My New Used DRRI

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by Bluesjam, Oct 14, 2008.

  1. Bluesjam

    Bluesjam Member

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    I bought a 1999 DRRI, all stock. Tubes looked old, the first playing test was so-so. Ordered a new set of tubes, JJ & Tong Sols mixed and I have a G12H30 heritage that at one time I had in a BDRI. I'm going to install that in the DRRI. I've read on this forum and others that some like the G12H30 and some don't. Well, it's paid for so it's going in. I found a nice paper that is on the net detailing a full over all of a DRRI with some of the known mods. I'm not going to do any of those until I get the speaker/tubes worked out. I am going to have to pull the chassis to be able to remove the speaker. The speaker won't slide off of the top stud, it hits the transformer. I've read about the different spacings for the new type speaker compared to the RI speaker. To remove the chassis is it just the 4 big screws in the top of the amp that hold it in?
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2008
  2. GenoBluzGtr

    GenoBluzGtr Supporting Member

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    Yeah. You have to slide the chassis out a bit to get the speaker out. Be careful, and do this right, as you will risk puncturing your speaker if you don't (the other studs are there waiting to punch a hole in that cone if you try to 'jockey' it out without sliding the chassis out).

    You have to take out the top chassis strap bolts (the four on top). Remove them all the way. Then lay the amp down on it's face, and remove the three small philips head screws that hold the rear chassis lip to the bottom of the cabinet's top piece.

    Take the speaker and footswitch cables off, and then you can set the amp upright and slide the chassisout (it won't fall, there are wooden guide-slats under each side of the chassis).

    Be very careful installing the new speaker, for the same reasons as before (the mounting studs.). Check the holes from the old speaker to make sure they lineup with the new speaker before attempting to slide it on.

    reverse everything and make sure all the cables are plugged back into the right spots before firing it up.

    Another tip... bias the amp to about 18-22 mA. These amps sound best biased just a bit colder than normal (the normal setting for 6V6s with this kind of plate voltage would be about 24-28 mA, but it sounds a little harsh at those settings).

    Also, the amp will sound a tad thin and fizzy with OD pedals on the vibrato channel unless you turn it up to above 3-4. Normal channel sounds fine at all levels.
     
  3. Puckman

    Puckman Member

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    I made that same mistake the first time I tried swapping out the DRRI speaker. You do NOT need to remove the chassis. What you need to do is to unscrew the 4 screws that hold the speaker baffle to the cab, and the whole thing will come out from the front side. These screws are located in the back of the cab. Obviously you have to remove the 2 "guards" on the back. You've probably done that already. Look for 4 screws holding the baffle to the main cab. Much much easier than messing with removing the chassis (not that there's anything wrong with that. just unnecessary)

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Bluesjam

    Bluesjam Member

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    Puckman, You know I was thinking about that. I was looking at the amp and said wouldn't it cool if you could just unscrew the board with the speaker in it and replace in reverse. So you "Can" do it that way?
     
  5. Puckman

    Puckman Member

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    Yup. That's the correct way to access and replace the speaker, actually. You shouldn't have to remove the whole chassis. Just 4 screws. The board with the speaker on it comes right off (see pic below). Replace the speaker, and put the board back in place. Done.
    A word of caution. As you see in the pic below, the board has 8 screws that the speaker mounts on. While that works great with the Jensen speakers (that have 8 holes in them), Celestions usually come with 4 mounting holes on them. (again somewhat visible in the pic below, the Celestion Greenback on the left). This means you have to snip off 4 of the 8 screws from the board to mount a new speaker on there. Easy to do. But just something to note.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. GenoBluzGtr

    GenoBluzGtr Supporting Member

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    Wow... that WOULD make life alot easier!
     
  7. Bluesjam

    Bluesjam Member

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    Puckman, I read on another forum that the guy used small vise grips and unthreaded the stud out and was able to lift the material to remove the stud. I might try that and if it doesn't work just cut them off. I'm not a purist.
     
  8. Puckman

    Puckman Member

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    I cut mine off using a vice grip. Just clamp the tip of the stud, and "bend" it side to side until the stud snaps.

    4 screws are more than enough for any speaker out there. Which is why most speakers only have 4 mounting holes. I guess Fender/Jensen decided to go with 8, but I didn't think it really made any difference in terms of the integrity of the amp.
     
  9. Bluesjam

    Bluesjam Member

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    Thank you guys for the help. I'll post tomorrow with pics.
     

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