it seems about 100 bucks i paid 90 for mine 3 months ago. it is super nice! against my modded ts-9 ac booster even rc booster it won it can do gain and clean boost and is very transparent, my barber direct drive beat it in the ts type though.
Awwww, no... Really? Paid 39 bucks for mine brand new & it was worth every penny.
But no more. It's a nice little OD, but certainly no better (IMO) than the BadMonkey currently available new for around . . . . 39 bucks. Got to admit, tho', I was happy to get the last US made monkey in town - even tho' everyone says they're sonically identical.
Didn't Nobels reissue this pedal in a silver casing? If so, what's the story? The new version's not as good? Has anyone actually compared them?
Dang, I've gigged the ODR and its got a few chips in the finish. Had I only known, it would have gone straight to the vault where I keep all the 'good stuff'. Guess I oughta shrink wrap that monkey and put im in my safety deposit box.
i would definately shrink wrap that sucker... problem is supply and demand. those monkeys are of course from a huge distributor (digitech) and probably have 25,000 or more out there. check ebay. odr-1 history you will see up to 100 bucks for that sucker. i was gonna get a monkey but figured it would be in this same ballpark. thanks for clarifying that. story about the RI is it isnt supposed to be nearly as good havent tried it myself. when did you buy yours for 39 new? thats pretty good, i guess as good as the monkey, but now i think i will sell my nobels and get a monkey maybe 2 )
Derek, try the monkey w/your own gear before you dump your ODR1, as the EQ sections of these two pedals are a bit different, the monkey having the more traditional bass'n'treble controls. Where they are very similar is in the way the individual notes of a chord retain clarity. That's the acid test of a low/medium-gain OD for me, and one real quick way to weed out the bad ones in a shootout.
I don't know what kind of amps/guitars you're using, but I can't get anything like a clean boost out of either of these pedals. Even at the lowest settings, I'm hearing coloration & dirt. I noticed that you mentioned the Xotic pedals. Have you tried the RC Booster WITH your OD pedal? They work together real well.
EDIT: forgot to answer your question. Got the Nobels couple years back from a small online business that went bankrupt and apparently stiffed a lot of people. I was lucky and got one of the last ODR1s that they shipped out before folding.
well the nobels is better than ts-9/808 for a boost/overdrive but i use a lovepedal twin 60 for the boost part it doesnt color tone at all. i have the rc and ac booster and think the nobel sounds better than the ac, the lovepedal wins over the rc, but as i said it doesnt add grit like the rc can(which i do like that tad bit of grit but my cot 50 does that better esp. with the twin 60) thanks at 40 bucks i will have to get a monkey.... and as far as the EQ goes i love the spectrum knob
Can you elaborate on that a little? That would be asesome if you could make these the same as the originals.
I have one (an original greeny) that is my main OD and is on 90% of the time probably. I use it for just a slight breakup and to warm things up a little. It's very transparent IMHO. I also bought mine online for $39, 2 or 3 years ago. Best gear purchase ever (for the money).
Drives me nuts that pedal manufacturers will change a good thing like that. Of course we guitar players never change anything...
The wires in the earliest of units that I know of were single conductors and were white, sometimes a black wire or two, not a colorful ribbon cable like the latter era Green and present Silver ODR-1's. When they were first starting out, I'm sure that they used whatever color was around, but, it was many single conductor wires.
I have a book that talks about the Silver to Green mod. In the book, the only change is due to the two controls being swapped as mentioned above. I suspect that it is due to the pots values being different. Who knows, maybe they were stuff'n the PCB incorrectly as compared to the original assembly drawing with the early units. After all, they were designed by a German Company and assembled in Korea. Sometimes doing things incorrectly yealds a bonus, again, who knows?
look at the history of sales the last one went for 103, and another went for around 75. ebay has some crazy prices sometimes too.the other week i saw a ce-1 go for 500 + but the seller was scalping, (yes i emailed the second highest bidder and said WTF and he said he got a second chance offer almost right after the auction ended and that he had bid high just seeing how stupid the seller thought he was) needless to say about 6 ce-1's showed up the next week sorry not trying to hijack the thread.....