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Need source for nail or cone point machine screws

Leonc

Wild Gear Hearder
Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
18,234
Anyone familiar with the kind of machine screws the some manufacturers used to use for mounting speakers onto baffles? Others used screws like this for mounting a chassis (typically, the lower chassis in a split chassis configuration) to the cab. They are machine screws, typically #8, phillips head and have a nail point (though a cone point would work fine too).

I can't seem to find these. Anyone know someone who sells them? Want some #8s (or #6) that are 1.25" long, phillips head (can be flat, pan or round style...don't care).
 

Leonc

Wild Gear Hearder
Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
18,234
Sweet. Those are pretty much what I'm talking about. I've not seen them where they share both machine thread and wood-screw thread on the same screw, but that'll work.

Interestingly, note that someone asked the question (which I'd like an answer to as well) -- "How long are they?" three weeks ago and it hasn't been answered yet. Boy mojo could do themselves a favor by posting a bit more info on their products...how hard is it? And it'd be nice if they sold them w/o the overpriced kep-nut too. They're getting about .40 per screw+nut....and I can get the kep nuts at the local store for about 0.10 or 0.11 ea. Ah well I'll quit bitchin now, I'm just not Mojo's biggest fan :)
 

Leonc

Wild Gear Hearder
Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
18,234
Okay, I got a reply from Mojo; the screws are 1.5" long and are size 8-32.
 

phsyconoodler

Member
Messages
4,315
I just use 8-32 or 10-32 bolts with flat tops,drill the holes so they thread in tightly and use a drop of super glue on the threads as they go into the countersunk holes.You did use a countersink,right?

Over the counter stuff at just about any bolt supply house.No need for fancy threaded parts to screw into the wood at all.The only advantage the Mojo ones have is they are black.You paint them anyway so they don't show through the grille cloth anyway,right?

100 for 5.00 here in Canuckland.Just most bolts are Robertson heads,not phillips.
We Canadians do things our own way! Just be thankful we don't drive on the wrong side of the road.:hide
 

Leonc

Wild Gear Hearder
Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
18,234
I just use 8-32 or 10-32 bolts with flat tops,drill the holes so they thread in tightly and use a drop of super glue on the threads as they go into the countersunk holes.You did use a countersink,right?

Over the counter stuff at just about any bolt supply house.No need for fancy threaded parts to screw into the wood at all.The only advantage the Mojo ones have is they are black.You paint them anyway so they don't show through the grille cloth anyway,right?

100 for 5.00 here in Canuckland.Just most bolts are Robertson heads,not phillips.
We Canadians do things our own way! Just be thankful we don't drive on the wrong side of the road.:hide
Actually, counter-sinking is not necessary for my application--I'm replacing the bolts that were used on three of my old split-chassis Valco amps. Half the original bolts are gone and were replaced with oddball junk, different sizes. The amps all sit raised off the floor by rubber feet so the original screws (on two of the three amps) were not countersunk anyways.

BTW...I don't actually use these kinds of screws to actually mount speakers. I much prefer using T-nuts. I countersink them and use 24-hour epoxy to hold them in place. Spray over the surface. They provide better support for the bolt that you mount the speaker with, will probably last through a lot more speaker changes and most importantly, can't result in accidental damage to the cone.
 

Winnie Thomas

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
650
I won't use those because there's too much of a chance of putting a hole in a speaker surround. I put T Nuts in the baffle board and use screws to fasten the speaker to the board. It's safer, much easier to use and offers a tighter fit.

Winnie
 

phsyconoodler

Member
Messages
4,315
If you try and change speakers in a tight combo without removing the chassis then t-nuts are the way to go.Studs have been used on countless amps and they have no issues eiether if mounted properly.T-nuts come very close to the edge of speaker coutouts for my liking so I use studs.Each to his own.
 

Leonc

Wild Gear Hearder
Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
18,234
I won't use those because there's too much of a chance of putting a hole in a speaker surround. I put T Nuts in the baffle board and use screws to fasten the speaker to the board. It's safer, much easier to use and offers a tighter fit.

Winnie
I already made these very same points, just a post or two above yours ;).

But that is not the application for which I actually need these--I'm replacing the crummy, rusty, mis-matched (and often, too short) bolts that are being used in three of my Valco split-chassis combos to mount the lower chassis to the floor of the cab.
 

gndboy

Member
Messages
25
A really good source for almost any type/size/material of threaded fastener is McMaster-Carr.
 

Leonc

Wild Gear Hearder
Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
18,234
Yah, I'm hip; I buy stuff from them a lot...but I can't find these things on their site.
 




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