Sovereign_13
Member
- Messages
- 188
...some assembly (okay, all of the assembly) required.
I'm building a Hiwatt! A DR103 clone, to be precise, with the linked-input configuration. Do I need 100W? Nope, but I don't want to get done with a DR504 and wonder "I wonder if...". So, short answer is "yes, I need 100W".
The first box of parts arrived this past Tuesday from Mouser. I haven't had a chance to start on it yet, but there will be pictures when I do (probably tonight).
A few details for the interested:
I'm using predominantly Xicon 1/2W resistors and Cornell-Dublier capacitors. Electrolytics are mostly Nichicon, but some of the big can caps are coming from Mojotone (which will be the next order, probably at the end of the month). I'm also using 1k 5W screen resistors (also Xicon - the big white box ones).
I'm using turret-board construction (yes, you can still find turret boards - Mouser sells them) so that I can use the same layout found in the Hylight-era Hiwatts.
Transformers will be the Heyboer units carried by Mojotone and used by the extremely knowledgeable and helpful Mr. Mark Huss in his own Hiwatt build. I've scoured his website on Hiwatts and exchanged a few emails with the man himself. Many thanks to him for all his information.
I haven't bought a chassis yet, so suggestions there are welcome. Currently my front runner is a Protocase 19"x9"x2.75" 16ga cold-rolled steel 5-sided enclosure. With all the holes done, the chassis painted, and the front digitally printed, it runs about $350. I'm also considering the same enclosure, but 302 stainless and with black letters on a bare front, which would run about $300. And I'll have a pretty unique-looking "Silverface Hiwatt". Off the shelf chassis probably won't work for me (my hole layout differs a little from the usual DR103). Given the weight of the transformers, aluminum is probably not the best choice, which also rules out me being able to drill the holes myself (and I don't really have the time).
I've already made up my mind on this, so please don't just come here saying "oh you should just buy X instead".
This is probably going to be a long(ish) build, mostly because I'm pressed for spare time. Hopefully not more than a few months of building and testing.
Whew! Long post. Sorry about that. Stay tuned for updates!
I'm building a Hiwatt! A DR103 clone, to be precise, with the linked-input configuration. Do I need 100W? Nope, but I don't want to get done with a DR504 and wonder "I wonder if...". So, short answer is "yes, I need 100W".
The first box of parts arrived this past Tuesday from Mouser. I haven't had a chance to start on it yet, but there will be pictures when I do (probably tonight).
A few details for the interested:
I'm using predominantly Xicon 1/2W resistors and Cornell-Dublier capacitors. Electrolytics are mostly Nichicon, but some of the big can caps are coming from Mojotone (which will be the next order, probably at the end of the month). I'm also using 1k 5W screen resistors (also Xicon - the big white box ones).
I'm using turret-board construction (yes, you can still find turret boards - Mouser sells them) so that I can use the same layout found in the Hylight-era Hiwatts.
Transformers will be the Heyboer units carried by Mojotone and used by the extremely knowledgeable and helpful Mr. Mark Huss in his own Hiwatt build. I've scoured his website on Hiwatts and exchanged a few emails with the man himself. Many thanks to him for all his information.
I haven't bought a chassis yet, so suggestions there are welcome. Currently my front runner is a Protocase 19"x9"x2.75" 16ga cold-rolled steel 5-sided enclosure. With all the holes done, the chassis painted, and the front digitally printed, it runs about $350. I'm also considering the same enclosure, but 302 stainless and with black letters on a bare front, which would run about $300. And I'll have a pretty unique-looking "Silverface Hiwatt". Off the shelf chassis probably won't work for me (my hole layout differs a little from the usual DR103). Given the weight of the transformers, aluminum is probably not the best choice, which also rules out me being able to drill the holes myself (and I don't really have the time).
I've already made up my mind on this, so please don't just come here saying "oh you should just buy X instead".
This is probably going to be a long(ish) build, mostly because I'm pressed for spare time. Hopefully not more than a few months of building and testing.
Whew! Long post. Sorry about that. Stay tuned for updates!
No worries there, as I can tack them onto my Mojotone order, but still! Now I'm paranoid, and will probably end up doing a full dry layout just to make sure I didn't do the same thing elsewhere.
