Question of (Callaham) steel trem blocks

it is worth much more than it costs...

but measure your bridge accurately!

 

you would be better off just replacing the whole trem. the block is great but you will still be stuck with inferior saddles, screws,etc. You also have to consider whether your trem arm threads will line up with the callaham blocks threads, it may not, in which case you would need his arm or an american vintage type arm from fender. (callaham is better-SS steel). I would consider a whole new bridge by callaham or a high-quality gotoh retrofit one with a steel block. The callaham is tops but might require some redrilling(maybe not though).

 

yes the bridge comes with the cold-rolled steel block, the plate,steel saddles,hardened mounting screw, stainless arm, everything. for 30 bucks more it is totally worth it.

 

It's a great value in my opinion, plus I liked his saddles way better than the vintage fenders on my 62 reissue.

Latif

 

agree with above, the callaham stuff is top quality.
you should be very happy with whatever you end up with.
i've been very impressed with what i've have used so far.

 

I put the Mexican upgrade kit, which includes the block and pivot screws, into a MIM Strat I just got. The difference was huge. I'm no cork sniffer, and even though I have some good stuff, I don't obsess over whether the treble control is at 4, 4.5 or 5. Just get close and I'll work with it. But the difference this block made was like night and day. Sounded like a whole different guitar. I thought it was serviceable when I bought it, and sounded better than the other MIM's and several AS Strats I'd tried, but now it is so solid sounding, that I'd put it up there with the "special" ones folks have found.

I don't know about cryogenically treated jackplates, but I have a Callaham AS Tele replacement bridge that was worth every penny too. He's got something going on.

I've had very little in the was of personal interaction with him. Hasn't been necessary, just fax in the order and it shows up way sooner than I expect. But from what I've heard, he will probably work with you on selling you just a bridge plate so you can use the saddles you already have. Give him a call.

 

Go ahead and get the whole thing because as stated above your saddles and overall build quality of the rest of your bridge is still going to be inferior. The block makes a night and day difference in tone and the bridge improves tuning stability and reduces strings breaking and also makes a noticeable difference in tone and sustain.....The Calaham bridges build quality is way beyond the conventional bridges...You gotta check it out...I actually reviewed this product on my website if you want to read more about it...and no I have nothing to do with Calaham but I look for the really good stuff....

peerless
www.peerlesstone.com

 

The block is not bored as deeply as a Fender block so the strings end up going through the body like a hard tail. I felt it definitely made my guitar resonate more. A good purchase.

 

I put a Vintage S style Strat assembly on my 79 (which I bought new in 79) also opted for the shorter "64" pop in arm...
Like others have said, this was totally worth the money, and then some.
I had experimented with pups quite a bit in the past, then finally found my "Keeper" set about a year ago.
The WCR SR set with a full RS kit really raised the tone bar on the old gal, and it really started to get some play time again.
Then a few months back, I decided to try the Callaham bridge mainly because I wanted a (serviceable) trem back again. I had broken the arm off in the block about 25 years ago, and several attempts to remove it just resulted in broken easy-outs. So it remained a hardtail for years.
The trem is nice... But the increased sustain, and the tonal improvement was an even bigger step up than finding my "Keeper" pups.
So then the Strat was moved to #1 status again, but the frets were about shot, and I never really liked the poly finish on the Maple neck (Maple board as well, with skunk stripe on back).
So about a month ago I sent it to Best Frets in California.
Michael Tuttle is simply amazing! He stripped the whole neck (except the front of the headstock) installed SS 6105's and a new bone nut, and now I just can't seem to put it down.
Removing that awful poly finish was like removing a blanket from covering my speaker cabs. The guitar now feels "Alive" and sounds, and resonates like never before. Of course the jewel like SS frets are simply awesome to play, and bend like silk on glass.
Your question was only concerning the Callaham bridge, and that was a big improvement to be sure, and I would highly suggest one.
However, you might want to run a search on previous Callaham posts as a few people have had mixed results with using them.
The gist of it is that a few guys have felt that adding the Callaham with the steel block put (and only a few) "Some" guitars a little over the top in the treble zone.
My Strat is an Alder body w/ a Maple neck, and it sounds great. Maybe the guys who thought "Too much treble/icepick" had Ash bodies...? Who knows.
So the conclusion goes like this.
While the highest praise that I can give any product or service is: I would do/buy it again.
I would/will definitely buy another Callaham bridge when and if I get another Strat style guitar, maybe one with a Rosewood board for variety?
And while I am pretty sure that you will not be putting the kind of money that WCR and Tuttle would require into your Squire, this is just my Strat story and I hope it helps you.
Tony

 

Money well spent for the whole assembly, great quality and a night and day improvement vs. what you have on there now.