Rewiring my G&L ASAT Special

Messages
6
Hello everyone, I'm wanting to rewire my G&L ASAT. What I want to do is flip the switch plate backwards so that the switch is at the back, and then swap the tone knob with the volume knobs so that I can control the volume without the switch in the way. I'd like to know if I can order new pots/caps a wire to replace the old. Anyone know what I need to order?
 

walterw

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
41,005
why would you need to replace anything?

at most, you might need some extra wire to get the volume pot connection to reach the switch, and you might also need to dremel away some wood in the cavity to get the switch to clear.

if you did need new parts, regular CTS audio taper 250k pots and CRL switch will work great and can be found anywhere.
 
Messages
6
Found it on a different thread. It should have a .1 uf on the tone control with I believe a 6.8k from the tone control to ground to keep it from getting too muddy. The volume pot has a 220p cap across to preserve the highs. Actually that may be a 200p across the volume pot but the difference will be almost zero, 220p is more common.
 

Jon C

Member
Messages
17,877
Found it on a different thread. It should have a .1 uf on the tone control with I believe a 6.8k from the tone control to ground to keep it from getting too muddy. The volume pot has a 220p cap across to preserve the highs. Actually that may be a 200p across the volume pot but the difference will be almost zero, 220p is more common.

Well, OK, then would that not be already there in the standard configuration? Here is the diagram from G&L:

http://www.glguitars.com/schematics/ASAT_schematic_blockdiagram.pdf

Is this a mod you want to make in addition to the change of position in the original question/post? Are you saying the guitar as you have it now is not properly configured as it should be OEM? :crazy
 

AdmiralB

Member
Messages
3,060
LOL...a 'deadman' resistor to keep you from zeroing the tone control.

Reminds me of the little 'stoppers' GM put on the carb linkage on '67-'69 Firebirds, to keep the secondaries from opening all the way - so the engines would be less-powerful than the same units in GTOs.

"You can't be trusted with a tone control with no safety!!!"
 

walterw

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
41,005
^ha!

either way, the little added-on doodads don't matter here, they're still regular pots and a regular 3-way switch.
 
Messages
6
Just because it doesn't make sense to you doesn't mean it's wrong. It means you don't know what they (he Leo) was thinking. Read a post a day or two ago on a G&L page saying something about the guitar model I own being set up with 250k pot for one, and 500k for the other. That's why I'm asking. I can't find that post. I realize I can just buy some CTS pots and be done with it. That's not what I want. I want to know what he was thinking.
 

walterw

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
41,005
It might go to 11 on the way up, but when you dial it back it can't go all the way back.
yeah, "0 to 10" > "3 to 11"

for that matter, no reason not to go with "0 to 11", a straight-up 500k tone pot! if you want the sound of the 250k tone all the way up, just nudge it back to around "7".
 

AdmiralB

Member
Messages
3,060
you mean the goofy switching jack

The switching jack is probably drawn because they were using Switchcraft 152s, which are TRS jacks. Probably made sense to stock only 152s, instead of a mix of 151s and 152s.

Hamer did a kind-of-similar thing starting in around 2000; they used TRS jacks - albeit the standard Switchcraft open-frames - on all guitars, I think because they felt it added a little extra plug retention friction.
 




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