running 2 heads into one cab?

[coolhand78]

is it possible to run 2 heads into one cab (given that they both have the same impedance)?

cheers

 

[PatrickE_FenderADV]

if the cab is wired in stereo, why not? I had a 2x12 marshall cab that was switchable between mono and stereo. That would've worked for two heads.

Hey... I just came up with a sweet rig, my old marshall 2x12 stereo cab with a Vox Night Train and a Egnater Rebel 20.

 

[alguit]

Yes, Radial Engineering makes the Headbone, which allows one to switch between two heads into one cab; there is a safety feature built in so that there's always a load-thus, no fried heads! Great product!

 

[alguit]

I forgot to mention that they make two versions, one for tube heads and one for solid state.

 

[plato67]

+1 on the Headbone...great piece of kit.

 

[freaksho]

in case it wasn't clear the answer is NO, not without a switching unit like the Headbone that applies a load to the head not in use.

 

[ManleyF]

in case it wasn't clear the answer is NO, not without a switching unit like the Headbone that applies a load to the head not in use.

But in the case of a stereo cab as mentioned above, isn't ok to us a simple A/B switch between your guitar and 2 heads, and then have each head hooked up to each speaker (or pair) in the stereo cab?
So.... Then you'd have one amp and one of the speaker(s) on at a time, and all going at once if it was a A/B/Y switch right?

 

[tbone666]

yeah. with my stereo voodoo 4x12 slant.

 

[Nigel11]

Joe Bonamassa runs 2 heads per cabinet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aX3TN0yJEog

 

[freaksho]

But in the case of a stereo cab as mentioned above, isn't ok to us a simple A/B switch between your guitar and 2 heads, and then have each head hooked up to each speaker (or pair) in the stereo cab?
So.... Then you'd have one amp and one of the speaker(s) on at a time, and all going at once if it was a A/B/Y switch right?

sure, of course. a stereo cab is like two speaker cabs in one box, wired separately (when both inputs used).

 

[cameron]

But in the case of a stereo cab as mentioned above, isn't ok to us a simple A/B switch between your guitar and 2 heads, and then have each head hooked up to each speaker (or pair) in the stereo cab?
So.... Then you'd have one amp and one of the speaker(s) on at a time, and all going at once if it was a A/B/Y switch right?

Theoretically yes, but in that case you're running two separate speakers (or pairs of speakers) that happen to be mounted in the same box.

In setting up a rig like that, you need to make sure that each speaker (or pair of speakers) can handle the power output of the heads in question. Thus if you have two speakers with 30 watt handling, the 2x12 cab would be rated at 60 watts, but running each speaker separately, in a true stereo set-up, each individual speaker would be on it's own, and you shouldn't run a head rated at more than around 15 watts into each side.

 

[SgtThump]

Theoretically yes, but in that case you're running two separate speakers (or pairs of speakers) that happen to be mounted in the same box.

In setting up a rig like that, you need to make sure that each speaker (or pair of speakers) can handle the power output of the heads in question. Thus if you have two speakers with 30 watt handling, the 2x12 cab would be rated at 60 watts, but running each speaker separately, in a true stereo set-up, each individual speaker would be on it's own, and you shouldn't run a head rated at more than around 15 watts into each side.

Well, only if you plan to blast the amp at high volume levels, though. Right? I mean, running a 100-watt amp into a single speaker rated at 15-watts isn't going to automatically damage it. Only if you crank it up pretty good, me thinks.

 

[cameron]

Well, only if you plan to blast the amp at high volume levels, though. Right? I mean, running a 100-watt amp into a single speaker rated at 15-watts isn't going to automatically damage it. Only if you crank it up pretty good, me thinks.

A 100 watt amp? It might blow a speaker rated at 15 watts even with the volume on 1. If you hit a nice big chord . . .

Really cranking it up you'd be running the risk of blowing a speaker rated at 100 watts - a conservative set-up would pair it with a single speaker rated at 200 watts.

 

[SgtThump]

A 100 watt amp? It might blow a speaker rated at 15 watts even with the volume on 1. If you hit a nice big chord . . .

Really cranking it up you'd be running the risk of blowing a speaker rated at 100 watts - a conservative set-up would pair it with a single speaker rated at 200 watts.

Really? Running a 100 watt amp on 1 into a 15-watt speaker could blow it? I don't see how, considering a 15-watt amp cranked up is much louder than any 100-watt amp on 1.

I've run Marshall SuperLeads full blast into a 4x12" cab loaded with 25-watt Greenies and never had a problem. Supposedly, those "100-watt" SuperLeads really put out more than 100-watts.

Maybe I'm just super lucky?

 

[cameron]

I've run Marshall SuperLeads full blast into a 4x12" cab loaded with 25-watt Greenies and never had a problem. Supposedly, those "100-watt" SuperLeads really put out more than 100-watts.

Maybe I'm just super lucky?

A 100 watt super-lead puts out around 100 watts with the volume at around 3-4 on the dial. Cranked it can put out more than 200 watts in short peaks.

You want to live on the edge? That's cool. Sadly, speakers often sound best when they're about to die . . .

 

[Zero]

I had the Radial Headbone for awhile but returned it because it leaves a gap when you switch between heads. A gap in the sound. It's not a huge gap but annoying enough. I want something that is immediate, no gap in sound. My research found the Palmer E-Frog+Triline would do the job I want but at a cost. I think around $600. Same with CAE=$.