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sandpaper/scotch-brite/scrub-buds for sticky maple neck?

Jimmy25

Member
Messages
136
ok as other suggested, forget about lemon oil / powder,
now which one should I use,
I was able to dig out these three stuffs from my house:


for sticky vintage maple poly finish neck:
sandapaper (made in japan) or
3M scotch-brite (made in korea) or
scrub buds (made in korea) ?

going for a permanent solution.

how do I know when to stop?

after applying any of those,
is there any other process that follows after this step?
and is the maple neck going to look much different?
or hardly recognizable?
 
Last edited:

BrenReg

Member
Messages
196
I've used scotch brite followed by 1500-sandpaper on all of my poly necks. I don't sand it down to the wood, but leave it a non-sticky, satin like finish. Makes a huge improvement in feel. It will make the finish slightly lighter in color, especially in necks with a vintage tint, but not really that noticeable. Good luck!
 

G Man

Member
Messages
1,020
I don't have anything to add, but, haven't there been like umpteen threads on this in the past week alone? I'm not usually one to point these things out, but at a certain point it just gets ridiculous.
 

19181911

Senior Member
Messages
841
I just use a warm damp rag and clean the back of the neck and then play it until it isn't sticky anymore.
 

gulliver

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
10,685
FYI ... the scotchbrite you buy for pots and pans is way too coarse for most finishing, you need the special woodworking stuff with their own grit values.
 

DaveG

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
2,503
This is the third thread you've started on this. :facepalm

In your first thread, I posted that it was an easy DIY fix (it is), and you should try it. I have since changed my mind about the second part... You should take it to a pro & let them do it.
 

XmasTree

Member
Messages
3,960
i wouldn't use those

i went to walmart and got 1500 grit wet/dry paper and made really soft circles.
...little at a time

don't make it so complicated, you're simply taking off just a tiny bit of the surface finish
 

nrandall85

Member
Messages
2,323
This is the last micromesh warning I'm going to issue before you leave new poly grain patterns in your neck.
 
Messages
8,093
This is the third thread you've started on this. :facepalm

In your first thread, I posted that it was an easy DIY fix (it is), and you should try it. I have since changed my mind about the second part... You should take it to a pro & let them do it.
No sh*t, dude!! You have been generously offered tons of good advice and you keep persisting with this blather. The content of your threads has me fully convinced that you are utterly unqualified to perform any of this work. Stop creating all these new threads and go to a professional, and pay him the money he deserves to get the job done correctly.
 

gulliver

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
10,685
i wouldn't use those

i went to walmart and got 1500 grit wet/dry paper and made really soft circles.
...little at a time

don't make it so complicated, you're simply taking off just a tiny bit of the surface finish
I'm deglossing a poly and trying to find a logical finish ... does the 1500 grit leave a nice matte finish? Or will it shine too much. Black paint, so I don't want overly visible swirls.
 

JUSTJOB

Member
Messages
2,404
0000 Steel Wool will easily give you a satin neck with a silky feel that will be free of any scratches. It will simply leave a satin sheen on the back of the neck, and as a plus would be very hard to over do or mess up anything.
 

ianb

Member
Messages
2,083
0000 Steel Wool will easily give you a satin neck with a silky feel that will be free of any scratches. It will simply leave a satin sheen on the back of the neck, and as a plus would be very hard to over do or mess up anything.
Right on, nothing more needed.
 

rockonomics

Member
Messages
516
0000 Steel Wool will easily give you a satin neck with a silky feel that will be free of any scratches. It will simply leave a satin sheen on the back of the neck, and as a plus would be very hard to over do or mess up anything.
Just take the neck off if possible. Take the tuners off. Don't get the steel wool bits into yer pups.
the red scotchbrite is the ticket for a natural finish neck. No steel wool, you don't even have to take the strings off. But WTF do I know. The first guitar I did this to was back before many of you children were born.
To you, us old farts don't know ****. In about 5 years you'll discover we learned a bunch in a big hurry.
 

Quintus

Member
Messages
508
I used the same scotch brite pad that you have, very lightly, and in just a couple minutes had a satin-smooth neck. First time I'd done something like that to a guitar of mine, so I was a bit hesitant. It seemed the least invasive fix to me, didn't impact the looks of the neck and worked like a charm. The guys at Grosh recommend the burgandy colored scotch brite pad on the necks of their guitars, BTW, but that green one worked just fine for me.
 

old goat

Member
Messages
1,987
I'd use the white and gray scotchbrite, I think the red is a little too coarse, and definitely not the green. The 1000 grit paper you have, lubricated with a little water with a touch of dish soap will work as well. Don't use any of the other stuff. (See my other post on this page another thread about deglossing--did you write that one too?
 




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