New Faber bridge holes don't align with existing posts...what to do?

Discussion in 'Guitars in General' started by FireBottle, Feb 7, 2015.

  1. FireBottle

    FireBottle Member

    Messages:
    903
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Location:
    Chicago
    I just got my new replacement bridge/tailpiece set for upgrading my '06 LP Stnd. The holes on the Faber bridge sit just a tiny bit wider than the existing ABR-1 posts. I find this odd since Faber only offers the USA 'INCH' and the non-USA 'METRIC' versions. Is this 'normal'?

    My tech guy who is doing a set-up & assessment is looking into it and said he may not be able to use the bridge without some sort of modifcation (i.e., moving the stud over 1/32-1/16 of an inch?!). He'll dig in and probably end up calling FABER USA...but has anyone run into this sort of issue before when replacing a stock Gibson bridge on a US made guitar with a Faber or TonePros?

    Another question, was it a bad idea to have the saddles 'pre-notched'? They look to be a bit off vs. the location of the notches on the original saddles. I'm starting to wonder if trying to upgrade the bridge is going to turn out to be a waste of money and/or will just set off a series of issues that need to be addressed.
     
  2. _pete_

    _pete_ Supporting Member

    Messages:
    1,370
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2005
    Location:
    Palm Harbor, Florida
    I just replaced the ABR bridge on my Edwards LP with a Faber yesterday. The post spacing was perfect.
    Does yours have Nashville type posts with inserts or the ABR 'threaded into the wood' posts? Mine has the latter and the Faber fit exactly.
     
  3. Adagietto

    Adagietto Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,392
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2012
    Location:
    Area 52
    I found the Faber bridge hole spacing to be slightly less than Faber's own specs. If your LP bridge stud spacing is even narrower, it may be out of spec.

    Due to the narrowness of the Faber bridge hole spacing, I couldn't install the lock nuts of the Faber Tone-Lock ABR on my '99 Studio, which is at the wide end of the spacing specs. The the non-locking ABRN works fine.

    The notching of the Faber bridges is dead center, which seems to work fine on the two guitars I put them on. The notches are minimal and I had to have them dressed a bit. The saddles are replaceable and available un-notched.
     
  4. FireBottle

    FireBottle Member

    Messages:
    903
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Location:
    Chicago
    It's currently on a bench so I don't have it at the moment. I just got it and basically handed it over to my guy since I was going right in for surgery and wanted him to work on it while I was out of commission.

    I took a few shots with my Nikon just for fun - so stoked about the top on this one.

    [​IMG]

    It's an ABR-1 bridge with the thin posts (vs. the thicker ones that are part of a Nashville bridge). I believe that they're threaded into the wood.

    Thanks for the responses - with your help and support I'll get through this! :drink
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2015
  5. Adagietto

    Adagietto Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,392
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2012
    Location:
    Area 52
    That's a beautiful guitar. You'll get through it. It does seem odd that the original ABR fits and the Faber doesn't.

    If you decide to abandon, you should be able to send the bridge back for a refund. If the stud spacing happens to be off, an option is to put Faber steel posts and inserts in it (BSWKIT or iNsert). That would seem to require some rather precise re-drilling, but may be a worthwhile alternative moving an existing stud.
     
  6. RnB

    RnB Member

    Messages:
    1,103
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2005
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Your Std had a Nashville bridge & posts on there orig? What Faber bridge did you order exactly?

    The Faber Mod for LP Std's (for optimum performance) is to remove the existing bridge bushings & then insert (tap & screw-in) the Faber BSWKIT. Then, couple it w/ the ABRN Bridge.

    Larry used to have a YT Vid on 'how to' do the BSWKIT upgrade but I can't find it. If you've done this, the bridge should fall into place. Locking your TP down is a good upgrade as well. I wouldn't let your tech go about moving the studs on that top...!!! Nice Axe :>)
     
  7. redeyedjim

    redeyedjim Silver Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,355
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2012
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Beautiful guitar!

    I put a Faber ToneLock and stud kit on a cheap GFS travel guitar a few months ago, and they made a HUGE improvement in tone and sustain. One trick to put out there, if anyone else needs to install/replace the stock TOM studs with Faber's studs: Faber recommends driving the studs home with a hammer. I wasn't too keen on that, and decided to use a largish C clamp instead to press the studs in, and that worked great. Just use some scrap wood and maybe a piece of cloth to protect the back of the guitar.
     
  8. FireBottle

    FireBottle Member

    Messages:
    903
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Location:
    Chicago
    The stock bridge that I am replacing with the Faber is the ABR-1...has the wire across the saddle screws. (No way am I going to have any moving of studs!)

    Here's my exact order:
    [​IMG]
     
  9. RnB

    RnB Member

    Messages:
    1,103
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2005
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    From Faber Site:
    Not sure what year your LP is. If you have any uncertainty, contact Larry. He set it straight. There's a few variables that make it difficult about what you need to order so it goes together correctly. I've done quite a few 'conversions' on LP Stds & 335's w/ Nashville bridges/posts & they all went smoothly, but they were all pre-2012. I pulled the old bushings out & rethreaded the holes to accept the Faber BSWKIT threaded studs. I have a Corsa LCPG Faded Std where he's performed all these mods & it's the finest sounding LP I have ever owned. His mods make a difference...

    To my knowledge there's a more efficient tone transfer to the body...if you install the BSWKIT on the guitar. Since I don't see a BSWkit on your order, it sounds like you're just trying to slip the new bridge on the old posts & it's not aligning? How are the bridge 'Tone-Lock' screws going to thread onto the existing Nashville posts if they don't have 6/32 threads...?

    On some of the Faber Pages, there's print on top of print, making it difficult to read (at least, on my computer) what is written. LC needs to fix that.

    Hope this all makes sense...?

    BSWKIT Studs
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2015
  10. RussB

    RussB low rent hobbyist Silver Supporting Member

    Messages:
    11,071
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2004
    Location:
    CT

    The picture you posted of your guitar shows it has a Nashville bridge, yet you say it's an ABR-1 ???
     
  11. Larry Mal

    Larry Mal Member

    Messages:
    1,501
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2012
    I don't know why it's not fitting, but I wouldn't waste any time figuring it out, either. I'd just put on Faber studs in there and then get the bridge on those. I use the iNsert kit, and it's as easy to put in as you can imagine, and will make any guitar better from what Gibson uses.

    There's probably no need for any other solution than that. Good luck!
     
  12. 73Fender

    73Fender Member

    Messages:
    3,982
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2010
    Location:
    NJ
    This is a good thread for anyone considering this mod. Thanks RnB..I may go this route one day.
     
  13. FireBottle

    FireBottle Member

    Messages:
    903
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Location:
    Chicago
    I only know a little bit about the differences between a Nashville and ABR-1 bridge so I'm not sure why it might appear that way. Could you shed some light on the subject for me? I'd appreciate it.

    I will say that ABR-1 is stamped on the underside of the bridge and the posts seem to have a more narrow diameter than the Nashville. Also, it has the retaining wire that runs across the top of the saddle screws.

    Here's another shot with a better shot of the bridge:

    [​IMG]
     
  14. RussB

    RussB low rent hobbyist Silver Supporting Member

    Messages:
    11,071
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2004
    Location:
    CT
    The ABR has 6-32 threaded studs that go directly into the wood. The adjuster wheel is a disc with a threaded hole in the middle

    [​IMG]


    The Nashville bridge uses a stud & adjuster wheel that is all one piece

    [​IMG]


    Here's theNashville to ABR-1 conversion studs. The insert fits the Nashville hole in the body, and has the 6-32 threaded stud for the bridge

    [​IMG]
     
  15. FireBottle

    FireBottle Member

    Messages:
    903
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Location:
    Chicago
    Thanks Larry. I thought the purpose of the inserts you mention is to convert a Nashville bridge to an ABR-1 bridge...they fit the drill holes already in a Nashville equipped guitar but have posts with the narrow diameter of the ABR-1 bridge posts. Does faber the same sort of substantial 'one-piece stud/post insert' to replace the studs and posts on an ABR-1 bridge? Maybe I'm confused.:dunno
     
  16. Adagietto

    Adagietto Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,392
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2012
    Location:
    Area 52
    The BSWKIT and iNsert are substantial replacement studs/inserts that could be used in this case. The original stud holes would need to be enlarged (and tapped, in the case of the BSWKIT).
     
  17. nmontz

    nmontz Member

    Messages:
    743
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    What are you talking about....the threaded bridge posts? Moving a post 1/16-1/32?? Why would you re-drill and move a post??? Just bend the posts out, put the bridge on....I'd have that sucker on already and playing. I bent the posts a smidge on my r6 just so the abr wouldn't fall off as easy on string changes...I probably went farther than what your tech is dealing with.
     
  18. Adagietto

    Adagietto Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,392
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2012
    Location:
    Area 52
    The OP has a Tone-Lock bridge. If the posts are not spaced correctly and parallel, there's a good chance that the locking nuts won't fit.
     
  19. FireBottle

    FireBottle Member

    Messages:
    903
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Location:
    Chicago
    Settle down nmontz. If you read the whole thread you'd see that I think the idea of moving the stud is an absurd hypothetical.
     
  20. nmontz

    nmontz Member

    Messages:
    743
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    OK, I looked how it was designed....If you get the posts through the holes and the nuts started I'll bet it will work. If not I'd just take a drill bit and enlarge the holes in the bridge to get the locking nuts started. No way I'm modding my guitar for a hardware change that may or may not be an improvement in any way.
     

Share This Page