Raise the stopbar on my les paul?

bluesjuke

Disrespected Elder
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24,126
I advise, except in the case of the OP trying to get max tension, experimenting with your stop piece height.
There are tonal effects at varying heights and when you find the best one that work for a particular guitar it's rewarding.

Most of mine end up with the bottom of the stop piece even with the bottom of the ABR-1 wheels or not much lower.

Automatically dropping it to the bottom is to me like having a knee jerk desire to install Grovers- both were fads that hung around, nothing much more.

If you like those things fine but I'd bet that the majority of these done are...."just because".
 

Rhomco

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My name is DRS and I am a top wrapper . . .
My name is rhomco and I am a top wrapper as well. I hear and feel the difference and have been since 1969. I also have been known to place tuner washer(s) under my stoptail to maintain tone coupling if I want it off the body. Works just like an expensive spacer but costs nothing.
Rob
 

rockinlespaul

Member
Messages
3,854
I eliminated that problem with a wraptail.:D

Seriously though, drop your tailpiece and try top wrapping just to get it out of the way. You might like it, you may not. I do usually play a wraptail so I don't have that problem but with my abr bridge guitars, I found I prefered it on some but not all....:bonk

It will definetely give you a slinkier feel. If you play 10's they will feel like 9's.
 

hodad

Member
Messages
395
My name is rhomco and I am a top wrapper as well. I hear and feel the difference and have been since 1969. I also have been known to place tuner washer(s) under my stoptail to maintain tone coupling if I want it off the body. Works just like an expensive spacer but costs nothing.
Rob
The Faber system is more than a spacer. The lower flange is removed from the studs, coupling the entire mechanism. The difference is fairly dramatic, it really opens up a LP: http://cvguitars.com/Faber/ToneLock.html
 

chilipedals

Member
Messages
19
Good timing on this thread for me. I just got my first non-wraptail LP and it has a piezo bridge. In my case I tightened down the stoptail and it helps stop some of the extra piezo chatter that comes in when that pickup is on. I still have clearance.
 

Onioner

Member
Messages
2,860
I'd be most concerned with breaking strings. I'm a tension junky, and dropping that tail as far as it goes does serve to increase string tension, so I do what I gotta do, which means no Nashville and sometimes no abr, which is fine, as I dislike those bridges anyways.
 

tjmicsak

Member
Messages
5,603
Does anyone know what a typical 10-46 string set tension is for each string?

I'm thinking that if those number were known and you average them out you could take that tension and figure out the vectors for any given break angle.
Too steep a break angle and you are actuall loosing string down force to lateral force, and too shallow you will loose down force. The idea would be to figure out which string break angle maximizes the vertical down force vector on the saddles. This would maximize sustain as it would transfer the most string energy solidly down into the body wood with the least amount of lateral losses. That would be the sweet spot.
 

Onioner

Member
Messages
2,860
Someone (d'addario?) Has a handy chart on thei site. I used it to figure out sizing for an open tuning.
 

John Vasco

Member
Messages
1,839
I see some wonderful 'facts' on whacking the tailpiece down, and top-wrapping, and the effect on sustain which is clearly discernable. And smile...

Go read Dan's book and make up your own mind as to what suits you best.
 

Bhodie

Member
Messages
603
Does anyone know what a typical 10-46 string set tension is for each string?

I'm thinking that if those number were known and you average them out you could take that tension and figure out the vectors for any given break angle.
Too steep a break angle and you are actuall loosing string down force to lateral force, and too shallow you will loose down force. The idea would be to figure out which string break angle maximizes the vertical down force vector on the saddles. This would maximize sustain as it would transfer the most string energy solidly down into the body wood with the least amount of lateral losses. That would be the sweet spot.
In my mind, string tension to pitch requires that between the nut and the saddle, there is "x" tension. Regardless of how the tension is achieved, it has to be exactly "x" to achieve an particular note for that string gauge.

You also mention "down force" on the tom, but there is a corresponding "up force" on the bridge (as top wrappers can attest, it can result in twist if the post gap is a little sloppy). Additionally, you have what is going on up at the nut and tuner end.

I have no answers :bonk just mentioning other potential variables.
 

Sancho

Member
Messages
632
I started top wrapping my Les Paul Studios in the mid nineties because I broke an inordinate amount of strings and I figured reducing the angle would reduce breakage. So far it's worked for me, and I do it on pretty much every stop-tail/T-O-M guitar I buy.

Did it change my tone? Can't say I noticed much difference but then I wasn't explicitly listening for it either :huh

It's one of those habits you get into. Works for me, may not work for others.
 




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