Discussion in 'Guitars in General' started by TwoGeez, Jul 3, 2006.
Can anyone tell me the process? Thanks
Hey, I've done one neck with Tru-Oil, and several with Reranch nitro. I like the Tru-oil better, even years later.
The packet of tru-oil that i got came with a "Walnut" tint bottle bundled, and I used this first. I diluted the tint/stain with water, then applied until I got the color i wanted, then gave it several days of low humidity to dry. Then I the got to the oil: I gently heated the oil in a plastic bowl that sat in a container of hot (tap) water, double-boiler-style, and then simply applied a thin (warm) layer with me finger. waited 24 hours, then did another coat. 24 hours, a 3rd coat. Gave it a bit of a gentle rub with 0000 Grey Pad, and called it a neck. 3 years later, it's still tits!
go to wal mart and get birchwood casey tru oil its what music man uses . pour a little on a paper towel or use your fingers and wipe it on the neck in a light and even coat. let it sit over night then buff it with some 0000 steel wool do this two or three times and your done.
i love the feel of a oil finished neck. when you want to clean it use murphys oil soap it cleans it right up.
any picts? Did you buy the necks/guitars without finish on the neck or did you strip the neck first before the tru oil treatment. I have a 'sacrificial' pointy headstock guitar from the 80s that nees a new neck so I might practice on the old one to see if I like it...
Hope this link works - it's the copper tele, new maple neck...
I bought an unfinished neck from Tommy at USACustom... He told me if I wanted that EVH thing I should use the Birchwood Casey gunstock oil followed by the gunstock wax... He told me three coats of oil and a coat of wax, and to buff with 0000 wool. He didn't get real descriptive with the process though (i.e. how long to let dry between coats and how often to buff) and I just thought some folks here might know so I wouldn't have to waste time tracking down Tommy... thanks for all the help guys/gals.
look at the Thread about my Allparts neck. I did exactly as Tommy described, you just wipe the Tru-oil on w/ a paper towel and let it dry about an hour between coats, steel wool it between each coat and befor the Wax, there are some pics of mine in that thread as well. I used a rattlecan nitro for my headstock face , I was unsure about waterslide decals and Tru-oil plus I wanted the more trad look on the peghead. I used only 2 coats of tru-oil on my fretboard cause I want it to start to dirty up a little sooner and didnt want to feel a thick finish, this method is almost too easy and I LOVE the results
Does this work well on a maple fingerboard-equipped neck? That would make life oh so much easier.
the gun stock oil works great.
Thanks a million... can't wait to put it on.
Keep in mind it's not only good for necks, but also works great on bodies. This was raw unfinished mahogany (with no finish it looked similar to unfinished alder) and I used three coats of Birchwood Casey gunstock oil, a few rounds with steel wool and micromesh, and one coat of Minwax paste wax ...
Nice grain in that board. Well done.
Nice job... where's the body from?
I'm using it on a two-piece maple. Supposedly this is the finish Ernie Ball uses on their EVH Music Man guitars, which are also one piece maple.
Well, I'm in the process right now... just put the first coat on... man this is easy and it already looks great.
I'm doing the neck of my Seagull acoustic right now.
It's almost ready for its second coat.
It's really easy to do and next to impossible to screw up.
This is the third neck I've done with Tru-Oil, it works great!!!
Thanks! It's an Ebay body, but I can't remember the sellers name (I've had it for awhile but just got around to finishing it a couple of months ago). I think it's actually more of a Charvel San Dimas (or similar) shape than a true strat shape ...
I think I laid it on too thick on the fingerboard... Should it still feel slightly tacky after an hour and a half of drying time?