Speaker Cabinet Ideas

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by ronnieanand, Sep 22, 2005.

  1. ronnieanand

    ronnieanand Member

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    Hi,
    I am building my own 2x12 cabinet. I have a few doubts.
    I play Blues and Hard Rock and a bit of Vintage Metal in the styles of Black Sabbath, Led Zep, SRV, Hendrix, etc..
    I dont have too much money, so I cannot afford the top of the line speakers. My budget is about $150 for the pair of speakers.
    Here are my requirements

    1. Choice of Speaker.
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    Look for a sound with tight bass and smooth mids and nice treble that is not very harsh. Overall it should be dark sounding with no muddiness.

    2. Choice of Wood.
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    I hear suggestions of Mahagony, Birch Plywood and Medium Density Fibre (MDF). I have no clue of which one would be good and what is the advantage of one over the other.

    3. Cabinet Styling.
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    I made one 1x12 with some Korean speaker. It was pretty good but there was too much bass and hardly any treble. The bass were also sounding boom boom something like you hear from a sub woofer when you play some Techno music. I hate this when it happens. I compensate this my EQing my pedal and my amp. I still think that it's because my cabinet is close backed and also it's pretty deep. So please suggest the cabinet styling and also a possible cabinet dimensions.

    Waiting for you replies. Thanks.
     
  2. 908SSP

    908SSP Supporting Member

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    I have tried a bunch and I like a vertical 2x12 with these dimensions 12 deep x 20.75 wide x 26.5 high in birch plywood, oval open back. Keeping it vertical keeps one speaker off the floor so the floor doesn't reinforce the bass. Don't use MDF in any case for a guitar cab. I am going to try a hardwood cab in those dimensions sometime soon. If possible borrow some of your buddy's speakers try as many as you can till you find the set you want in your cab.
     
  3. lhallam

    lhallam Member

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    Get Kevin's book on DIY cabs:

    London Power

    He's a big proponent of the de-tuned approach. There is plenty of useful info whether you go for a de-tune cab or not.

    BTW - making it youself doesn't necessarily make it much cheaper when you factor everything in.
     
  4. ronnieanand

    ronnieanand Member

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    I did a bit of Market survey and figured out Birch Plywood is not avaialble. Solid Birch is available but that 2" thick and looks huge. MDF and Pine Ply Wood is available. Can I choose any of these two. Else I have to try totally something else. Please help.
     
  5. RL in Fla

    RL in Fla Member

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    What did you use to make the 1x12 ?

    What grade is the pine ply ?
     
  6. ronnieanand

    ronnieanand Member

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    I used Particle Board to make the 1x12 speaker cabinet. I have no idea about the various grades in Plywood, I saw the 1" thick and 3/4" thick plywoods are available but no clues as what does this grade mean. Could you please tell me what grade should I look for.
     
  7. RL in Fla

    RL in Fla Member

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    This link will give you an idea as to what you're looking at , ideally Baltic Birch is the choice , but in your case , a furniture grade ply of any kind is better than construction grade . Even at that I'd use regular 3/4 pine before I'd use MDF , as long as you plan on discarding pieces with "edge voids" after you make all the cuts . On your side of the "pond" there should be some decent mahogany ply (luan) available .
     
  8. ronnieanand

    ronnieanand Member

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    I guess I will go ahead with the 3/4" Furniture Grade Pine Plywood then.
    I dont understand that "Edge Void". Could you please elaborate a bit more on that.
    I really appreciate your help.
     
  9. aeolian

    aeolian Member

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    Pine ply sounds interesting. Not readilly available over here. I wonder what is inside it. If it's all pine, or pine veners over fir or something else.

    If you can find it, solid pine is great for guitar speaker cabs. Light and resonant in the right frequencies. Unless your trying for that full stack big bottom thing. Then you want the strongest ply (usually birch) that you can find. Solid mahogany tends to warp in the sizes you need for a 2-12 unless it's been really well seasoned. But I've built a few cabs with Mahogany ply and it works great. Lighter in weight and somewhat warmer than birch.

    Things like MDF are great for hi-fi speakers because you don't want extraneous resonances. But for a guitar cab, it actually helps and adds richness and color to the tone to have some resonance in the right frequencies. The stiffer the wood, the higher the resonant frequency. Birch gets out of the funtamentals of the guitar and into the overtones. Also, the stiffer the cab, the less low frequency energy will be absorbed. That's why stacks are braced birch ply and tweed amps are solid pine. Pine resonates in the range of guitar tones.
     
  10. RL in Fla

    RL in Fla Member

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    Voids : Top pic is about 10mm wide , next pic about 90mm wide and extends
    "out of camera range" into the wood


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Ditto aeolian's comments , and MDF weighs a ton .
    If you were referring to this kind of "fiber board" ,

    [​IMG]

    I'd use it over MDF ( flame suit on for the purists , but he doesn't have the choices of baltic or 12"pine ) .
    Reasons : Stronger than MDF "pressed sawdust" , probably 1/3 the weight , and already "sealed" prior to whatever you do to it next .




    Ae , re: pine ply , I imagine it's "veneer core" just like the rest with pine veneer outside layers . I was thinking yesterday about tweed and blackface cabs being pine and then becoming pressboard/MDF/whatever . It may be that Leo made a fortuitous choice on pine because pine was the most inexpensive thing around . Early 50's when I was a kid , pine was for apple boxes unless it was "heart" and oak was the least acceptible thing you'd take for bought furniture . Did Marshall ever do pine or was it birch ply from day one ?
     
  11. ronnieanand

    ronnieanand Member

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    @RL. Thanks for those pics and explanation.

    I am not sure if such a kind of fibre board is available here. Let me check that out. If that's going to be stronger and lighter, then it would be desirable to have it. In case I dont get that fibre board what should be choice. Pine Plywood or MDFs. Solid Pine is also not available.
     
  12. casazera

    casazera Member

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    Hi ronnieanand,

    Try to use solid wood of any kind. Besides sounding better they hold fasteners and glue joints far better than MDF.

    If all else fails go with the Pine ply.

    Keep the cabinet depth to 10.5" for closed back and 12" for open back.

    You can use simple joints glued and fastened with screws, just make sure you use a wood strip glued and screwed on the inside of each corner to add strength.

    Once you build your cabinet and before covering it, test first with any speaker and listen for any vibrations or noises. If you detect any glue and fasten each area until they are gone.

    This link may give you some additional help as to the construction.

    Best of luck!




    http://tone-tools.com/hcraft.html
     
  13. ronnieanand

    ronnieanand Member

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    I bought the wood and got it cut in a Saw Mill. I didn't much choice of woods. So I went with 3/4" MDF for the Front and Sides. 1/2" Pine Wood Ply for the Top, Bottom and also for the back.

    The Dimensions are

    Front Face: 15" Wide and 30" Tall
    Sides: 12" at the Bottom and 10" at the Top. This will make the cabinet look slightly slanted.
    Back: I wanted to get the best of Open and Closed Cabinet, so I just planned to to put two 5" Strips on the back vertically with 5" gap along the whole length.
    I also got the round holes done for both the speakers.

    Hope this dimension is okay. In case something is wrong please let me know.

    Next thing is about joining the pieces together. Do you think, I can just glue and put some screws and will still be strong enough. Is it requires to make corner air tight. If I have to make it air tight, then what is the procedur. Anyway the cabinet is partially open at the back.

    Also should I do something to protect the wood like coating it with a wood primer or something.

    Tolex is not available here. Can I use some thin rexin which is like a leather imitation and paste it all over the board.
     
  14. ronnieanand

    ronnieanand Member

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    I made the cabinet with 12 deep x 20.75 wide x 26.5 high as per you guys suggestion. I used MDF and I covered the cabinet with Leather. The joints were all screwed properly and also held firmly with clams. I did a dirty job is putting the leather but over all it looks kinda okay but sounds awesome. The cabinet really rocks. I just wish that I did the leather pasting job okay, otherwise it would have looked great too.
     

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