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Re-covering a cab ....

eric-d

Member
Messages
3,409
I'm looking to take the tolex off my HRDlx and retolex it with materials from Mojo. Has anyone tried this - and how difficult did you think it was?! Thanks in advance!
 

deepbluez

Member
Messages
234
Let's see...I re-tolexed a 60s ampeg gemini - original covering was mostly gone, and what was there was hanging off - in the course of a restoration.

I removed the chassis and all hardware, then the tolex. Try keeping the pieces intact - don't just rip it off - and use them as templates for cutting the new material. Sand/remove the old adhesive from the cab and then vacuum/tack cloth to remove any dust, etc. I used regular contact cement but I believe there's a special tolex adhesive. Ampeg blue diamond pattern complicated things a bit - solid tolex would be much easier methinks.

Difficult? If the idea of it seems intimidating, it might be best to have someone do it for you. If not, go for it. Best to have a well-ventilated work space with decent ventilation and some big, flat surfaces to work on.

As always, measure twice, cut once! Took my time over the course of several days...fun project that turned out fantastic. Do it again? You bet.

Hope this helps.

dpblz
 

eric-d

Member
Messages
3,409
The board was offline for at least 2 of those hours.

Do some searching! There's lots of info here on TGP regarding this.
Uhhmm... thanks rookie....

Let's see...I re-tolexed a 60s ampeg gemini - original covering was mostly gone, and what was there was hanging off - in the course of a restoration.

I removed the chassis and all hardware, then the tolex. Try keeping the pieces intact - don't just rip it off - and use them as templates for cutting the new material. Sand/remove the old adhesive from the cab and then vacuum/tack cloth to remove any dust, etc. I used regular contact cement but I believe there's a special tolex adhesive. Ampeg blue diamond pattern complicated things a bit - solid tolex would be much easier methinks.

Difficult? If the idea of it seems intimidating, it might be best to have someone do it for you. If not, go for it. Best to have a well-ventilated work space with decent ventilation and some big, flat surfaces to work on.

As always, measure twice, cut once! Took my time over the course of several days...fun project that turned out fantastic. Do it again? You bet.

Hope this helps.

dpblz
I can see how the Ampeg pattern would be really time consuming..... It does sound like a fun project! It me - it doesn't seem hard - just wanted to see if anyone has had any luck with it!!
 

Dale

Member
Messages
10,311
I have done new cabs, but not redone one. It is a bit tricky in some ways, but if careful and you have a sense of how to do the corners (inside and outside) it is not too bad.
 

Dickie Fredericks

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
10,773
There was a big thread here a year ago or so. I redid my 900 combo after that and it tuned out just fine. Ill be doing a 4 x 12 cab starting next week. Ill keep ya posted...

Here's the combo...







 

Option

Member
Messages
309
I once re-covered a Fender Twin. Came out beautiful, but it was A LOT of work. I would pay Mojo or somebody to do it if had to do it again. You learn a bunch doing it youself, but you'll be learning on YOUR AMP. Unless you'll be doing more later, I wouldn't want to learn on my own amp (like I did).
 

candh

Member
Messages
1,914
Eric,

You've picked a fairly difficult project as your first re-covering job. May I suggest trying a marshall head cab first...lol. No?...ok. The problem is you have a cab that is tolexed in the /13 style of overlapping seams and cut corners as well as the control area cut out.
A heat gun is a must for removing tolex and putting it on. Cut your material with a lot of extra width. Mark the center line of the material and a centerline around the cab ensuring allignment. The order in which you tolex is up to you. But I like to lay the sides on first. Do the corners (good luck)without gluing the underlying seam edge down. Tape that edge down with masking tape and make your cut. When you glue the overlapping top piece don't glue to the end. Do the same procedure you did for the underlying edge. If you mess up the corners (probability is high) three tab metal corners will make an attractive addition...hehehe. Good luck with it and just reserve your thinking to the fact that you will be a great "tolexer" five jobs after this one.:rotflmao

Seriously though, it is all about getting a good routine down. And if you are using sovent based cements...let them really tack up before laying down. Trapped gasses will ruin all your best efforts. I have to replace a side of a head cab that I tolexed yesterday that bubbled...bummer.
 
Messages
46
I'm just days away from starting the same job, but with a 1x12 cabinet. I'm not re-applying, as it's a new cabinet and I'll be covering bare wood. I've made a list of links that will hopefully have the info I need.

This document apparently has a good reputation:
http://us.f13.yahoofs.com/bc/43c71b...ex+Application+Text+File.htm?BCTyYgHBHXM8S39W
Here are the pictures that go with it:
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/ff243/Casey4s/The Tolex Tutorial-Tolexing a Corner/

Here's a thread on this site by Southbay Ampworks which I found helpful:
https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/70200&page=3

And I thought this document was helpful. It's very Vox-centric:
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/voxamp/voxcab.htm

My order from Mojo will probably be arriving tomorrow, so I'll be giving this all a go in the next few days myself.

Best of luck!
 

eric-d

Member
Messages
3,409
Good info guys - thanks... I have read about letting the solvent tack first and I have a pretty good idea about how to do corners - I used to help my Dad cover his RC airplanes when I was a kid - so I have a little bit of history with a heat gun!! :D I was going to sand it back to bare wood to make sure there's no previous "glue bumps" that are going to show "nipples" on the new tolex.
 

Scott Auld

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
12,323
Good luck, Eric :) Take pics of the project and post 'em

<--- has an amp that could use a re-cover
 

gooma

Member
Messages
451
Hi Eric,

I`m going to take some pics of my next tolex job and post a tutorial on here for others to see.

I`ll try and describe what i do here tho,

Make sure you remove all the excess glue/tolex from your cab, do this by removing the tolex first, dampen the remaining tolex glue with turps or laquer thinners. Dont drench it tho.
Then scrape it off using a scraper, once you`ve done a decent job there sand it back a little to ensure the remaining surface is nice and smooth.

I allways allow around 2" either side of the cab when cutting out tolex, it`s also a good idea to place the tolex on the floor and place your cab on top, and mark the outline with a sharpie.

Using contact cement brush the glue on the tolex first, then brush it onto the cab, i allways use generous amounts. Wait around 25mins and then place the cab back onto the tolex, using the outlines drawn earlier with the sharpie.

The corners are obviously harder, i start by doing all the flat surfaces first. Then doing all the edges and corners last, the contact cement on the tolex will help it stretch somewhat when doing your corners.

I cut each corner to shape, by folding it over and cutting down the middle of the fold in a straight line, to the corner of the cab. Use tape or whatever else makes the job easier.

I really think allowing the contact cement to dry a little (25mins) and by having a decent amount on both surfaces does help a lot.

Thats probably about as far as i can go without pics so stay tuned as i`ll try and post some soon.

cheers
Brad
 

eric-d

Member
Messages
3,409
Hi Eric,

I`m going to take some pics of my next tolex job and post a tutorial on here for others to see.

I`ll try and describe what i do here tho,

Make sure you remove all the excess glue/tolex from your cab, do this by removing the tolex first, dampen the remaining tolex glue with turps or laquer thinners. Dont drench it tho.
Then scrape it off using a scraper, once you`ve done a decent job there sand it back a little to ensure the remaining surface is nice and smooth.

I allways allow around 2" either side of the cab when cutting out tolex, it`s also a good idea to place the tolex on the floor and place your cab on top, and mark the outline with a sharpie.

Using contact cement brush the glue on the tolex first, then brush it onto the cab, i allways use generous amounts. Wait around 25mins and then place the cab back onto the tolex, using the outlines drawn earlier with the sharpie.

The corners are obviously harder, i start by doing all the flat surfaces first. Then doing all the edges and corners last, the contact cement on the tolex will help it stretch somewhat when doing your corners.

I cut each corner to shape, by folding it over and cutting down the middle of the fold in a straight line, to the corner of the cab. Use tape or whatever else makes the job easier.

I really think allowing the contact cement to dry a little (25mins) and by having a decent amount on both surfaces does help a lot.

Thats probably about as far as i can go without pics so stay tuned as i`ll try and post some soon.

cheers
Brad
Thanks for the info - I appreciate it!
 




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