Need some quick advice with new speaker installation

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by CA$H FLOW, Feb 8, 2012.

  1. CA$H FLOW

    CA$H FLOW Member

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    Just installed a Weber Legacy in my amp but I have some questions. On the little info sheet that comes with the speaker it says to hand tighten the screws then go a 1/4 to 1/2 turn more.
    Well I found that hand tightening them wasn't really an option as the screws were tight going in the whole way. I've tried my best to make sure they are equally tight but it's kind of hard to tell.
    How tight should I tighten them ?

    Another thing I should add is that the screw holes didn't line up perfectly so one of the screws will go past the ring of padding while the other 3 rest on the padding. Any thoughts on how to work this without messing up a brand new speaker ?
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2012
  2. CA$H FLOW

    CA$H FLOW Member

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    I should also add that this amp has a front mount speaker; if that changes anything?
     
  3. cestjoel

    cestjoel Member

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    Just make sure they all tighten evenly or else the frame will warp. Just like tuning a new drum head.

    Honestly, I've done tons of speakers swaps and I have yet to warp a frame. Again, just make sure they're all tightened down evenly.

    Joel
     
  4. Lespaulsignature 74

    Lespaulsignature 74 Silver Supporting Member

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    Make sure you didn't cross thread the nuts onto the bolts! Tighten them in an X pattern ...12 o'clock to 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock. If you go to the Scumback speaker web site, there are instructions on how to properly install speakers.
     
  5. CA$H FLOW

    CA$H FLOW Member

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    Yeah, it's just that my amp is a front loaded speaker amp. So when I put all the screws into place 3 of them rest on the gasket padding while the last one of can more or less be screwed all the way down to the metal.
    I should really just take a picture and post it.
     
  6. CA$H FLOW

    CA$H FLOW Member

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    So if you look at the first 3 photos you will see how 3 of the screws are basically resting on the gasket thing around the speaker.
    The 4th photo shows the one oddball screw that screwed down past the gasket. I didn't force it down like that. The holes were lined up that way, so that the screw didn't rest on the gasket.
    As far as I can tell everything is tightened evenly, and the metal frame of the speaker is resting evenly on the baffle board and not warped or anything. I plugged my guitar in to test it out at medium volume and everything seemed to work fine. I've never done this before and don't really want to wreck a brand new speaker.
    Would you experts say it's o.k like this and ready to rock ? I've never done this before and don't really want to wreck a brand new speaker.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Heres the photo showing the screw that is more recessed than the others.

    [​IMG]

    A couple shots of the back of the speaker, nifty label aint it!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. KWCabs

    KWCabs Member

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    All of those screws should ideally fit past the little lip on the speaker, if they effect the foam that's not a problem. The foam is there as a gasket for rear mounting. If they're not past that little lip, then they are only holding down the speaker on that little tiny point where they touch the lip as opposed to the whole screw head surface. If they are front mounted though, you should have put a thin rubber gasket on the back of the speaker frame.

    Warping the frame (unless wildly bent which I wouldn't know how you could do that) will not do anything to the speaker or make it perform differently. The effect of the frame flex to the actual cone is so tiny it would not do anything, especially on a front mount.

    In terms of how tight, the correct answer is tight enough so that they do not loosen on their own. Hand tight is different for everyone, we all have different strength in our hands. If they are front mount with wood screws (like those look to me) then they'll feel tight to go in, if they are rear mount which usually uses t-nuts then they should be smooth till they start to get snug at the end. If you use a power drill, usually the lowest clutch setting is tight enough on the higher torque setting of the drill (if you have more than 1 speed, the lowest speed has the most torque).

    Good luck.
     
  8. CA$H FLOW

    CA$H FLOW Member

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    Thank you so much for that informative reply. So I don't have a rubber gasket large enough that will fit for the back of the speaker. Do you think it will be fine to just tighten all the screws without one ?
     
  9. Lespaulsignature 74

    Lespaulsignature 74 Silver Supporting Member

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    You can purchase a roll of thin foam insulation at any hardware store. I use the ones that have adhesive on one side. This will work well as a gasket, just don't overlap it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2012
  10. CA$H FLOW

    CA$H FLOW Member

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    So I already have the speaker completely installed. Will it be ok to simply leave it as it is without a gasket on the back ?
     
  11. Lespaulsignature 74

    Lespaulsignature 74 Silver Supporting Member

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    Play through the speaker/cabinet at giging volumes and see how it sounds, if your aren't getting any weird vibrations or rattles it should be fine. The first Avatar cabinet I purchased had front loaded speakers without gaskets and it was fine!
     
  12. CA$H FLOW

    CA$H FLOW Member

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    Thanks pal. You're advice is greatly appreciated.
    I actually ended up talking to with a super helpful amp tech/builder based out of Calgary, Alberta who helped me out with this.
     
  13. KWCabs

    KWCabs Member

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    It might be fine it might end up causing annoying strange sounds or vibrations. The gasket is merely meant to seal the speaker to the baffle and eliminate errant noises and vibrations. And as the poster above said, you can get all sort of adhesive backed foam at your local hardware store.
     

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