Power requirement question / 500mA?

Messages
84
Morning - i've got a power supply thing that i need to make sense of.
If a (multi) pedal power supply has the following stats: 8 x 9V (1200mA)

Does this mean that it has enough mA to power a pedal that requires 9VDC @ 500mA current draw, providing the other pedals that have been connected don't eat up the 1200mA?

(Assuming the other pedals in the line are more standard 9V 100mA ish)
is this just a matter of maths or does the 500mA pedal require it's own dedicated supply?


sorry if im not verbalizing this well. it's early and im still drunk.
 

s3gle

Member
Messages
392
you would need one of the taps on the multi supply to have its own 500ma+ rating. You want to overshoot by 50-100ma sometimes... IIRC because riding the exact limit in draw can lead to shortage.

average pedals can be daisy chained ~the equivalent ma total without much risk. Multi effect and complex digitals should get separate supply. I would not daisy chain a fuzz to a digi delay. Keep digitals and analog separate to avoid ground loops and bad linkage/underpowering them. no 12vs where a 9v should be etc
 
Messages
84
you would need one of the taps on the multi supply to have its own 500ma+ rating. You want to overshoot by 50-100ma sometimes... IIRC because riding the exact limit in draw can lead to shortage.

average pedals can be daisy chained ~the equivalent ma total without much risk. Multi effect and complex digitals should get separate supply. I would not daisy chain a fuzz to a digi delay. Keep digitals and analog separate to avoid ground loops and bad linkage/underpowering them. no 12vs where a 9v should be etc
tks to both of you -

Here's what im doing

Cali76 > 100mA
JHS BlackCat > 75mA
ChaseTone Secret Pre > 150-200mA
Vintage Small Stone > 100mA (I think)
Quiet Theory Prelude > 100mA (I think)
Sonic Research ST-300 mini > ? prb low.

and then the kicker - Minstrel V2 which requires 500mA


I have a few options for power, but was hoping to use an MXR DC Brick because of its size/weight: 8 x 9V (1200mA), 2 x 18V (800mA)

Was considering a Donner DP-1 - i'll go the GigRig route if i have to, but i'd prefer a one-box solution as this is a mini board build. The Brick gives me the option to run the Cali76 at 18v, which i'd like to try, but not married to it. Cioks DC7 might be the ticket here but im confused by the 9v/660mA thing.. is that too much for the 100mA pedals?
 

The-Kid

Pedal Art: CIOKS/Vboutique/Providence Dealer
Vendor
Messages
2,639
tks to both of you -

Here's what im doing

Cali76 > 100mA
JHS BlackCat > 75mA
ChaseTone Secret Pre > 150-200mA
Vintage Small Stone > 100mA (I think)
Quiet Theory Prelude > 100mA (I think)
Sonic Research ST-300 mini > ? prb low.

and then the kicker - Minstrel V2 which requires 500mA


I have a few options for power, but was hoping to use an MXR DC Brick because of its size/weight: 8 x 9V (1200mA), 2 x 18V (800mA)

Was considering a Donner DP-1 - i'll go the GigRig route if i have to, but i'd prefer a one-box solution as this is a mini board build. The Brick gives me the option to run the Cali76 at 18v, which i'd like to try, but not married to it. Cioks DC7 might be the ticket here but im confused by the 9v/660mA thing.. is that too much for the 100mA pedals?
When your feeding pedals they only draw what they need given your properly powering, using proper voltage etc etc your fine.

When your using a 500ma tap or 660ma your not going to fry your pedal. If the pedal only draws 50ma for example it will only take what it needs from said tap running at 500ma or more and power the pedal fine. If you dont give it enough current it just wont turn on.

In either case your pedals are safe as long as your using proper voltage, polarity, cables etc etc.
 
Messages
84
When your feeding pedals they only draw what they need given your properly powering, using proper voltage etc etc your fine.

When your using a 500ma tap or 660ma your not going to fry your pedal. If the pedal only draws 50ma for example it will only take what it needs from said tap running at 500ma or more and power the pedal fine. If you dont give it enough current it just wont turn on.

In either case your pedals are safe as long as your using proper voltage, polarity, cables etc etc.
tks for this I think im gonna do the Cioks - that donner thing looks crap. the cioks seems to be most versatile.
 
Last edited:

s3gle

Member
Messages
392
Considering your update of earlier I think you would want to run the Cali76 @ 18v in order to put the Kingsley on a 9v tap, if you are only going to use the MXR. I think you would also be under the total draw by only using 9v but since it's there it would make some sense to use the 18v if possible, so that you spread the workload out.

Mind I only barely went through and calculated I don't know for certain. Stink foot is a good resource for planning/faq about these things I'm sure you know that. Good luck seems like it would be OK but about at the limit with what you've got.
 
Messages
84
Considering your update of earlier I think you would want to run the Cali76 @ 18v in order to put the Kingsley on a 9v tap, if you are only going to use the MXR. I think you would also be under the total draw by only using 9v but since it's there it would make some sense to use the 18v if possible, so that you spread the workload out.

Mind I only barely went through and calculated I don't know for certain. Stink foot is a good resource for planning/faq about these things I'm sure you know that. Good luck seems like it would be OK but about at the limit with what you've got.
Very cool of you - tks I'll try the MXR but i suspect it will have some noise.. i dont see how the individual outputs can truly be "isolated" given the price point and build quality. But will give it a go and compare it against a cioks or eventide i'll post back once it's done
 

jnepo1

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
14,684
Very cool of you - tks I'll try the MXR but i suspect it will have some noise.. i dont see how the individual outputs can truly be "isolated" given the price point and build quality. But will give it a go and compare it against a cioks or eventide i'll post back once it's done
It depends on which MXR power supply you actually have. As one is actually a switch mode power supply.
 
Messages
84
It depends on which MXR power supply you actually have. As one is actually a switch mode power supply.
I've ordered a Cioks DC7. The MXR (DC Brick) may very well have switch mode power, but i can't imagine that its anything more than a glorified daisy chain on the inside. Based on its weight alone - there's no way that each bank can be truly isolated. It just feels cheap.. thats not to say its not a good product, but I think for true isolation and clean power, you have to pay up.
 

jnepo1

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
14,684
I've ordered a Cioks DC7. The MXR (DC Brick) may very well have switch mode power, but i can't imagine that its anything more than a glorified daisy chain on the inside. Based on its weight alone - there's no way that each bank can be truly isolated. It just feels cheap.. thats not to say its not a good product, but I think for true isolation and clean power, you have to pay up.
Good choice. Again, it all depends on which version you have, their power lineup is labeled generically, and as such I left it that way in my original post. You won't regret your choice though.
 

lefort_1

Nuzzled Firmly Betwixt
Gold Supporting Member
Messages
14,925
Yep... there a DC-Brick, and a ISO-Brick
A roughly 2x price differential and a roughly 3x physical-volume differential.

Which one has isolated outputs? The bigger/spendier one.

One big hint is that the DC-Brick has 18Vdc as it's power-in.
While it IS possible to construct a DC-to-DC multiple-isolated-output device that runs quite happily on 18Vdc,
it is rather unlikely to fit nicely into a box that could barely hold a deck of playing cards.
 




Top