Princeton Reverb Evaluation Help

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by Texas_Blues, Apr 10, 2015.

  1. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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    Some guy off craigslist is selling me his silverface Princeton Reverb for $400 today. What are somethings that can point me to the value of the guitar amp? He says it works, but he just needs the cash. I'm meeting him at guitar center.

    Here are some pics.

    http://imgur.com/e59eOoT,ffT8P9V,Pz3qeX7,CmwGECa

    It looks really dirty, but nothing simple green can't fix.
     
  2. /13guitarman

    /13guitarman Member

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    You can't touch it for that on Ebay if it works great.
     
  3. teleman1

    teleman1 Supporting Member

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    RUN! and buy it.
     
  4. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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    I most for sure will. Hopefully he doesn't bail. How do I check what year it was made?
     
  5. shovelhead82

    shovelhead82 Member

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    I would buy it at that price.
     
  6. gtrplr71

    gtrplr71 Supporting Member

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    the date code on the OT
     
  7. TJNies

    TJNies Supporting Member

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    It doesn't appear to have the pull-boost volume, so it is 1975 or older. Looking at the reverb cables and 3-prong outlet in the back of the chassis (probably has 3-prong plug as well), I think it is 73 or newer.

    So, look at the codes on the trannys or speaker. They should start with "606-x-yy". The x is the year (5 = 75 etc), yy is the week of that year.

    Take the latest year as the production year (since Fender grabbed parts out of the bin, could be a year or two earlier).

    You can also check the serial # on the back of the chassis, although I don't have the decoder nearby.

    Regardless, if it isn't horribly modded internally, it is certainly worth the $400.
     
  8. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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    Thin lines like this?

    http://cdn.mos.musicradar.com/images/Guitarist/382/fender-68custom-princeton-inputs-630-80.jpg


    I don't think it does in this pic, but it's horrible jpg quality.

    http://i.imgur.com/CmwGECa.jpg
     
  9. gtrplr71

    gtrplr71 Supporting Member

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    you cant go wrong at that price if it has not been modded. I paid 300 for a 65 in 100% condition that was the holy grail in my opinion.
     
  10. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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    Yeah, he originally wanted $1000, but I was able to haggle my way down.
     
  11. gtrplr71

    gtrplr71 Supporting Member

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    I saw that Ad I thought he was a little high, I am glad to hear you talked him down A very nice amp for sure.
     
  12. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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    Yeah especially for the condition it's in. It's really dirty so who knows how well it works, more than likely needs a retubbing and other stuff.
     
  13. gtrplr71

    gtrplr71 Supporting Member

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    The good thing is they are super easy to work on. You cant lose at that price. Post some photos when you get her home.
     
  14. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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    Will do, I'll take some before and after.
     
  15. PurpleJesus

    PurpleJesus Gold Supporting Member Silver Supporting Member

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  16. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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  17. 335guy

    335guy Member

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    Since the serial # stamped on the chassis starts with A7+ 5 digits, that dates it to a 1977 and just prior to Fender starting to use the pull boost on the volume control. Using the date code on the transformers is helpful, but Fender did sometimes use transformers built in a previous yr. I have no idea what speaker that is. It isn't stock.

    From Superior Music:

    1970-1989 -Most amps do not have a date code stamped on the tube location chart. These codes are for amps with the serial number beginning with a letter:

    B+5---digits - 1975-1976
    A6+5-digits - 1976
    A7+5-digits - 1977
    A8+5-digits - 1978
    A9+5-digits - 1979
    F0+5--digits - 1980
    F1+5--digits - 1981
    F2+5-digits - 1982/83
    F3+5-digits - 1983/84
    F4+5-digits - 1984/85
    F9+5-digits - 1979-1980


    From The Fender Field Amp Guide:

    " A "Boost" pull switch was added to the Volume control around '77."

    But I see plenty of 1977 PR's without the pull boost. So I think the 1977 date for adding the pull boost is incorrect. And here on the Fender Guru website, they state the pull boost was added in on the PR in 1978.

    "First in 1978, when the push/pull volume boost was introduced, there was a significant difference from the traditional blackface circuit."

    At any rate, a terrific amp, especially for $400. It may need a cap job ( not expensive ) and you might consider a different speaker if the one in there is not to your liking. I sold my 1978 ( in perfect looking and working condition with new tubes, new caps, custom Weber speaker ) for $900 a few months back.
     
  18. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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    Yeah it has the push pull knob, it's a bit hissy. Might add a celestion gold, I'm not really sure what speaker to add to it. I'll take it to my amp tech to get checked over. What tubes do you recommend?

    How much do cap jobs run?
     
  19. 335guy

    335guy Member

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    Cap jobs ( if it's just the electrolytics ) are less than $100 in my area. Are you sure it has a pull boost? Generally, the ones with a pull boost have that marked on the control plate, like in this photo.

    [​IMG]

    As far as tubes, it depends on the sound you're going for. If you want it as loud and clean as possible, then I like the JJ 6V6 for the power tubes, an inexpensive tube. There are those that want/like a more vintage 6V6. And prices are all over the place for NOS 6V6's. The preamp tubes are usually 12AX7's, except for the reverb driver, and the of course, the rectifier tube. IMO, I hear very subtle differences in the preamp tubes, and I've tried lots of different ones. For new tubes, some like JJ, others like Tungsol. I've tried old Sylvanias, RCA's and didn't notice a big difference. You just have to experiment, especially with the V1 position, which will make the biggest difference, if at all.

    As for speakers, some say it isn't a PR if you change it to a 12" speaker. I kinda agree and kept mine to a 10" speaker and choose a Weber Cali 10. I liked it, but others like the Weber 10F150. Some prefer the Eminence Copperhead, Ragin Cajun or Legend 10516. Some like the WGS 10's, and others say only a JBL 10" will do. And others prefer Celestions or Jensens. It's really a matter of preference.

    If you plan on gigging in a band with it, I would recommend getting an efficient speaker with a db rating of 100+, because it's not a loud amp and a more efficient speaker helps get a bit more volume out of it.
     
  20. Texas_Blues

    Texas_Blues Member

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    I pulled the volume and it popped up, so it seems like it is. As for the speaker, would I have to modify the amp in any way, or is it just a matter of making new screw holes? I'd probably be using this as a recording amp. I've got a 35 watt groove tubes amp with a celestion gold for live stuff.

    Thanks!
     

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