance by putting another cap in parallel to achieve the degree of fatness you desire.
Instead of using the SPST switch, you can replace it with either an "on-on" SPDT switch with one leg being disconnected and the other leg being connected to a capacitor in parallel (this would allow you to select between the default .047uf or .047uf + whatever capacitor you put in parallel) or you could replace it with an "on-off-on" switch to allow you to select between either the default .047uf or .047uf + two different additional capacitors in parallel. For a good example of this, see the "Mids" switch in the schematic for the BYOC OD2: http://buildyourownclone.com/overdrive2instructions.pdf.
To give some comparative values, the Rockbox Boiling Point switches between two settings: the stock .047uf or .22uf. To achieve similar results, you'd need to use an "on-on" SPDT switch and a .15uf capacitor.
Or on the BYOC OD, they use a "on-off-on" SPDT switch to choose between three different total values - .047uf, .094uf, or .197uf (using an additional .047uf or .15uf capacitor in parallel). I find the .047uf in parallel to have a minimal effect, so I'm planning to go with .15uf and .22uf capacitors.
I've done some preliminary testing tonight just using jumper cables, and it seems to work well. This weekend I'll solder in the new switch and capacitors.
If there are any technical inaccuracy, feel free to correct me.
First, to understand how the fat switch works, please read this article by Jack Orman: http://www.muzique.com/lab/fatt.htm. On the SOL, the SPST is doing the the exact thing as in the second-to-last diagram; in the "fat" mode, the switch bypasses the .047uf capacitor.
Keep in mind that when putting capacitors in parallel, you add their capacitance, so instead of bypassing the capacitor and adding maximum fatness, you can just increase the capacitance by putting another cap in parallel to achieve the degree of fatness you desire.
Instead of using the SPST switch, you can replace it with either an "on-on" SPDT switch with one leg being disconnected and the other leg being connected to a capacitor in parallel (this would allow you to select between the default .047uf or .047uf + whatever capacitor you put in parallel) or you could replace it with an "on-off-on" switch to allow you to select between either the default .047uf or .047uf + two different additional capacitors in parallel. For a good example of this, see the "Mids" switch in the schematic for the BYOC OD2: http://buildyourownclone.com/overdrive2instructions.pdf.
To give some comparative values, the Rockbox Boiling Point switches between two settings: the stock .047uf or .22uf. To achieve similar results, you'd need to use an "on-on" SPDT switch and a .15uf capacitor.
Or on the BYOC OD, they use a "on-off-on" SPDT switch to choose between three different total values - .047uf, .094uf, or .197uf (using an additional .047uf or .15uf capacitor in parallel). I find the .047uf in parallel to have a minimal effect, so I'm planning to go with .15uf and .22uf capacitors.
I've done some preliminary testing tonight just using jumper cables, and it seems to work well. This weekend I'll solder in the new switch and capacitors.
If there are any technical inaccuracy, feel free to correct me.