I have two tips: 1) adjust the polescrews!: After reading on the Lindy Fralin webpage, I've found a nice way to get a clearer, brighter and punchier sound from Humbuckers with adjustable polepieces (esp. PAFs): Adjust the polepieces on the wound strings (real) high, especially on the neck PU. Keep the polepieces a bit lower on the plain string and adjust the pickup so it's lower on the bass side than the treble side. This works very well on Gibsons and it also helps a little on Gretschs or Filtertrons. If you look at SGs and Firebirds you'll find that the PUs are not in the same angel as the strings. This means that you'll have a thiner sound because one half of the humbucker pick up more sound than the other. It works almost as Gibsons Burstbuckers or Fralins Unbuckers. The difference is that you keep the full hum-cancelling and that you get more of the singel coil sound on the wound strings than on the plain strings. This set up dosen't change PAFs or Gibsons to something different. The fact is that a lot of the PAF PUs had more windings on one coil than on the other. This is why Gibson makes Burstbuckers and Fralin makes Unbuckers. (I've also found out that the Antiquity PAFs have more windings on one coil than the other. this should contribute to a clearer and thiner sound.) To my ears this thiner and clearer sound does work very well on the bass strings. (On the plain strings a fatter and creamier sound ala Gibsons PAFs or Fralins Humbuckers is nice.) The plain strings, especially the G-string, is alot louder and sharper than the wound string. Therefore I raise the polescrews more on the wound strings than on the plain strings. The idea is to get a more balanced sound than what most PU have (with exeption of Seymour Duncans Alnico 5/2 and newer Kinman PUs). The idea is not to sound like a banjocaster. If your SG, Les Paul or 335 sound clearer and punchier, you can, for instance, use more bass or distortion on you amp. In a band setting I think this adjustment will give you a more defined tone that doesen't get muddy that easily. I've found that this setup works very well with (pure) nickel or flatwound strings. This strings actually get more usable this way. (Try Pyramid strings - not Gibson strings.) If you adjust the polescrews like this on a Filtertron, the bass will sound a little more like a Hilotron. A Hilotron Singel Coil PU is almost the same as a half Filtertron Humbucker. The bridge PU, or the polescrews, should be 1,5 mm from the string. Find out what is the highest position you use on the fretboard on the e and h string and on the A and E string. (for me this is something like fret 21 on the thin strings and fret 12 or 14 on the bass strings. This mean that I can put the pickup a little bit closer to the E string (bass) than the e string.) 2) experiment with the bridge and tailpiece (angel, height) untill it gets better. You can also buy a new bridge and tailpiece. I'd recommend tonepros - perhap plus titanum K-T-S saddles (PR-02 for Vintage ABR-1 Tune-O-Matic Bridge 6 pcs. 4/40 thread Width=8.8m/m Height=6.5m/m Thickness=3.0m/m OR PR-05 for Gotoh® Tune-O-Matic Bridge 6pcs. M2.6 x 0.45 thread Width=8.8m/m Height=8.0m/m Thickness=3.0m/m OR PR-06 for Nashville Tune-O-Matic Bridge 6pcs. M3 x 0.5 thread Width=8.8m/m Hight=10.0m/m Thickness=2.55m/m - se http://www.k-t-s.com/bridge.html) the tonepros isn't as loose as the gibson parts. However you can adjust the original gibson tailpiece so that it's higher on the one side than the other. This way it won't be loose, because the big screws is holding it. The tailpiece should be low, and not high above the body. However it should not be so low that the string touches the bridge other places than the saddles. This is usual a problem with the way gibsons are set up. You can also turn the tailpiece 180 degrees (i.e. like a wraparound bridge) like zakk wylde, and many others do. this way you'll get a thiner,more cutting tone with more high mids.